I have to say, the Sworks hingepins we have been using have been excellent and are pretty cheap. I don't know if the replacement tekno pins are better, but when we went to the sworkz pins at the time, we haven't had to change them out.

Thinking about getting one of these, but in the videos I've seen looks like its loose in the rear end at times and or has the initial understeer unless you unload the rear end with the brakes like on my EB410. Maybe just track conditions but seems to be the similar in most videos I've watched?

the truck shares the same characteristics as the buggy. In kit setup it will feel very loose if you let off the throttle. The key is to just stay in throttle. You don't have to keep it pegged or anything, just don't let it go to neutral. If you don't like this handling, which most of us didn't, you can easily tune it out.

Are you running max sweep/kick to settle the car off power in tight corners?

I've only got about 5 min of practice on my ET410 this past Saturday on turf before I stripped a servo, I have since dropped in a 1/8 buggy servo and been trying to tune out the front end... when I stripped the servo it was after braking from WOT on the straight and diving into a 90° corner where the car got a little too snappy and hit the inside board. Probably my fault with just trying to learn how to drive a new truck, but I definitely needed to dial back my D/R to almost 75% before it was drive-able... I'm thinking I have tons of D/R to add back after going max sweep/kick, but not sure if there are other things to try?

I hope to get some more run time tonight at the club, also will compare lap times between SCT tires with closed cell foams vs ST tires with open cell foams.

EDIT... I also added 1.9mm bars on both the front/rear... waiting on Red springs (fr/rr) to arrive

Welp... I'm joining the club! Picked this up from my LHS yesterday. Going to put an RSX and Gen3 8.5 in it for now, then see how things evolve classing wise. I must say, the build is very nice, and the instructions are some of the best I've seen.

has anyone tried SC10 4x4 springs to try and solve the rear droop/springs too short issue?

It seems most folks are seeing the issue go away after a couple runs. I don't know exactly why but so far this has been the "fix".

thats a thought ... Yeah I'd be curious personally how well they would work too.

so what's the easy way to tune it out please?

So it's like a porsche?

I'm no tuning expert, but I'd be willing to bet a lot of this is due to the fact that there is so little weight in back. Keeping on the throttle pushes more weight transfer to the rear end and helps it dig,

Pretty much what I was thinking too. The truck seems to be front-weight biased. Regardless of what any stats may say (never looked them up) I just feel like it is a bit nose-heavy feeling, compared to my EB48SL, when I switch back and forth. Not a bad thing, just a different driving style is needed. But maybe if there is a different set-up that I should try, then I'd willing to.

wonder if it would benefit from that exotek weight in the rear.

If the car is too stable off power for you a good starting point would be to center the front arms with the wheelbase shims and remove any sweep you might be running. The car should feel more neutral into turns without the front bone having any angle on it. Another thing would be to run thinner front and/or center diff oil or a lighter front swaybar.
Cars are typically easier for most people to drive if it's setup to be more stable into turns, so we tuned the trucks starting setup more towards that.

The difference with a Porsche is that it's extremely rear weight biased, if you let off the throttle the rear swings around like a pendulum, like how rear motor 2wd buggies drive.

A 22-4 2.0 chassis protector installed backwards on the et410. And look at the template in came out of, those little strips is all I had to trim. It's not perfect but I had it here at my workbemch.