no, if you want a box for 1/8 GT you need an offroad box. If you want one that does all including GT you need a Universal box. And if you want to run onroad 1/10, you will still need to readjust the offset and aligning pins.

And the 1/10 shaft driven onroad cars requires a special starter box.

I too raised the wheel with small 1 mm shims this does help. But anything pass 2mm and the belt will hit the top plate.

Anyone come up with an alternate way to start a .09 Sirio in the Spada 09?

It also has protek box

I don't see one they offer that's intended for 1/12 - do you know the model by any chance?

just get a roto start system.

If you are reacting to the Spada then do your homework! A roto start is bigger than that engine.
If you are reacting to the topicstarter, there is a reason why racing engines need a starterbox, it all has to do with weight and reduction of resistance.

I will say it again, this forum is mainly with racers, racers have other needs than bashers like you

I had one with my old Spada - but it's not something you can buy off the shelf. It is a very unique, impossible to find system called "HandyStart" - - and I was dumb enough to sell it with my last one, not thinking I'd ever get another Spada. I went through hell trying to use a starter box before I got it ... I may have to modify it somehow to get the flywheel to protrude further down so it makes consistent contact. As far as I know, no one else produces anything like this that'd work with the .09 engine.

Mugen r3 on road start box…all you will ever need for any 10 and 8 scale on road never had any problem turning over brand new tight engines…get one and you won’t regret…if I had to make a second choice it would be a hudy box…which ever one you can get the cheapest bc the both get the job done well

The "old" starter boxes are the best in my opinion if you can find them (ebay and sometimes they pop up on here for sale). Ideally with the dual motors they last forever.

The LRP and Team Associated use a much harder wheel, and seem to last forever. Never used a Protek but people complain the wheel is too soft and they wear out quickly.

I had a helluva tough time starting my old Spada with a Kyosho Multistart - the one they recommend. The flywheel was just impossible to line up without modifying the chassis to make it protrude a little more.

I've since picked up an NIB Spada on impulse...I'll build it, but I'm not sure I'd be brave enough to run it. That's how I found another HandyStart roto system for it - that was the only way I was able to start it consistently.

I recently built a sweet new re-re Kyosho Plazma MKIII Limited, & hit an invisible drain pipe on top of a parking garage on its 1st run. Thrashed the thing. My old Spada chassis looked like I ran nails over it after just a few runs.There's just nowhere to drive 1/12 indoors or a smooth enough track., & my "modern" Kyosho Plazma RA gets a few laps at the tennis court when I have time. With something like a Spada where you practically have to go to Japan to find parts...I have a big collection of vintage pan-cars that just sit on the shelf & look pretty.

btw, If you've found a track that has a racing class for 4WD 1/12 .09 pan-cars anywhere on earth I would love to know about it!

I'm just ranting because I'm laid up after surgery & bored, but I really believe it is this attitude that contributes at least in part to why these tracks are nearly extinct in the US.

I think there are more 1/12 "bashers" than people think...I've lost count of how many tracks I've seen go under since I've lived in AZ. The closest now is probably a 7hr drive to LA, where they are also getting scarce. The most recent and now-closed track definitely lost business by catering only to racers, & an environment that was, well, the opposite of welcoming to everyone else. At 14, my best friend & I ran out & bought MKIIIs (just my 2nd car after The Falcon) after seeing a MKII zooming around our neighborhood. We'd scout the best pavement within biking distance, & drove those things till the tires wore out, mechanical speed controls & all. Kyosho tried to cater to the "just-for-fun" crowd for a while with cars like the Super Alta Porsche & Buick Stocker, but honestly I can't recall how popular they were. People don't buy their first pan-car & immediately start spending a lot of $$ & signing up for races. Some eventually will, others may just want to drive around with their friends. It is just plain dumb, and bad business, to be exclusionary rather than encouraging newbies whenever we can. Sure, maybe they should be separated, but there's a whole lot of hours when there's no racing or practice laps going on...I know there's a lot more to this business model that makes it a tough slog, but I dunno... My take is that this is the wrong way to go about it if the class is really going to stay alive.

This is what happens to your brand new Kyosho Plazma MKIII Limited when u drive it on top of a parking garage that looked smooth, except for the hidden invisible drain pipe.

sundevil67
You need to look at the post history of that 1995 Monster-T guy. that guy is advising everyone here (so also many racers) to use 18% oil and roto/pullstarts that can up with huge discussions as if we all are stupid and he knows it all because all his 50 engines are still alive and running fine.
His advise to use a rotostart is basically based on getting a backplate rotostart because he does not know better but yes, as you showed on the clutch side it is also possible to start with a some kind of electric motor.