My son’s truggy has developed a grinding noise from the rear gearbox under acceleration.

I’ve ordered the metal gears in anticipation. Will swap out front and back gears with metal and install the aftermarket bearings while I have it all apart.

The kids have really taking a liking to these little buggers. And I’ve noticed their driving skills have improved dramatically over the past few months.

Still only driving at throttle down to setting 3. Kids and I feel that they’re still plenty fast. Maybe after the new year we’ll move the mark up to 4.

May convert the daughter’s to a buggy. If I do, I’ll check with the boy before I sent 3 bodies to be professionally painted in a matching theme.

finally finished the conversion to a flat mount servo.

That looks interesting.

Any info on name/manufacturer of the truck with a blue body, yellow wheels and white wing?

I would guess it’s LC racing.

That is what you Americans would know as a Duratrax Vendetta ST

Standard ST shell, Gecko foams, Phat Bodies wing.

Hope that helps?

So I tore apart my son’s 14T. It was the spur gear.

The plastic cover over the drive shaft definitely is the culprit. So I trimmed it back, swapped out for new bearings in the rear end and accidently ordered a larger spur that I had to put in. Ordered more of the factory size and they are on the way.

I played with the idea of removing the battery compartment and just using Velcro for the lipos. But then I got to thinking. As much flex as the chassis has now, wouldn’t it be worse if I removed the brace across the battery? Or is the flex really coming from the rear end and not the entire chassis?

I still have to replace the bearings set and install the metal gear in my daughter’s 14T. I’ll also trim back the shaft cover on hers and mine while I’m at it.

Here’s the work I did. You can see there definitely more room between the cover and bearing now. It was nearly kissing before.

c0sie , I hate the engine mount system as well. Mine is rounded after dropping in a larger motor. Can we replace that part? Or do we have to get a new chassis to use the new plate?

Hey Teslas,

Motor mount p/n is 21531. You can buy this part, but note that it is sided! One end has a slightly longer length to the first "notch" than the other

Thanks c0sie, but how do I remove the old mounting plate so I could put in a new one?
Thanks

Pin hole in chassis, directly underneath the plate

Thanks @c0sie, one more question, that hole is pretty tiny. What do you recommend I use to pop out the plate?

Try something like a 1mm drill bit maybe? Or a paper clip?

Happy 2021!

Just sharing findings for those looking for motor alternative.
So far, after 12 packs or so on the above motor setup:
Motor runs cool even 20-30minute run on a 2s 2500mah 80c burst pack. Or sometimes a 1000mah 2s for lighter weight.
70 spur, 19t pinion, 3.684 vs 3.625 stock.
32mm x 64mm foams vs 30mm x 72mm stock,
Definitely more torque n acceleration.

Motor is almost 95g vs 60something stock.
Am waiting on 1500 2s packs which might help balance as i also moved the esc opposite the motor, behind the battery so i also noticed handling improved significantly, getting better grip, hth

Was waiting to pick one of these up but couldn't find any in stock for a while... Looks like I just bought DJJOHNR's car from ebay. no real plans except to bash and maybe go to a turf indoor track about 40mins away. Just skimmed this thread and lots of good info. Will post picks and such.