Tamiya M-08
#241
Tech Rookie
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 5
I raced the M-08 again last Friday - at my local club (Kettering) - we run the same grey carpet as West Bridgeford. Whilst we do allow different on-road classes to run - the predominant class last week was 1-10th TC - I was the lone Tamiya 'M' chassis car in the qualifying - but was joined by an M-07 in the finals when the driver broke his new touring car. Adam's M-07 is a well sorted car & is laden with upgrades - my M-08 is 100% stock. I had been trying some of Adam's tyres during the heats but resorted to using the treaded Pit Shimizu tyres (Soft rear & Hard front) in the finals - when the grip comes up, these seem to give a good balance between rear end grip & front end bite. It certainly isn't as easy to drive as the front drive car & you have to have your wits about you when accelerating - but in the end our quickest laps were just 1-10th sec apart (in favour of the M-07). The good thing is that I can see there is loads of scope for improvement - the kit supplied springs are not only too soft, but also too long - so you end up putting the spring in compression when setting ride height & pre-load - affecting L/R rate.
#243
Front uprights on this car are it’s official week point. The decision to make it with the insert has made for a very weak upright. There is very little material on the bottom and one tap and it breaks.. I just fixed the left side and right side broke within one lap.
One mistake I may be making is that I am drilling the hole out for the grub screw.. which is weakening it further. Looking at the manual, it does not say to drill it out!
I'm going to try the M07 version which are solid. I don’t know what the caster angle is on those but they will have to do.
One mistake I may be making is that I am drilling the hole out for the grub screw.. which is weakening it further. Looking at the manual, it does not say to drill it out!
I'm going to try the M07 version which are solid. I don’t know what the caster angle is on those but they will have to do.
Last edited by Raman; 10-23-2019 at 08:39 PM.
#244
That being said I have broken a few myself. And I agree it is the weakest part of the car. Light contact can cause them to break or develop hairline cracks that introduce suspension slop. It’s really my only complaint about the kit other than the omission of sway bars, which I feel like are an absolute must for anything other then lower grip asphalt.
They make a carbon reinforced upright for the M-07 that appears to be a close fit. Part # 54810. I haven’t tried them yet but a quick comparison makes it look like the only difference is the way they used the hinge pin inserts on the m-08 version. I’ll take some good measurements and post any geometry differences if anyone is interested.
The car is really fun to drive. Always puts a smile on my face.
#246
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (1)
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 98
From: Berkley, MI.
The manual does call out a 2.5mm hole drilled for the grub screw. Upper left hand corner of page 13 near step 25. I am thinking that NOT drilling well could actually put stress on the part in that area from the grub screw spreading it out.
That being said I have broken a few myself. And I agree it is the weakest part of the car. Light contact can cause them to break or develop hairline cracks that introduce suspension slop. It’s really my only complaint about the kit other than the omission of sway bars, which I feel like are an absolute must for anything other then lower grip asphalt.
They make a carbon reinforced upright for the M-07 that appears to be a close fit. Part # 54810. I haven’t tried them yet but a quick comparison makes it look like the only difference is the way they used the hinge pin inserts on the m-08 version. I’ll take some good measurements and post any geometry differences if anyone is interested.
The car is really fun to drive. Always puts a smile on my face.
That being said I have broken a few myself. And I agree it is the weakest part of the car. Light contact can cause them to break or develop hairline cracks that introduce suspension slop. It’s really my only complaint about the kit other than the omission of sway bars, which I feel like are an absolute must for anything other then lower grip asphalt.
They make a carbon reinforced upright for the M-07 that appears to be a close fit. Part # 54810. I haven’t tried them yet but a quick comparison makes it look like the only difference is the way they used the hinge pin inserts on the m-08 version. I’ll take some good measurements and post any geometry differences if anyone is interested.
The car is really fun to drive. Always puts a smile on my face.

#247
M07 is zero degree caster, that's the reason why M08 has its own. All other Suspension parts are M07. Still hoping 3 racing or exotek make some solid aluminum ones. Why Tamiya chose such a weird design, is something I will never understand. From the first first look in the manual I knew I should order enough spare parts wit the kit...
#248
If you use the M07 front hub (0 degrees and more durable), you will need to use the bottom caster plate option from 4 degrees to 6 degrees. This will give you arm sweep angle to achieve the caster, which may or may not work for your driving style.
The M08 C-block has the stupid inserts for caster (giving 4 or 5 degrees), but retains the arm at a flat angle. The inserts are a weak point for durability and excessive slop.
The M08 C-block has the stupid inserts for caster (giving 4 or 5 degrees), but retains the arm at a flat angle. The inserts are a weak point for durability and excessive slop.
#251
#253
I am guessing Tamiya went with this insert design because it was much cheaper than investing in a brand new mold for what is essentially the same part. If that keeps the price of the kit lower then great, but it complicates assembly and reduces durability. I can live with the former but the latter ends up costing me more in the long run. I don’t know for certain that this is why Tamiya went this way but I cannot think of any other logical reason.
Hopefully they come out with an aluminum part or at the bare minimum a carbon reinforced version of the “C” parts tree.
Hopefully they come out with an aluminum part or at the bare minimum a carbon reinforced version of the “C” parts tree.
#254
The amount of design that went into creating a hole on the C hub to accept an insert with 4° caster, could have simply been applied to a hole at 4° On the C hub.
This is classic Tamiya over engineering a part.. intention is good but application is bad
This is classic Tamiya over engineering a part.. intention is good but application is bad



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