Is it pushing out of a turn or into a turn?

Something to try if you need more steering is our new adjustable ackermann spindles and plates. Much more steering than our stock spindles in every area of the track. They really give a more direct, connected feel versus stock without being too aggressive. In some ways I actually find them more forgiving to drive because I'm no longer over cranking the radio wheel to get my car in or around a turn. If you do try them I'd to start with the C plates and tune from there.

part number?

https://www.teknorc.com/shop/tkr6669...r6553x-type-c/

We have in our possession an EB410... it started life as a .1, but is set up with a handful of the .2 parts already. I'm going to follow the .2 thread as it seems more like the thing to do at this point, and because we will likely add .2 parts instead of replacing anything with the .1 equivalent.
For those of you that have experience with both versions, or have upgraded, that are your opinions on the new steering parts and ackerman plates? Which would be a good start for outdoor dirt tracks, and for my son and I who are just making the transition to 4wd?
I have basically the same question about the shocks, or more specifically the new pistons.... I will likely be rebuilding a set of shocks and am not entirely sure what to do in that regard...
Thanks for any replies.

It depends on if the seal cartridge has the MIP spacer mod done or not. The 410.2 shocks come with a spacer between the Xrings that the OG buggy did not.

New to the forum, but old time RC Truck basher. After owning Traxxas TMaxx, HPI Savage 25 and HPI Savage XS Flux (yeah all back in the late 2000s), I want to get something more after 11 year break from the hobby.

I'm highly considering picking up a EB410.2, It's a good looking rig, setup looks solid, reviews have been great. And I plan to buy everything in one shot including spares. I have a few questions before I place my order....

What are the most common wear parts?
What are the first parts to break when:
1) a noob like me is pushing hard on the clay track
2) an old truck basher like me runs this rig on the streets, backyard and old bashing spots
What are the "must have upgrades to improve durability and reliability?

Thanks!

See answers in red
QUOTE=MT75;15693223]New to the forum, but old time RC Truck basher. After owning Traxxas TMaxx, HPI Savage 25 and HPI Savage XS Flux (yeah all back in the late 2000s), I want to get something more after 11 year break from the hobby.

I'm highly considering picking up a EB410.2, It's a good looking rig, setup looks solid, reviews have been great. And I plan to buy everything in one shot including spares. I have a few questions before I place my order....

What are the most common wear parts? Shock orings
What are the first parts to break when:
1) a noob like me is pushing hard on the clay track I had very hard, horrible crashes, only the rear pin holding the wheel bearing carrier spread and the pin fell out. I did not break anything yet.
2) an old truck basher like me runs this rig on the streets, backyard and old bashing spots
What are the "must have upgrades to improve durability and reliability? Get a basher or ET and put on SCT tires.

Thanks![/QUOTE]

Does anyone know where I can find a good starting set-up for the .1 on indoor turf? The guy at the shop told me to use pro-line pyramids front/rear.. if you could point me to an alternative tire combo just so I have some options I'd appreciate it alot as well...

So I got to debut my Eb410.2 this week. I ran 2 heats and a Main and in that time 2 of my shocks came apart. The set screw at the top of the shock shaft had back it self out. When I went to rebuild my shocks a day later I notice that the other two shocks were beginning to do the same thing. I'm pretty sure I locktighted them when I built it. Anybody else have this happen?

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I run cactus rear in blue or yellow compound with Wedge LP 4wd fronts. Setup works great for my driving style and lasts decently long.

I would try Schumacher Yellow Dart rears and Cactus Fusion fronts. If the pile is short, Yellow Cactus rear could be worth a try (same Cactus Fusion on front)

The big things setup wise I found with mine on high grip surfaces:

Thick roll bars front and rear (1.9 front, 1.8 rear)
Super low ride height (12-13mm)
Heavy diff oils (15-20k Front, 500k centre, 10-20k rear)
Mount rear shocks on the front (like the .2)
No rear chassis brace (You run the risk of bending the chassis so it’s at your own risk but I find this makes a good tuning aid. also works well on bumpy Astro tracks)
minimal front kick up (really helps with controlling dive under breaking)

Can someone throw something in here, I’ve been racing 1/8 scale for years and just jumping in to1/10. I have a new Tekno EB420.2 I’m good with it but the gearing has me stuck. I have the Exotex 81T 48P spur with a 20T 48P pinion and then an a Exotex 53T 32P spur with a 13T 32P pinion. I’m thinking 32P will have less chance of stripping and being stronger but why am I seeing so many with 81–20 in the 48 Pitch?

If you do not let it dry for 24hrs before assembling the shocks, I imagine the oil in the shock would mess with the dry time if it even will dry at that point.
I have had what you mentioned happened once but I have also put too much lock tite on and snapped the piston retaining screw and believe me that will frustrate you for sure. And if you do find them being too tight from lock tite then heat up the shaft slightly and this usually softens the locktite and makes it easy to unscrew again.

For me I found its a balance of not too much and just enough.

I just picked up a couple eb410s this weekend. Are there any must have upgrades to make it a 410.2 or are they not work upgrading? Thank you.

i lawn darted my eb410 into the backside of a lander twice this weekend and both times broke a 3mm pin.
swapped to the newer ones and had no issues the rest of the day...i may have just been unlucky but id say the new pins, pills and arms are good to have on hand IMO