yeah I don't do it every race, rather just the start of the day. Unless my car is doing weird stuff and bouncing.

Exactly what I was thinking when I read that.

I suppose you could very slowly push the shaft in until you SEE oil, then quickly get the bleeder screw back in.....?

no because then you'll get different rebound settings.

The reason you do this at the beginning of the day is simply to remove that pressure you get from travelling or storage. The shocks aren't sucking in air like a 10th scale shock. It's just a slight amount. If you notice your car behaving weirdly, bleed them.

What's the benefit of swapping from the univerals to cvds on the .4?

Well typically universals are more for rough/bumpy conditions and cvd's do better on a smoother track.

Had my first race with this beautiful car last weekend and LOVED IT. It drives itself, jumps like a cat and handles great, and that's with box setup.

One thing I noticed though, was after each qualifier (three of them with three different sets of rims) I'd have a thick black "ring" of melted plastic on the inside/center of some or all of the rims. It's obviously coming from the rim being right up against the hub carriers, and actually scrubbing (probably in the curves, bad/sideways landings, etc), and was wondering if you guys found a way to prevent this (my buddy's rims from last season are the same way, so it's not just me).

I've considered dremeling a touch off of either the carriers or the rims for a fix.....?

Thanks

nice vid from scotzilla rc

Add one diff shim between each hub and bearing out. It gives more gap between rims and hub. For the spindle carrier, you can try dremeling a little bit the nut's camberlink area. Make a chamfer.

Thanks. I'll give that a try

PICS of this?

Thinking about buying an EB48, does anyone know whether this lipo would fit in the tray and under the body?

https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-...___store=en_us

This is cut and pasted straight from Teknorc.com the tray itself may not even be big enough for that battery (but it is pretty close) let alone room under the body. But thats just going off of the given dimensions so couldn't say for sure.Specifications

• Length: 435mm (without wing)
• Wheelbase: 323-335mm
• Width: 306-310*mm (*optional hubs required)
• Weight: 3200g (7.0lb) (RTR weight equipped w/ Tekin RX8, 500g battery, rx, etc)
• Diff Ratio: F/R – 12/40t, Center – 44t
• Battery tray dimensions: 50x148mm (2x2s or 1x4s config)
• Kit/RTR: Kit

how does this handle 6s?

Usefull if you remove the screw limiter on the spindle

I've stripped my plastic 44T spur, but I'm not able to find a 42T or 40T one? Do they even exist?!

If not, I'll just buy a 44T metal spur replacement