1387LikesTamiya TT02 Thread
01-21-2019 | 03:40 PM
#1846
Tech Adept
Joined: Oct 2017
Posts: 226
I’m not sure as I haven’t seen new diff. The old diff can be had very cheaply.. $4.99 for both sets
https://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/prod....asp?p_id=7381
https://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/prod....asp?p_id=7381
What spring you think I should put on these CVA's, I started with 50wt oil all around, 3 hole piston front, 1 hole rear but the silver springs feel pretty soft to me.
Last edited by Teamrule; 01-21-2019 at 03:58 PM.
01-21-2019 | 06:14 PM
#1850
Looking at manual for a regular R with dogbones the outdrives are MB16 #19804237, the RR they RR MA20 # 19803157. S different again, but the R and S have a flat spot on outdrives that engages the differential. The RR you do not, its just round with a pin that engages the bevel gear of diff. Will need to verify more before buying diff spool.
What spring you think I should put on these CVA's, I started with 50wt oil all around, 3 hole piston front, 1 hole rear but the silver springs feel pretty soft to me.
What spring you think I should put on these CVA's, I started with 50wt oil all around, 3 hole piston front, 1 hole rear but the silver springs feel pretty soft to me.
01-21-2019 | 07:07 PM
#1852
45wt oil. Shocks.. I don’t use Tamiya springs these days.. try medium in front and soft in rear. Set camber to 1.5 all around. Droop is very important. You want front to droop around 1 mm over your ride height and rear about 2 mm.
the RR doesn’t have droop settings so you will need to put o rings in shocks.
the RR doesn’t have droop settings so you will need to put o rings in shocks.
01-21-2019 | 07:10 PM
#1853
Tech Adept
Joined: Oct 2017
Posts: 226
Got it, thanks. Technically speaking o rings in shocks would violate novice class rules, no shimming allowed, but I get what you are saying. Setting these things on a TT should be interesting, there really is not any part that does not have a degree or mm or more of slop in it be it camber, toe, droop etc.
Last edited by Teamrule; 01-21-2019 at 07:21 PM.
01-22-2019 | 07:02 AM
#1856
Tech Adept
Joined: Oct 2017
Posts: 226
Thanks, 2019 Novice allows any Tamiya Hop Up., but no shimming. Interestingly since you can use any hop up, I believe the torque tuned motor spins a a couple thousand RPM faster than the new Reedy Fixed timing 21.5T, the novice cars could be faster and built to the exact same spec as GT pro spec class.
They might as well make GT Pro spec the torque tuned motor now and save everyone the hassle of having to buy an expensive reedy motor and esc. Then a novice could truly move to that class easily.
They might as well make GT Pro spec the torque tuned motor now and save everyone the hassle of having to buy an expensive reedy motor and esc. Then a novice could truly move to that class easily.
01-22-2019 | 11:32 AM
#1857
I got something for every TT02S driver who is a little upset, that there only is a 3 degree toe in block for the rear suspension.
You can easily and plug‘n‘play upgrade your rear suspension to an active rear suspension. Just use the standard parts for the front suspension in the rear. The steering link can be attached to a thread from the motor-gear-cover (see pictures) with a 3x23mm turnbuckle. Because of the limited space use Tamiya 53907 ball head here. Additionally if you want to avoid the 4 degree caster angle of the c-hub you can use Tamiya 51106 2 degree c-hub. Now the rear is active, but because of the geometry of inner camber link and the „steering“ turnbuckle there is nearly no toe change when the arm moves up and down. You can now decide which toe angle you want to drive.
The car in the picture has the active rear suspension shown on the left and the normal suspension on the right.
You can easily and plug‘n‘play upgrade your rear suspension to an active rear suspension. Just use the standard parts for the front suspension in the rear. The steering link can be attached to a thread from the motor-gear-cover (see pictures) with a 3x23mm turnbuckle. Because of the limited space use Tamiya 53907 ball head here. Additionally if you want to avoid the 4 degree caster angle of the c-hub you can use Tamiya 51106 2 degree c-hub. Now the rear is active, but because of the geometry of inner camber link and the „steering“ turnbuckle there is nearly no toe change when the arm moves up and down. You can now decide which toe angle you want to drive.
The car in the picture has the active rear suspension shown on the left and the normal suspension on the right.
01-25-2019 | 07:32 AM
#1860
