Anybody know the diameter of the "other" holes on the 1.8mm & 1.7mm pistons?
I am just trying to figure out where the new ET410.2 pistons fit in on a damping scale.

Will a castle 1410 series motor fit? It’s a 550 size can.

Yes, those 1410 Castle Creations motors will fit nicely. They are only 52mm long. I run a 3652 Hobbywing G2 motor and still have room for larger ESC meant for 1/8 scale platforms.

Looking for some guidance on my et410.2, just built and setting it up to the box setup.

In the rear when I set it to a 23mm ride height, at full suspension extension (with droop already set) my rear springs are ~1/4” short of the collar. What am I doing wrong? I fear the answer is right in front of my face, but I’m missing it.

any help would be greatly appreciated.

I can almost guarantee you your Red springs will "settle down", or "break in" after awhile. How much? I don't know. I had the same issue on the ET410 with the TKR7245 Yellow 2.82 rate springs trying to get a 27mm ride height. The only way for me to get the ride height I wanted and have the springs touching the adjustment collars was to use the Green springs. That's okay for me, and my situation as I run on a rougher track/terrain.

How's the ET401.2 coming along? So far those who had the 410 went to 410.2 does it worth the extra money?

You asking if upgrading from a et410 to a et410.2? Yes.
- 3.5 hing pins are a lot stronger. So that means the new pills and swing arms with 3.5 holes.
- Reinforcement for the front and rear bulkheads, Aluminum Front and Rear Camber Plates w/ Bulkhead Brace.
- Stronger and better wing mount
- Better spindles and hubs
- Stronger A, B, C, D blocks'
- Better designed rear shock in front the rear shock tower setup.
- Upgraded Shock guts.

What is lame, I purchased a eb410.2 and made a et410.2, before the et410.2 was released.

All set up for testing/practice evening at the track tonight. It’s been 105-110 all week ..HOT. Still need to install transponder, waiting on the mailman.lol. Going to start with the kit set up and see what happens. HW 6.5 with a 19t pinion I might need to try a 17t but it’s a fairly large fast track.

depends on what mods you made to the ET. Many like me have done the 3.5mm hinge pins and rear shock forward mods already. I bought an ET410.2 kit mainly for spare parts but noticed several parts that I retrofitted for strength or for maintainability. So assuming those two mods have been done here is I’d what I added to the original ET to update it with V.2 parts. (I should mention I still have several original SCT410 but much upgraded with V.3 parts that mostly made it easier to maintain)

Used the V.2 rear A arms these are designed for the shock forward location and provides easy access to the droop screw for quick adjustment. Of course if you prefer time consuming and messy removing shocks disassembling them putting limiters in them rebuilding them and remounting the shock to change the droop then that won’t be of value to you - I don’t I prefer a simple hex wrench and a turn of a screw.

Used the V.2 front camber plate some good and bad here. the good: more roll center adjustment and the shock Tower is more securely attached the the gearbox. The bad news is you now have to remove the camber plate to remove the front diff. I have Kevlar shock towers so didn’t need the new rear camber plate but it looked to be an improvement with more adjustability then the original.

Used the V.2 steering assembly, this is nearly identical to the original except the screws connecting the pivot arms to the steering rack go in from the top instead of from the bottom. This allows for a quick check to make sure they are tight and do not come out like mine did.

The shocks are identical except for the positions, springs and rear oil. With the virus thing I here haven’t been able to get to the track to test but reading some of the other posts it may be open to debate as to whether these are better

Used the V.2 LRC adjustable hubs as I like to play with the roll center. But if
you are using Stadium Truck tires be sure to READ and follow the directions or you may end up with a serious binding.

i did not use the new front spindles as I plan on using Stadium Truck tires because according to the manual the additional Ackerman adjustment of those spindles is incompatible with those tires. .

final thing I would use is the new wing mounting kit. It looks much better than the original. I’ve converted mine to 2WD SCT so I don’t use the wing.

I’m certain these few parts cost a lot lead than a new kit.

Love the C10 shell as it makes a nice change from the current truggy shells. Got any side pictures? Who makes it?

The D plate fits ST wheels with no option parts and all of the plates are different than the one-piece spindles so right away you have 2 options with the truck, D plate or one piece spindle. The C,B, and A plate push the mounting point into the wheel (further away from the center of the car) 1mm at a time. So by running +1, +2, or +3 hexes you can fit more of the plates. The C plate will actually work when using the stock hex but will cause the steering rod end to rub the wheel slightly.
I would definitely suggest that everyone try the new spindles and the 18° LRC carriers. To me, it was the biggest handling change we made on the truck. The spindles are also great on the buggy as well, gives the buggy so much more usable steering.

That's the Proline 1972 Chevy C-10 body, PN:3251-00. https://www.prolineracing.com/bodies...clear-body.asp

I have 2. The black out window was on my ET410(rear mounted shocks). Clear window is on the new ET410.2. There is some cutting to do to clear the rear shocks.

Tekno indicates they may not make the +2 offset because it would make the car too wide with ST tires. I didn’t notice the different part numbers visually I didn’t notice a difference I’ll have to go back and segregate them in my parts box