c0sie

Same here in the UK, I haven't seen stock of these in months, and they aren't due here till late October?

Sandfreak

iTrader: (40)

Waiting for race day.

Sandfreak

iTrader: (40)

If you're on FB check here. They pop up for sale once and a while.
https://www.facebook.com/groups/1002...283/?ref=share

v1911

iTrader: (16)

Many of the suppliers in the US were showing late August. That obviously has passed. Hoping for end of the month, but October may be more realistic.

Strongbox18

Ill check it out! Thank you

Vmax

iTrader: (19)

I picked up the factory team spring sets. From the way I thought I understood the description, yellow is stiffest and black is softest. The fronts seem to follow this, but the for the rears the green seems softest. Anyone else notice this or is it just me?

v1911

iTrader: (16)

Amain hit me with an IN STOCK email. I picked up my buggy. Can't wait to finally join in with the kids. But Dad's get the cool hop ups.

RazorRC

iTrader: (5)

Yeah, I think there's something weird with the labeling. It's been awhile since I was messing with springs, but I recall something similar.

RazorRC

iTrader: (5)

Per the Associated springs, they go from (stiffest->softest):

Front: Black, Green, Yellow
Rear: Yellow, Green, Black


I think it's wrong. Some weird stuff I noticed -- my buggy came with rear Black springs all the way around. Based on what I've measured with my scale, I get:

(Stiff->soft)
Front springs: Yellow Green Black
Rear springs: Yellow Black Green

So I think your findings are correct.

v1911

iTrader: (16)

So in an effort to find a battery that would fit and provide extended run times, I found this:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-...k-5177/p180515

unfortunately I didn’t pay close enough attention to the dimensions. It is slightly too long to properly fit in the battery compartment and still use both the pins on the battery strap.

Going back to the Gens Ace 1800mah battery.

v1911

iTrader: (16)

So I decided to rebuild the 14b and install the parts I had purchased. Sounded simple enough.

Maybe I’m using the wrong size hex. But by the time I made it to removing the rear wing, 2 of the screws felt stripped. As in the hex had been rounded out. Or my driver had been shaved down enough to cause it not to be able to turn the screws.

Could be the cheap 1.5mm Hobbypark driver I was using? Or possibly the wrong size all together?

Second hiccup - Have 3 screws left over. The heck?!

I went back over ever inch of the car. I didn’t see where I could have missed replacing 3 screws.

Third hiccup - lost one of the screws used to secure the stand the ESC resides on. The 2 screws used for it are easily distinguished by their longer length compared to almost ever other screw in the kit. Somehow one was lost.

I installed the replacement bearings to avoid issues. Was able to swap out the front shock tower. Installed the blue aluminum wheel hexes.

Need to solder deans plugs on my Hobbywing ESC. And having a hard time swallowing $21 for each set of aluminum parts for the shocks. I need 2. So $42 for parts for the shocks?! Also need to order an additional metal gear set. Silly me only ordered 1.

But after getting everything back together, lubing the bearing and applying Tamiya cera-grease to the gears, it rolls really smoothly.

They couldn’t have released a Team kit and saved me the hassle? Eh, I’d have still have to had stripped it all down to install better bearing anyways.

Edit - order a set of MIP hex drivers. Hopefully that remedies things.

c0sie

The screws in the Reflex 14 are cheese, and the plastic is so soft its very easy to strip the plastic out so be careful when re-tightening!

The centre diff bearings are not the issue. I'll put good money on it that chassis flex and the centre shaft cover are the cause of all the centre diff bearing failures (read my comments under the photo of the wheels/tyres here: https://www.ukmicrorc.co.uk/forum/fo...x-rc14b-review). The chassis flex comes from the front and rear lower gear box housings - the main chassis itself is longitudinally solid, but has a lot of latitudinal flex, however where the gearbox lowers are met by the main centre bulk of the chassis there is a lot of flex that once bolted together still remains in the rear of the car mainly.

MIP drivers are fantastic, you'll love them!

I've used the stock shocks, indoors on carpet, since May and they have been faultless - they are a great design. I definitely think the metal gear-set for the diffs are a must though - because the plastics generally are so soft it is SO easy to warp the diff gear when tightening the screws down, and the diff cover/gear will warp really easily if you tighten the gear down too tight, or have the diff full of fluid.

v1911

iTrader: (16)

I enjoyed your review of the 14b.

I had noticed that after just 1 pack through the car, the shaft cover had indications of rubbing where it connects to the center diff. I wonder if maybe trimming that back just a hair would suffice.

Ive yet to get it out to my local BMX track. Thankfully it it well maintained and there is little dust on the track.

As with my children’s cars, I’ve dialed my throttle back to just 5. Still plenty quick for me at that setting. Of course when I want to clear the doubles, I’ll crank it up. Ha!

v1911

iTrader: (16)

So the front use a universal driveshaft. But the rear are dog bones. I wonder what the reasoning behind that was. And has anyone seen the rear universals offered?

Update with the hex drivers: The MIP drivers work beautifully. It’s incredible how well they fit and such a feeling of security while using them. Definitely a worthwhile investment!

richard0714

iTrader: (26)

I read through all 41 pages after purchasing my 14t but I still have some questions. I bought the LC Racing off-road truggy tires (not the rally tires) and they got the motor HOT after about only 5 minutes. Should I put in the other spur gear or install a fan or something? Is there a better motor that fits without modifications? Is there a battery with enough mAh that’s also small enough to fit where I can mount the ESC on the chassis? I race on high grip clay and see most of you all run on carpet so I’m trying to find what works but it’s been tricky.