I decided to move two of the front axle washers to the rear of the hinge pin shaft, the thick and thin one, and leave a thin one to the front. This should extend the wheel base and smooth out the steering. Shorter wheel base cars turn very fast.

I'm planning on trying the Tekin Pro2 5100kV motor to give mine a bit more zip. Anyone running this motor? What gearing?

There is a local pro in my area who did not like the high KV 4 pole motor because it would tend to cause the nose to lift up and cause too much push in the chicanes.

I opted for a 3900KV 4 Pole from Novak and that's working very well for me with a 20T pinion. I originally started out with a 5.5T 2 pole motor and while I was happy with the performance, the motor thermaled on me after 4+ race days. Most folks in my area are having good luck with 6.5T 2 pole motors.

I tried out a TenShock SC211-4400KV and couldn't get that motor to last a single race day... I found out yesterday from another racer at our club that he couldn't get 1 pack through his SC211 before his motor burned up.

I just bought another 5.0 motor to try out, a Reedy M3 5.0! I have some 6.5's as backup. The Reedy has a very large diameter shaft and that may just be the ticket.

I bent one of my pins along with busting the front bulkhead on my ET410 after trying to learn a new layout at the club in my area. I was taking some big air and missed the landing ramp but came down on the 2x4 board that is used for lane dividers... 95% of the time I don't break when I take a bad landing like this, but sometimes I don't get so lucky. Here are some pics of the jump for reference, not my ET410 in the pic, but just to show you how the boards are positioned where I experienced the break from taking the full jump, I have since learned to not risk the jump and layup with the step on-step off rather than clearing the whole thing:

I've bent a few pins already as well on a clay track. It makes sense to me. Think about how people were having problems bending EB410 pins on carpet, and then imagine all of the extra traction generated by ST tires, and all of the extra load applied by the longer arms and track width. Granted, all of my bends have been from bum landings and tumbles thus far. Right now, I'm at an all time record with this thing... 3 race days and no breaks!

What sucks is when the pin bends it destroys the insert and wallows out the hinge pin hole in the arm... so it immediately requires replacing 3 parts.

Thats what I run and it has been great.


Also, I just now noticed that the paint on my rear half shafts has started to come off about half way point (on each side). It looks as if somewhere in the travel that the shock springs are brushing against the half shafts. Did I mess something up or has anyone else had that happen? What would be the best way to fix that w/o messing with set-up? I assume it's easier to shim the standoffs to bump the shocks out rather than reshuffle the spacers that are on the pin/arm (which would slightly change wheelbase, I assume)?

1mm spacer between the lower shock mount and the arm. Problem solved.

Ok that is what I will do. Thanks.

Just stuck the M3 5.0 motor in this and at first it was slow, so I punched the timing up on the RSX to 35* and now it looks good. I guess I need to check out the rear shocks for rub. Added some weight to the rear.

Yup, learned this actually with my EB410 cause its the same situation. I planned for it during the initial build on my ET and actually use a 2mm spacer for better clearance cause a 1mm will still rub slightly.

First run with the Tekin 5100kV Pro2 motor last night, and wow, this thing rips! Started with a 16t pinion and motor temps were just over 100 after 10 minutes, 17t brought that up to about 110, ended with an 18t and temps still low at 115. Running kit setup with 30/30/10 in diffs and no problem with front liftoff down the straight, very responsive to throttle attitude adjustments in the air. Pushing a bit on throttle in the corners and plan to decrease front, increase rear sway bars a bit; the track is short and pretty tight in the turns.

that's crazy that you're getting an on power push with the kit setup. what type of surface?

i'm trying to tune some of my on power steering away. i went to 20 in the front and 50 in the center with orange front springs, and for me, it's much easier to drive.

I am on high bite clay indoors, running Electrons now which have a bit better grip than the Chainlinks I started with. It is mostly pushing starting the turn. Once the front bites and the car starts to rotate I can steer it with throttle, but need to slow too much to get the turn started. Was thinking of trying to change the front and rear diff oils but not sure which way to go as I have read opposing info; thicker front and thinner rear or thinner front and thicker rear too reduce push. I'm thinking the latter.