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Old 12-31-1969, 04:00 PM
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Tamiya TT02 Thread

Old 12-31-1969, 04:00 PM
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Old 07-13-2021 | 09:37 AM
  #2806  
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I decided to paint my back up bodies

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Old 08-04-2021 | 03:15 PM
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I was a little mean to my hop-upped TT02 in the last 15 months. I used its parts for other projects. Then a club in the region announced a friendship race using the Tamiya Euro Cup rules and classes. So I had to complete the chassis again and also found a nicer solution for the rear body posts.





Now with added shocks and electronics:












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Old 08-05-2021 | 08:10 PM
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Shortest motor wires
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Old 08-09-2021 | 08:41 PM
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Hi all,

we've been running a TT class at our track for a few years now, and ive always raced my Porsche 911 RSR.
It has always been very loose on neutral, as in will spin out if i let off the throttle, which i thought was a TT02 trait. However I swapped with a fellow racer at the end of the day- Nissan GTR 58625 and it was planted.

Does anyone know why the difference? Cars are both stock except for bearings and his has oil shocks, New kit tyres on both and my drivetrain is very free.

Is it the shocks, 911 wide tyres or wheelbase? or maybe something else?

Thanks!


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Old 08-10-2021 | 05:07 AM
  #2810  
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Oil shocks could make a difference and what is the other guy running for diff fluid or grease?
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Old 08-10-2021 | 06:47 AM
  #2811  
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It’s a weight transfer issue. You need to reduce droop in front, so that when your off throttle, not too much weight is transferred to front causing rear to loose traction. You do this by adding spacers inside front shocks.
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Old 08-10-2021 | 08:56 AM
  #2812  
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Originally Posted by Monsta
Hi all,

we've been running a TT class at our track for a few years now, and ive always raced my Porsche 911 RSR.
It has always been very loose on neutral, as in will spin out if i let off the throttle, which i thought was a TT02 trait. However I swapped with a fellow racer at the end of the day- Nissan GTR 58625 and it was planted.

Does anyone know why the difference? Cars are both stock except for bearings and his has oil shocks, New kit tyres on both and my drivetrain is very free.

Is it the shocks, 911 wide tyres or wheelbase? or maybe something else?

Thanks!


PFA
For a box stock set up (friction shocks and all) I would say to switch because of the wheel base first making the biggest change. Any Tamiya body with a rear wing is also going to help a ton. The Raikiri is the best imo. The BRZ GT300, Ferrari 458, GTR, STI are all very decent or a 04 NSX lid if you can get ahold of one. Use a set of 26mm wheels as well, all the way around and see how it goes.
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Old 08-10-2021 | 09:56 AM
  #2813  
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Originally Posted by Raman
It’s a weight transfer issue. You need to reduce droop in front, so that when your off throttle, not too much weight is transferred to front causing rear to loose traction. You do this by adding spacers inside front shocks.
He is using the stock "spring holders", so adding spacers could be tricky 😉

​​​​​
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Old 08-10-2021 | 09:59 AM
  #2814  
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Originally Posted by Monsta
Hi all,

we've been running a TT class at our track for a few years now, and ive always raced my Porsche 911 RSR.
It has always been very loose on neutral, as in will spin out if i let off the throttle, which i thought was a TT02 trait. However I swapped with a fellow racer at the end of the day- Nissan GTR 58625 and it was planted.

Does anyone know why the difference? Cars are both stock except for bearings and his has oil shocks, New kit tyres on both and my drivetrain is very free.

Is it the shocks, 911 wide tyres or wheelbase? or maybe something else?

Thanks!


PFA
It is indeed the crappy stock shocks, the crappy stock tires and the short wheelbase as well!
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Old 08-10-2021 | 10:58 AM
  #2815  
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No matter what kind of racing you're talking about as has been said so often it's tires, tires & tires. I would listen to Raman he's a very experienced Tamiya driver and his suggestion may be an easy improvement.
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Old 08-10-2021 | 12:36 PM
  #2816  
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Originally Posted by DaSilva3525
For a box stock set up (friction shocks and all) I would say to switch because of the wheel base first making the biggest change. Any Tamiya body with a rear wing is also going to help a ton. The Raikiri is the best imo. The BRZ GT300, Ferrari 458, GTR, STI are all very decent or a 04 NSX lid if you can get ahold of one. Use a set of 26mm wheels as well, all the way around and see how it goes.
Well, normally I would agree, but in the case of this particular RSR body, I will disagree. I raced it for 2 years in VTA using the short wheelbase. This body was more planted, had more steering than any VTA body.

So If set up correctly, it will surprise you.
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Old 08-10-2021 | 12:39 PM
  #2817  
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Originally Posted by JJ100179
He is using the stock "spring holders", so adding spacers could be tricky 😉

​​​​​
Thanks I missed that. Ok well there is your issue right there, you can’t race a car with oil filled shocks using the pogo sticks lol.

If your track allows it, pick up some yeah racing shocks. if it has to be Tamiya pick up the plastic CVA or if you can spend a little more the TRF shocks. Either way, you need oil filled shocks
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Old 08-10-2021 | 03:15 PM
  #2818  
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Originally Posted by Raman
Well, normally I would agree, but in the case of this particular RSR body, I will disagree. I raced it for 2 years in VTA using the short wheelbase. This body was more planted, had more steering than any VTA body.

So If set up correctly, it will surprise you.
My suggestions were mainly based on box stock no options. I hear you though! The tt02’s are so capable with a good pair of hands.
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Old 08-10-2021 | 04:00 PM
  #2819  
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Originally Posted by DaSilva3525
My suggestions were mainly based on box stock no options. I hear you though! The tt02’s are so capable with a good pair of hands.
Those Pogo stix gotta go though lol.

Next would be slicks that come with the Porsche kit. I bet you they are using left over stock from TA01 days in the 90s. The rubber on them is junk.

The released the Super Grip radials on 30mm, pair those with the front 26 mm and it will change the car dramatically.

https://www.tamiyausa.com/shop/tires...-radial-tires/
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Old 08-10-2021 | 07:48 PM
  #2820  
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Hi all,

Thanks for all the info!

Originally Posted by MD
Oil shocks could make a difference and what is the other guy running for diff fluid or grease?
Nothing as far as im aware, me neither.

Originally Posted by MD
No matter what kind of racing you're talking about as has been said so often it's tires, tires & tires. I would listen to Raman he's a very experienced Tamiya driver and his suggestion may be an easy improvement.
I agree, 80% is tyres. i just hadn't realised they'd be using different tyre compounds/rubber in the TT line up

Originally Posted by Raman
Thanks I missed that. Ok well there is your issue right there, you can’t race a car with oil filled shocks using the pogo sticks lol.

If your track allows it, pick up some yeah racing shocks. if it has to be Tamiya pick up the plastic CVA or if you can spend a little more the TRF shocks. Either way, you need oil filled shocks
I actually like the way it looks bouncing around, look more realistic to me
They do allow it, ive ordered some Tamiya CVAs.

Originally Posted by DaSilva3525
My suggestions were mainly based on box stock no options. I hear you though! The tt02’s are so capable with a good pair of hands.
i have been running this car for years now and normally finish top 3. I just thought everyone had the same traction issue, as they always complain of lack of grip.I
I've just learnt to drive it like a proper 911, just annoying when i get it wrong and spin out.

Originally Posted by Raman
Those Pogo stix gotta go though lol.

Next would be slicks that come with the Porsche kit. I bet you they are using left over stock from TA01 days in the 90s. The rubber on them is junk.

The released the Super Grip radials on 30mm, pair those with the front 26 mm and it will change the car dramatically.

https://www.tamiyausa.com/shop/tires...-radial-tires/
These are the ones i have -Tamiya 50547 (SP547) Wide Racing Slick Tires w/inner Sponge (1 Pair).
I've ordered some Tamiya CVAs, do you mean reduce the rear droop to stop front weight transfer?
I'll try a set of the Super grips if this doesn't work. Edit - Seems the Super Grips are out of stock everywhere!

For those interested in how much wear you can get out of these, i ran the kit tyres for 3 years - Outdoor asphalt (32s lap), we have a large, low grip surface
By this stage it was basically on the carcass, and noticeably affected the top speed/rollout



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