Those new wheel nuts look good. Only thing I can think of that i like on some other ones I use that would be cool as an update is the flat surface that sits on the wheel could be wider if possible. This is an assumption though that the flat surface part is same width are eb410 ones.

So basically like this:

https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...-n4flt/p541494

Matthew_Armeni, there was a discussion over these nuts on the EB410 2 days ago as well. You may want to have a look at that thread's comments as well if you're with Tekno. 10/22/2018, starting with post #4711 by HOTROD716.

So my Novak NX4-3900KV motor arrived in the mail today, only 3 day shipping!

Rather than flood a really long post, I decided to make a separate review thread on the motor here:
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...0#post40391914

I also would like to point out that VRP has their +4MM shock towers available to the public now!

VRP CnC Option Carbon Fiber Tekno ET410 +4mm Front Tower

VRP CnC Option Carbon Fiber Tekno ET410 +4mm Rear Tower

*** Note that the bottom 2 holes on the rear tower sit lower than the stock roll center plate so you can get a higher roll center which is perfect for high traction tracks!

These towers allow me to get a ride height of 14mm front and 16mm rear with SCT wheels which is a really good ride height for high traction turf

1. did you see the date on that hobbywing page about the tenshock issues? pretty sure that's been resolved. at least if your esc has current firmware.

2. as for the quality of the tenshock motor, are you basing it solely on the fact it doesn't have shims? something that most rc'ers will never have cause to mess with? for me, a bigger issue would be the lack of thread lock on the novak's phillips head (yuck) screws. to me that's more of a "quality" issue than a lack of shims. i also believe the solder tabs are a poor design, but they are sturdy and well made so i'm not sure that's a "quality" issue. i guess you could look at it that way. to me, it's like saying neither one are good quality because they don't have adjustable timing. that's not really a "quality" issue as much as it is just poor, cheap design.

3. i'd check your math on the percentage of magnet volume. i'm getting 60%, which is also slightly off as you didn't take into account the volume of the shaft that the magnets are glued to (a minor change).

4. interesting that the most efficient shimming makes the motor come out just about exactly what the motor is rated (3900kv when divided by 2 to account for the extra poles). kinda makes you wonder maybe the shims got swapped and they are supposed to be how you ended up putting them.

I agree, the motor seemed to work fine at top speed, it just lacked torque/acceleration. Who knows, maybe I just got a dud, I will send an email to RCJuice and see what they have to say.

The bigger issue with the TenShock motor is that without any shims, I can't close the gap between the rotor and the sensor board, this is a fundamental design flaw and may very well be a contributing factor that might explain how I may have got a potential dud. With a large gap and no ability to close that gap, I am losing efficiency and overall performance

Thanks for the correction, I've updated my post, much appreciated!
As far as the shaft itself, you are correct, however both shafts are of equal size so I figured the calculation to remove the volume of the shaft wasn't necessary.

I was able to remove both shims to close the gap within 0.1mm but that was just too close for comfort, I opted to keep the 0.1mm shim there for a clearance around 0.2mm and then I placed the 0.2mm shim on the pinion side.

There was a local racer in my area who recently got into 13.5T Buggy, he's a 1/8 Nitro driver and to his dismay, he got all of 2 battery packs on his brand new buggy before the end bell came off his motor and trashed the rotor. I don't recall which brand of motor it was, but I know it was a name brand, this guy only buys high end stuff. My take home is that it's not a bad idea to apply fresh thread lock on all the motor screws regardless of brand. I have also grown to accept that shimming the rotor gap is becoming essential as well.

As far as manufacturing of rotor quality goes, so far the best I've seen is from Trinity with nice polished metallic cylinders... the Novak rotor was spun up in very similar quality to Tekin rotors that I have seen. The TenShock rotor looks like a very cheap quality packing tape that was used to secure the magnets, I fear that the TenShock rotor will not be able to withstand much abuse when compared to pretty much any other brand of rotor that I've seen of a handful of brands that I've tuned so far.

The locking nylon pushed out of the wheel nuts, so I got rid of them.

I got some open practice this afternoon with the Novak NX4-3900KV and that motor is nearly perfect torque/acceleration with punch dialed back to the lowest settings... I ran all the way down to LVC, but would periodically finger check the motor every couple of minutes to make sure temps were not too bad, anyway when I finally pulled the lid off, I realized that I forgot to plug the fan back in after programming the ESC and without the cooling fan the motor came off the track at 109° with the 18T pinion... unfortunately the shop was out of stock on 20T pinions with 1/8" shaft so I picked up a 5mm shaft pinion and will hunt down my pinion sleeve so I can run with the 20T pinion tomorrow. Top speed was a pinch faster than the 13.5T buggies down the straight, but should be perfect with the 20T pinion.

There's no doubt in my mind at this point that there was something wrong with the TenShock motor I got... either it was a dud or it's just not up to snuff for the ET410. I got a response back from the dealer "RCJuice" and they basically said there was no warranty because the motor was only designed for 2WD SCT... <shrug>... lesson learned, that will be the last TenShock motor I ever buy.

i could have told you not to bother with RCJuice. horrible customer service. another reason to avoid tenshock as i think they are the only US tenshock dealer.

I finally got my first race in and it was a blast. I had one ball cup issue, and it was my fault on that one. I had a tough time slowing down the steering. This is the fastest steering truck I have ever driven, I had to open up the wheel stance and slow the servo. I need more time to get the hand of it, but did pretty decent overall. I need to find a decent pinion and want to know what you are using. I have a Traxxas 32p, but am getting a lot of whine. The Tekin 5.0 is perfect for this. I was temping 132, so that is great, and with no fan and 8 minute races, awesome.

To the guys running stadium truck tires... are you swapping out the typical open cell foam for closed cell? If not, are you trimming the open cell foams?

I'm running 2 washers on the steering stops with 0° front toe, 97% D/R, 97% S/S and 60K in the front diff, car feels great probably the easiest I've ever had the pleasure to drive, some of the faster drivers prefer more steering when they test drive my truck, but I like to drive full lock and use throttle to control my angle of attack in the sweepers.


I knew it was a risk... anyway I couldn't be happier with my Novak NX4-3900KV with a 20T pinion. Motor temps were coming off the track consistently at 133° with a cooling fan. I would qualify about 11 seconds behind a local pro driver which made me feel pretty good. There were five 4WD Trucks mixed in with three 2WD Trucks, so I would start #3 on the grid, and the main would turn into a battle of attrition. The #5 driver stripped out the threads on a ball cup on his 4th lap. The #4 driver stripped a servo gear on his lucky 13th lap. I would end up in the #3 spot where my solder joint melted off at the negative lead on the ESC from the battery just when I finished my 15th lap. The ESC was barely warm to the touch which makes me think it was just a sloppy solder joint that eventually popped off over time... this was from wiring that had been done 2 cars ago when I used the iron at the track with fans blowing in the pit room and I was too lazy to go back and do it right at home... #rookymistake

Anyway, here's a clip of yesterday's main for those interested in watching these trucks battle it out on turf, oh and I'm the only one running SCT wheels:

I didn't think of going thicker on the diff oil, not a bad idea. ASC 91738 for the wheel nuts.

Weird question...Anyone ran the DE wheels (AE T5) on this truck? I bought some and glued up some tires over the weekend and had trouble getting the wheel to mount on the truck. It feels like the tolerance either on the hex itself or the hole for the axle is way too tight. I wasn't sure if anyone else had this issue?

We run DE wheels most of the time when we run ST tires. They do have a tight axle hole but they always go on. You could drill them out with a 5mm or 5.1mm bit but after a couple removals and reinstalls they should be easier to get on and off.