There's a bit more to brushed motor failures than just gear ratio.
couple things to scratch off the list:.....

1. Is there any binding in the gear train? with motor removed from chassis, move the spur with your thumb and it should feel free and smooth
2. Have you replaced all bushings with bearings? the improvement in gear train efficiency cannot be understated....this should be the first "hopup" on EVERYBODIES list.
3. When running with your specified gear ratio, try using the "old spit trick". When the motor is hot to touch, leave some saliva on your finger and wipe it on the motor. If it dissipates slowly, its fine, if it sizzles away, the gear ratio is too tall (pinion is too big and/or spur is too small).
4. If you don't like the speed of the sport tuned motor, its better to upgrade to a lower turn motor for more RPM and then gear accordingly.

ok. I'm assuming they use either the TBLE-02 ESC or the Hobbywing 1060 ESC since they are running brushed motors in the Novice class? I still need to find lipos to run in the TCS novice class. Any suggestions??

new tt-02 is on the way....i have the hispeed gear setup coming as well.

with that said, i have a spare hackmoto 10.5t motor....can i run this on the stock ESC? if i can, what gearing should I go with.... will be run on a 2s lipo.

should i toss in a 1080 instead.....or would it be best just to buy a juststock 13.5t combo?


bashing at home and teaching my son how to drive RC's...no racing

Look what showed up today. Just a few spare and hop up parts. I also ordered another TT02 and radio so my kids and grandkids can have some fun with me too. The great thing about these Tamiya kits is the cost of them. I can get 4 kits plus radios for the cost of my Tekno eb48 2.0 I just sold. Lol. Thinking about ordering a third TT02.

yes 2S Lipo.

hi thanks for responding. Bearings are super smooth, drivetrain was also very smooth. And after I lost the motor I could hold my finger on there a couple of seconds. Spit wouldn’t have sizzled.

I suspect two things. My gearing is too tall . Or all that dust/dirt from this seasons pollen got in the motor ans ruined it. Or bad luck on motor

I really hope it’s not the gearing.

was hoping to see if anyone ran that gearing and could reassume me it’s not too much for the motor to handle.

Hello everyone! I'm getting back into R/C after a 20 year hiatus, and I am in the process of building my new TT-02R. I'm going to be running an XR10 Pro G2, along with a 13.5T G3R motor since a small non-carpeted oval near me has a 13.5 Blinky class that I would like to try out as soon as I get some a few weeks/months of practice time in. They also have a 13.5 "open" class that looks like fun, but I'll cross that bridge when I get back into the racing groove with blinky.

My question is to you guys/gals running a similar setup with success- what kind of pinion/spur combo should I start with, or maybe rather what would be a good FDR to shoot for? The R comes with the high-speed gear set, so I can run pretty much whatever I want to as far as brand/pitch goes, but there's a lot of conflicting info out there as far as what won't end up cooking my motor prematurely. Thanks in advance!

For 13.5 you should to be around 4.5 fdr .. I believe.. maybe start above that and keep an eye on Temps

so....i thought i had a spare low turn motor....but all i have is a 27t 540 and 1060 esc. I don't wanna bother with that setup, so i'm just going brushless.

im ordering a 10BL120 and a Surpass Rocket 9.5t motor. I'll be running on a 5200mah 120c 2s.

so, the question is....what gearing should be I be running? i have the tamiya aluminum motor mount and the high speed gear set......should I change over to 48p or 64p?

i want to order stuff today, as i just got my supra kit yesterday and the rest of the parts should show up today (shocks, center shaft, servo, shims, etc...)

I'm pretty sure the TBLE-02 comes with the TT02 kits, so it's probably the most common in that class. People have commented that the battery cutoff voltage is too low for lipos because it's calibrated for LiFE batteries. But you can probably run this car on a 5000-6000mah battery for over 30 mins, so it's not an issue when racing.

Excellent, thank you. I believe I saw when researching it should theoretically be right around there. I do plan on starting a bit above that and seeing how it goes from there, will certainly keep an eye on the temps of course.

I plan on running the Hobbywing 1060 esc. I know they are prone to limp mode. My question is will putting a glitch buster at the reciever do the same effect as if I solder a cap onto the battery wires on the ESC?? I'm trying to prevent the limp mode. I'll be running a normal digital servo (non HV) on 5v (ESC) and a torque tuned motor. Thanks

The 1060's manual specifies the BEC at 6V/3A, not 5V.
If you plug a glitch buster to the receiver, it will effect the output of the BEC (being more resistant to peak loads). Adding a cap to the battery wires has an influence on the input side of BEC/ESC.
​​​​I assume that limp mode issues are not directly associated with the BEC overloaded, its more a problem of an unstable input voltage because of motor peak loads. A cap parallel to the battery can improve and avoid this (cap can instantly deliver the needed high amps)
So, adding a glitch buster is not really the same as adding a battery cap.
​​​​​

thanks for the info. I emailed Hobbywing directly and they said there was a misprint on the info for the 1060 brushed ESC. It is rated for 5V/2A. Atleast that's what I was told directly from Hobbywing. So I guess I'll put a cap in parallel on the ESC power wires.

I've run a ton of 1060's with motors down to 13T with Savox servos and Lipos and have never had an issue with one going into limp mode.