darryl1980

iTrader: (15)

I am picking up a very good used eb410 from a local guy today I am excited to get it will post pics on here when I get it home with me

Djr8505

Ill give this a shot for our next race Sunday and see how things turn out. Just to clarify you mean to turn the transponder so it is oriented vertically as opposed to mounting horizontally on the chassis.

sea1swk

Yep, works good.

ridgeracer

iTrader: (4)

Hi;
Can someone please measure the length of the inner hinge pins for me ?
Want to see if I can use the arms on my old Durango.

Thanks

RC*PHREAK

iTrader: (146)

i bought the universals and had read that certain batches had issues with the drive pins? well sure enough, i lost a drive pin on a rear universal. is tekno taking care of this?

Venom93cobra

What diff fluid did everybody start with? I went with F30 C30 R15 to start with. I haven't ran it yet but I can't wait to see how it feels.

sea1swk

For my eb410.2, picked up a TKR6553X - Adjustable Ackermann Spindles and TKR6669A - Spindle Arms Type A. It rubbed bad. +1 Hex, AE b64/b74 front rims. Went to a ball that was lower to the the Spindle arm, AE equivalent to the TKR6210, then took out the spacer under the Spindle Arm. Still Rubs. Had to go back to stock. Anyone get these to work?

Also weight. I'm running a skinny battery and pucks. I'm still about 150g over min weight. Anyone know what actually reduces the weight. Real data. I know titanium upper screws would lower the weight. But I better that is something silly like 5g for $100 of screws. Plastic gears in the 3 diffs are good for 9g per diff. But last time I ran those, did not get 1 month before it would eat them. I run indoor clay. I bet the carpet guys would not make it 1 race with 13.5.

todb

iTrader: (68)

Shorty servo, and small esc, lighrweight body really helped out. All the other light weight stuff works but it comes in small amounts of lost weight.

sea1swk

Forgot about the body. Forget how much, but if I remember, it was significant. To me, the only ESC and servo for the buggy would be a:

Hobbywing Xerun XR10 Pro G2 160A Sensored Brushless ESC (can survive being plugged in backwards, and works well)
Only servo for me is a ProTek. I run the smaller one, forget the model. (High quality and the smaller one works like the bigger ones I run in truggy and 4x4 sct).

Anyone actually weight the shock tower difference with carbon fiber? Hard to believe it is anything significant.

todb

iTrader: (68)

I think protek makes a really good shorty servo. I did mess up the plastic gears in the center diff, but the front an ld rears diff were very reliable for me. Sorry they didn't work out for you. And that HW esc is a good choice. I had mine at 1665 with a full size esc, but I had all CF and titanium

Matthew_Armeni

iTrader: (31)

Even with +1 hexes I find the AE wheels a little narrow, so I can see how they might rub. I believe Tebo runs Exotek +3 in front, and Joe runs PL Xray front wheels, which are fairly wide. Also, what carriers are you running?

To reduce weight - lightweight body and wing for sure, various aluminum/titanium screws and aluminum nuts are easy items. Picking the lightest motor, esc, rx, and a light LP servo can help a lot. Running short wires, some guys go to 14 gauge wires as well. There are titanium upper shock mounts and titanium lower shock screws. Titanium turnbuckles (slightly shorter than kit length), titanium hingepins, titanium ballstuds. All the carbon parts, specifically the rear tower with built in camber links. Aluminum axles, MIP center driveline, aluminum screws holding the ring gear to the diff case, and plastic internal diff gears are great ways to reduce rotating mass (like you said though, you lose durability with the plastic gear, but if you get the car light enough then it will be easier on the gears). There are also some plastic parts that aren't needed to run the car (rear braces for example) and others that can be shaved down.
It's really not that hard to get the car under 1613, especially if you use a lightweight battery, it's just not that cheap. I got mine well under 1613 without using a lightweight pack (or the lightweight body IIRC), and I'm pretty sure I could probably get it to 2wd minimum weight if I really wanted to, but there's not much of a reason to. The car seams to handle best at somewhere around 1620-1650 for 13.5 and most of our drivers that run mod prefer to be around or above 1700.

sea1swk

15° carriers, stock eb410.2. You like different, indoor high-bite clay? Thanks for all the ideas.

Funkydrummer1

iTrader: (7)

hey all. So its about time to rebuild the diffs on my eb. I used the kit diff oils which are 15 30 10.. My boy races, Im just the mechanic now..lol. These weights didn't seem that bad at all, but I dont have any other diff setups to refer from. I did have the 1st gen eb but I don't remember my diff numbers. I did have 2 or 3 different setups but I sold it and I cant find my setup notes anywhere...
Going over some setups online,, it seems like guys are going for the most part,, a bit lighter..
We run 13.5 on med high bite ( but not too often high) clay track thats about 15 second laps. Seems like I'm getting about 50% more wear up front. Which I know is somewhat common for wheeler. Im thinking Im a bit too high up front.
Maybe 10 30 7? Any suggestions??

Matthew_Armeni

iTrader: (31)

If you're front tires are wearing out too fast you can go up in the center diff. Try 15/50/10. You should notice less front wear, more punch out of turns, and a little more push into turns. Other options to get less front tire wear are less front droop, more anti-squat, stiffer rear spring, softer front spring. I would try thicker center before all those other options though.

Funkydrummer1

iTrader: (7)

So I have a comfortable suspension package. Its pretty much where he likes it between the 2 tracks we race. Its the same setup with maybe a mm or 2 ride height adjustments and a couple other things. I have just enough steering with it, although it does push maybe a tinge more than I would like. Ive had 4wd buggies that were better out of corners. But overall, Im a Tekno guy. Just our preference. Maybe do your suggestion but a softer front spring. I could go for that. Were not struggling to ear any jumps between the 2 tracks right now. So less lift wouldn't be a bad thing.