1387LikesTamiya TT02 Thread
04-29-2019 | 06:17 PM
#1996
Finally got everything for my kit, turn to page 1, and see that it says I should have Tamiya Instant Cement for rubber tires.
Is there a alternative to the Tamiya brand that works well so I don’t have to wait a month for it to arrive from Japan?
Is there a alternative to the Tamiya brand that works well so I don’t have to wait a month for it to arrive from Japan?
05-01-2019 | 04:27 PM
#1999
Just got this motor and ESC in the mail, and I assumed that it would come with a 17.5 tooth pinion, which it did not. My TT-02 kit came with a 19 tooth pinion. Will this work?
05-02-2019 | 10:27 AM
#2005
Tech Apprentice
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 72
From: Orange County, CA
I actually got the RR - seems like its the same as the R except for the blue chassis. It has all the main upgrades but I ordered a few more while staying within TCS rules, like the aluminum steering, motor heatsink, etc. To bad TCS doesn't allow the screw upgrade from the S... not so much for the weight savings but so that I don't have to use a Phillips screwdriver. I'll run this in our local USTG class to see if it is competitive. I'm very new to Tamiya in general. I know they have the 'pro' 419 chassis but that is to expensive for me since i'm in it mostly for fun and as a hobby. Hopefully this TT02 will be good enough to use in the USGT class.
05-02-2019 | 11:46 PM
#2008
Tech Initiate
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 45
When you install the lock block both wheels turn at the same speed regardless of traction. So under low traction conditions the car is able to break traction at both wheels simultaneously. If you put heavy grease (e.g. tamiya AW grease) on the internal diff gears then you can achieve a 'limited slip' action which is somewhere between locked and open.
For drifting, you want to put the lock block in the rear and have the front diff as open as possible (minimal grease on gears). This will allow both rear wheels to break traction and the rear of the car to slide, meanwhile the front will spin 1 wheel and generate minimal forward traction which would otherwise cause the car to straighten up out of a slide.
For racing, you want to put the lock block in the front and have the rear open. This makes for a handling characteristic which tends to understeer rather than oversteer, making it easier to control. The car generally goes in whichever direction the front wheels are pointed and the rear does not easily slide since only 1 rear wheel will break traction if too much throttle is applied.
05-05-2019 | 09:55 PM
#2009
Tech Initiate
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 23
With the standard 'open' gear diff, more power is sent to whichever wheel is easier to turn. So in low traction conditions it will send almost all the power to whichever wheel has less traction, making it spin faster, and minimal power is sent to the wheel with more traction. You're probably familiar with this when 2 wheel drive car does a burnout and only 1 wheel spins - this is because it has an open diff.
When you install the lock block both wheels turn at the same speed regardless of traction. So under low traction conditions the car is able to break traction at both wheels simultaneously. If you put heavy grease (e.g. tamiya AW grease) on the internal diff gears then you can achieve a 'limited slip' action which is somewhere between locked and open.
For drifting, you want to put the lock block in the rear and have the front diff as open as possible (minimal grease on gears). This will allow both rear wheels to break traction and the rear of the car to slide, meanwhile the front will spin 1 wheel and generate minimal forward traction which would otherwise cause the car to straighten up out of a slide.
For racing, you want to put the lock block in the front and have the rear open. This makes for a handling characteristic which tends to understeer rather than oversteer, making it easier to control. The car generally goes in whichever direction the front wheels are pointed and the rear does not easily slide since only 1 rear wheel will break traction if too much throttle is applied.
When you install the lock block both wheels turn at the same speed regardless of traction. So under low traction conditions the car is able to break traction at both wheels simultaneously. If you put heavy grease (e.g. tamiya AW grease) on the internal diff gears then you can achieve a 'limited slip' action which is somewhere between locked and open.
For drifting, you want to put the lock block in the rear and have the front diff as open as possible (minimal grease on gears). This will allow both rear wheels to break traction and the rear of the car to slide, meanwhile the front will spin 1 wheel and generate minimal forward traction which would otherwise cause the car to straighten up out of a slide.
For racing, you want to put the lock block in the front and have the rear open. This makes for a handling characteristic which tends to understeer rather than oversteer, making it easier to control. The car generally goes in whichever direction the front wheels are pointed and the rear does not easily slide since only 1 rear wheel will break traction if too much throttle is applied.
dampers looks like the next mod for the tt02. anyone have suggestions? i was looking at the trf big bore dampers 42287. suggestions welcome.
