Wow! It's good to see that the thread took flight, and I guess there's some good information for those making fuel to sale on a mass scale. However, I don't sale fuel, and I blend my own for drag racing only and it works better ( for what I'm doing) than anything I have bought. It also saves money.

I make my own fuel because it’s half the price or better of the commercial swill and it has in it exactly what I want in it. The days of the fuel companies doing what’s best for the engine and operator are LONG gone. They make the cheapest stuff they can and better than half the time are cheating the end user out of something.

Damn the man and save the empire!

If you're only dragracing you can skip a lot the fine tuning, as well as drop the percentage. Also beware that with really high nitro content castor might not mix to well, at least that's what they say, I've never gone high enough to find out.

The way I've been doing it works just fine and I don't go as high on the Nitro as we (a few drag racers here) use to in the mid 80s. Back then we would go as high as 70%!!! Hell we were destroying engines every week because we were mixing high nitro fuel, cutting the crank and exhaust port timing and grinding away on those little engines. Of course we didn't know exactly what we were doing but, much has changed since then and my engines doesn't come apart now days. They are screamers too!

my kind of thread !!!

im not making own fuel but blending with pure methanol & pure castor for decrease its % of nitro
ex; buy 30% racing fuel and decrease it into 25% for Buggy & 16% for onroad,, i just add amount of methanol and castor,

but im not mix it precisely, just take my beaker glass, syringe, and calculator, then go to racing to have fun

never had a problem so far. But i really want to use Klotz benol, its very hard to find in my country, so sad

Virgin pure castor is more than adequate - and usually much cheaper than Benol.

I would not trust virgin pure castor. Although it works it is an oil for body and health purposes Athough it says it is pure it can contain additives to give it a better smell or it is not clean enough given a black engine on the inside. My choice will be a race castor which is optimised for lubrication and a cleaner burning.

The problem is that you don't know how they have specified it, so one batch might be perfect, the next one not so much.
I do use some pure castor oil, but I buy it from a fuel mfg so I hope they have specified it correctly.
One of the good things with straight castor is that you don't get those sometimes pesky color additives.

I have used Bakers AA grade of castor oil from SIG Manufacturing for years. It’s “fuel grade” oil. It ran clean and well. Because the cost jumped to $40 per gallon plus shipping, I looked at other cheaper alternatives to try out and see if I get the same performance and qualities at a cheaper price. I tried a small bottle of castor oil for apothecary purposes as a test. I used it in fuels for all three engine types I use - marine, aircraft, and surface. Of these, the aircraft engines often run the hottest. I noted good properties and burning characteristics. I did a lot of experimenting with different oil concentrations and blends in my truck engines. Attached are pictures of my Novarossi Legend 28-8RT after 2 gallons of my “apothecary” fuels. Cardiak has seen this engine/truck run, so I’d think he could vouch for me. Not all castor oils are created alike, true... But oils for soap making and cosmetics rarely have additives as they could cause undesired effects in people with allergies.

Things are different in other parts of the world though, and you must remember that. What’s available to you may or may not be the same thing available to others in other countries.

You guys have to understand - like you, I have a lot of years and experience in this hobby. I would never recommend something if I haven’t had good results from it. I treat my engines with the utmost respect, but I also put them through their paces. I’m no racer, but I don’t have to be to test the limits of anything. But take what I say with a grain of salt. What I do works for me, and because of that, I’ll stick with it.

YMMV!!

I know many racer guys thing bashers are idiots. I get it. The fact is some are idiots, but many aren’t. This is preaching to the choir though.

Like I wrote, it might be more then perfect, but for someone not knowing how it should be it might be better/cheaper to use something that you know will work.
There are idiots everywhere, that's why some recommendations is best to specify, or give in a manner that requires them to educate themselves. But it's impossible to think about this all the time, that's why people on a good forum help each other to cover as many bases as possible.

Things are making more sense every day.

Welcome in my world. Although I am a racer over here the diy is not done, it makes me "a weird duck in the pond" (as we have such a Dutch saying). Many racers have no clue of diy and most do think that you do not win sponsors with it as those guys do tag all used brands when publishing their results on Facebook.

Nevermind. I don’t think you quite understand, but that’s okay.

The “outside the box” thinking is hardly welcomed or received by many/most people on this forum. But!! I know the racer vs. basher mentality all too well.

Facebook is the reason people are getting dumber every day. IMHO.

DIY is outside the box thinking,