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Old 12-31-1969, 04:00 PM
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Tekno RC EB48.4 Thread

Old 12-31-1969, 04:00 PM
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Old 12-24-2018 | 08:54 AM
  #1621  
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Originally Posted by Lineman26
Unless he was continually crashing and flipping on concrete I dont even see how it's possible to wear all the way through a shock cap? Maybe if he had 500 packs run through it with loose shock nuts or something haha. You sure they weren't plastic shock caps?? That's really the only realistic way I could see it happening...
I have only been in the hobby for one year and have seen crazy things happen. Doesn’t mean it will happen to anyone else or is even an issue. I will measure my used buggy shock caps which have significant play on the standoff versus a brand new set I have and report back.
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Old 12-24-2018 | 07:49 PM
  #1622  
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Default Overdrive with nb48.4 39T front

Does anyone have experience with overdrive? What are the pros and cons and what did you think is the best situation to use it?
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Old 12-25-2018 | 11:16 AM
  #1623  
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Originally Posted by codysb05
Does anyone have experience with overdrive? What are the pros and cons and what did you think is the best situation to use it?
I run the overdrive gearing in my .3. I run on a loose outdoor track.


Pros/Cons;

Pros for me, it allows me to drive my car a little harder without it getting squirrelly. We have a big long sweeper that is pretty bumpy and ever since I have put in the overdrive gearing I have been able to track much better through the rough corner and at a higher speed.


As for Cons, maybe in other driving conditions (higher traction) or for people with different driving habits, but for me I don't have any.
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Old 12-26-2018 | 04:04 PM
  #1624  
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Merry Christmas friends. Is there any way to convert my EB48.4 and EB48SL to a GT configuration? I bought these cool cars but there are no tracks close to me to run them. I might as well run them on my street. I’m okay with just running street tires but I’d rather have them look more like onroad cars. I’m guessing I need lower shock towers, smaller shocks, body posts, a lid, and tires. Not sure how to source lower shock towers though. Sorry if this has already been asked.
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Old 12-26-2018 | 07:42 PM
  #1625  
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Originally Posted by nismoflip
Merry Christmas friends. Is there any way to convert my EB48.4 and EB48SL to a GT configuration? I bought these cool cars but there are no tracks close to me to run them. I might as well run them on my street. I’m okay with just running street tires but I’d rather have them look more like onroad cars. I’m guessing I need lower shock towers, smaller shocks, body posts, a lid, and tires. Not sure how to source lower shock towers though. Sorry if this has already been asked.
Try contacting VRP to see if they might be interested in cutting you some custom towers:
https://www.visionracingproducts.com/

If they aren't able to do it, I might be able to help, I've got a CNC, but would need you to send me the shocks you plan to use so I can test fit and get the right ride height, typically in the 9mm - 14 mm range for most GT8 cars. I would recommend keeping the same shape on the top of the towers so you can use the SCT410 body mounts

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Old 12-27-2018 | 09:24 AM
  #1626  
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Thanks for the info billdelong. I'll try Vision Racing first. I'm hoping to get away with buying a pair of front shocks to use for the rear. I have never seen a GT8 car in front of me so I don't know if even the EB48 front shocks are too long. Nice tip on the tower shape to utilize the SCT410 body mounts.
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Old 12-27-2018 | 01:34 PM
  #1627  
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Here's a conversion that I did about 6 years ago to an RC8Be, I kept the original shocks/towers on it, it was fairly competitive but you might notice excessive body roll and you can hear the lexan body rubbing on tight corners, it really needed stiffer springs which aren't available for buggies, if you want to do it right, then I would cut lower towers for both the front and rear and pick some other brand of GT8 shocks... for a tight budget, I would consider the shocks from the Mad Drift.

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Old 01-29-2019 | 03:07 AM
  #1628  
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Default receiver question

could someone tell me is the receiver from a sanwa MT-44 will fin the box for the radio gear? its a rx-482, looking at a new radio and want to make sure it will fit
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Old 01-29-2019 | 07:45 AM
  #1629  
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I believe that's the receiver I have in mine and it's fine.
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Old 03-07-2019 | 05:24 AM
  #1630  
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I'm looking to buy an eb 48.4 I'll consider anything from a roller to complete with electronics. Pm me with info.
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Old 03-17-2019 | 10:03 PM
  #1631  
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Are these the 3 x 2.1 pistons that people have been using? Don’t see a 3 hole VRP piston for the Tekno 1/8 vehicles?

https://www.amainhobbies.com/m2c-16m...2c9656/p576856


Also for a low grip (dusty and bumpy/rough) track, on the DoD rear tower. Which holes on the tower? Further out? I saw somewhere before I got the buggy about the outer two rows work for high grip and low grip but can’t recall if the very outside was for high or low grip and the second was for the opposite, I think?

Drove my buggy for the first time Sunday. Practice (full kit setup) was not that great. Back end was super super loose. Softer springs all around and the car got a bit better. Moved the rear hubs forward.....didn’t like that so put them back in the middle. Added more rear toe and camber. The car got better. For the main, I went to 5k in the center diff and the car was really a lot better. I think next race day I will add the DoD rear shock tower. Go to 3 or 4K in the rear diff and change the shock pistons.

Compared to my AE buggy. AE felt more neutral and a bit more planted. The EB48.4 is more nimble and will move around more in the air on command. If I can get the back end planted, get more off throttle steering and get it to go through the rough stuff without wanting to get airborne....this buggy will be amazing.

Last edited by PorTX; 03-17-2019 at 10:15 PM.
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Old 03-18-2019 | 07:59 PM
  #1632  
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I was completing the off season rebuild on our eb48.3 getting ready for this summer. The shocks are still stock (vented) and while the front 2 went together fine, I rebuilt one of the rears 3 times and each time the bladder slipped out of position and oil poured out the bleeder hole after screwing the cap down tight. What would normally be the issue there? Worn out bladder? Shock cap?

I was thinking about replacing the caps for the emulsion style TKR8702 but then I understand I also need TKR8027 as well for the additional clearance, it quickly adds up. I guess the plastic version from the SCT is also an option? Is it worth the upgrade or any suggestion on what I should try first?

Edit : Found some relative comments in the eb48.3 thread. Will try a rebuild and won't be pushing the shaft in so far. Lutz says to leave a 1/4" for front and 3/8" for rear.

Last edited by nesbot; 03-19-2019 at 02:53 PM.
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Old 03-20-2019 | 01:01 AM
  #1633  
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Originally Posted by PorTX


Are these the 3 x 2.1 pistons that people have been using? Don’t see a 3 hole VRP piston for the Tekno 1/8 vehicles?

https://www.amainhobbies.com/m2c-16m...2c9656/p576856


Also for a low grip (dusty and bumpy/rough) track, on the DoD rear tower. Which holes on the tower? Further out? I saw somewhere before I got the buggy about the outer two rows work for high grip and low grip but can’t recall if the very outside was for high or low grip and the second was for the opposite, I think?

Drove my buggy for the first time Sunday. Practice (full kit setup) was not that great. Back end was super super loose. Softer springs all around and the car got a bit better. Moved the rear hubs forward.....didn’t like that so put them back in the middle. Added more rear toe and camber. The car got better. For the main, I went to 5k in the center diff and the car was really a lot better. I think next race day I will add the DoD rear shock tower. Go to 3 or 4K in the rear diff and change the shock pistons.

Compared to my AE buggy. AE felt more neutral and a bit more planted. The EB48.4 is more nimble and will move around more in the air on command. If I can get the back end planted, get more off throttle steering and get it to go through the rough stuff without wanting to get airborne....this buggy will be amazing.
If you want the back end more planted run a longer camber link. Also we normally run 7 7 5 or 7 10 5 for diff oils. The DoD tower is used to make the car rotate around the corner faster by giving you the option to run a really short link using the outer holes but it sounds like you want the car to drive more around the corners which for newer drivers like myself felt alot better at first. Try out the 3x2.2 3x2.1 pistons by getting the blanks and drilling them out. Don't focus on setup a whole lot with the buggy, find something you like and stick with it and it will become natural. I made the mistake of changing it all the time when I first got it and the car changes quite a bit due to setup changes and it messes with your driving ability. Good Luck!
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Old 03-21-2019 | 08:16 PM
  #1634  
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Added the DoD rear shock tower, changed diff oils to 6-5-4 and the car is way way better! I got a chance to stop back by the track and make one run on the track with those changes. The track was not watered and was totally unprepped. The car was still so much better I really could not believe it! Race day the car wanted to step out on acceleration and would not hold a really tight line in the sharp corners. Even with a dry loose track the buggy will now do whatever I wanted it to do. Something in the shock tower change also helped in the rough straight as well. It still needs work in that department but I think I am headed in the right direction.
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Old 03-21-2019 | 09:14 PM
  #1635  
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Originally Posted by PorTX
Added the DoD rear shock tower, changed diff oils to 6-5-4 and the car is way way better! I got a chance to stop back by the track and make one run on the track with those changes. The track was not watered and was totally unprepped. The car was still so much better I really could not believe it! Race day the car wanted to step out on acceleration and would not hold a really tight line in the sharp corners. Even with a dry loose track the buggy will now do whatever I wanted it to do. Something in the shock tower change also helped in the rough straight as well. It still needs work in that department but I think I am headed in the right direction.
We got a very loose outdoor track in my place too. Currently running 7-5-3 for diff and longer camber link for both front and rear. Also I drop to the lowest hole for camber link on the tower to give more roll. I really like the current setup but thinking to add overdrive ring and pinion for the front diff.
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