Tamiya TT02 Thread
#1847
45wt oil. Shocks.. I don’t use Tamiya springs these days.. try medium in front and soft in rear. Set camber to 1.5 all around. Droop is very important. You want front to droop around 1 mm over your ride height and rear about 2 mm.
the RR doesn’t have droop settings so you will need to put o rings in shocks.
the RR doesn’t have droop settings so you will need to put o rings in shocks.
#1848
Got it, thanks. Technically speaking o rings in shocks would violate novice class rules, no shimming allowed, but I get what you are saying. Setting these things on a TT should be interesting, there really is not any part that does not have a degree or mm or more of slop in it be it camber, toe, droop etc.
Last edited by Teamrule; 01-21-2019 at 07:21 PM.
#1851
Thanks, 2019 Novice allows any Tamiya Hop Up., but no shimming. Interestingly since you can use any hop up, I believe the torque tuned motor spins a a couple thousand RPM faster than the new Reedy Fixed timing 21.5T, the novice cars could be faster and built to the exact same spec as GT pro spec class.
They might as well make GT Pro spec the torque tuned motor now and save everyone the hassle of having to buy an expensive reedy motor and esc. Then a novice could truly move to that class easily.
They might as well make GT Pro spec the torque tuned motor now and save everyone the hassle of having to buy an expensive reedy motor and esc. Then a novice could truly move to that class easily.
#1852
I got something for every TT02S driver who is a little upset, that there only is a 3 degree toe in block for the rear suspension.
You can easily and plug‘n‘play upgrade your rear suspension to an active rear suspension. Just use the standard parts for the front suspension in the rear. The steering link can be attached to a thread from the motor-gear-cover (see pictures) with a 3x23mm turnbuckle. Because of the limited space use Tamiya 53907 ball head here. Additionally if you want to avoid the 4 degree caster angle of the c-hub you can use Tamiya 51106 2 degree c-hub. Now the rear is active, but because of the geometry of inner camber link and the „steering“ turnbuckle there is nearly no toe change when the arm moves up and down. You can now decide which toe angle you want to drive.
The car in the picture has the active rear suspension shown on the left and the normal suspension on the right.


You can easily and plug‘n‘play upgrade your rear suspension to an active rear suspension. Just use the standard parts for the front suspension in the rear. The steering link can be attached to a thread from the motor-gear-cover (see pictures) with a 3x23mm turnbuckle. Because of the limited space use Tamiya 53907 ball head here. Additionally if you want to avoid the 4 degree caster angle of the c-hub you can use Tamiya 51106 2 degree c-hub. Now the rear is active, but because of the geometry of inner camber link and the „steering“ turnbuckle there is nearly no toe change when the arm moves up and down. You can now decide which toe angle you want to drive.
The car in the picture has the active rear suspension shown on the left and the normal suspension on the right.


#1855
#1856
#1857


I am not even sure I did. I just figured wider was better. Used to my VTA car I ran with the wide rear. 24mm it will be then, thanks, I just finished the build. Need to get out there, are enough spec novice guys running on Sundays for a class?
#1858
Tech Addict
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Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 582
From: detroit area
hey guys, new to the tt-02 platforms.
getting ready to build my tt-02s and tt-02r for me and my son. going to be running on black ozite and no additives.
is it safe to say, Tamiya 24 Type C - is going to be the best tire?
getting ready to build my tt-02s and tt-02r for me and my son. going to be running on black ozite and no additives.
is it safe to say, Tamiya 24 Type C - is going to be the best tire?





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