I didn't try the O-ring trick but the Diff came with two hard foam buttons that still didn't take up enough slack to prevent the axel from falling out. Oh well another order from TQ. Thanks for the reply's.

I ordered a set of tc big bore shocks, what springs are most using, tc or mini?

My Mazda MX5 body has not arrived as of yet and I want to assemble the chassis. Is the MX5 a med or long wheel base?

Thanks

Need help,
Changing the tamiya 850 & 1150 bearings to Ceramic.
does anyone have the sizes off hand?

The way to tell the sizes are right in the numbers you posted. 850 is an 8mm outer dia by 5mm inner (usually called a 5x8). 1150 is 11mm outer, 5mm inner (5x11). That's how tamiya refers to sizes.

Probably should also note the thickness of the bearings. So 5x11x4, 5x10x4, and 5x8x2.5.

Avidrc sells bearings packages for a lot of cars. Anything from basics to ceramics.

has anyone tried out ceramic bearings?any positive attributes ?.....even the negative ones.Looking forward to the responses.

[QUOTE=ncpantherfan;1497617
My Mazda MX5 body has not arrived as of yet and I want to assemble the chassis. Is the MX5 a med or long wheel base?
[/QUOTE]

The MX-5 body is the medium wheel base

Hey guys, I have a M05 pro v2 I bought used. I run on a carpet track with foams and it torq steers like crazy. Any ideas on how I might be able to tame it a little?

The aluminum steering posts are a huge help if you don't have them. Also, for me anyways, a really right ball diff has always given me bad torque steer in the 05. How tight is your diff?

@ M07 builders

Was just rebuilding my XV-01 doffs and thought of you guys!

Since the diff in the M07 is the same one that the TA06 and XV-01 use. I would recommend using the Kyosho P5 O ring.. works better than black one that is included. Another option would be the X-ray clear O ring which is slightly bigger and meatier, and can be compressed in the cavity..which will require 0,2 mm shim versus the kit included 0,3 mm. The X ray is what most of us use in the 419.

The M07 kit diff comes with the orange 5mm orings which are better than the black ones they used to give.

I'm not sure how they compare to the Kyosho ones. As for the XRAY 972050 orings, I tried using them when I was building the diff but they seem very tight when I did a dry fit (even considering its a dry fit). I'm not sure if its supposed to feel like that? I already used 0.2mm shims and the orings seated properly, they are much thicker compared to standard 5mm ones.

I switched back to the kit orange ones in the end.

Almost completing my M07, material and build quality is far superior compared to the previous models. Despite that, I had to make some adjustments:

- Added 0.2mm shims (5mm I.D.) between the steering knuckle and the C hubs to remove up/down play along the axis of the king pin. Making sure the shim is centered properly with the kingpin pipe.

- The fit of the C hubs and rear hubs are quite tight on the suspensions arms to the point that they were binding, this required some sanding for smooth suspension movement.

- Front lower suspension arm mount, instead of using the button screws to retain the arm shafts, I drilled out the marked holes on the mount and put in some set screws. This removes some side play from the shafts and saves a tiny bit of weight as the two button screws are now replaced by set screws.

- Rear suspension mounts, I put in the aluminum option set. The hole for the dowel pin on the chassis is slightly oversized and this causes the aluminum mounts to be slightly rotated when the screw is tightened down (downwards on left and upwards on right due to clockwise tightening of the screw). This slightly changes the angle of the suspension shafts. I cut some small pieces of vinyl from parts packaging and placed them in between the chassis hole and the dowel pin to take up the space so the mounts could be seated closer to being square.

- Front anti roll bars, the lower ball cups of the roll bar kit were a bit too tight on the moulded ball connectors of the front suspension arms, another source of binding. I sanded the mould lines off the ball connectors and also used a body reamer on both sides of the ball cup, and this fixed the issue.

- Rear anti roll bars, the notch on the chassis that holds the roll bar isn't wide enough at the top to allow the set screws to remove slack when they are screwed down (width of screw is more than width of notch, while the bar is seated further down below). So instead of tightening down on the roll bar when screwed in, the set screws will bottom out on the top of the notch and start to lift the upper bulkhead cap if you continue to tighten them down. To fix this, I used a file to widen the top part of the notch so the set screws can actually reach further down to remove the up/down play from the roll bar.
I noticed that the inner part (closer to chassis centreline) of the notch is actually wider by design, which seems like the set screw holes on the upper bulkhead cap are incorrectly placed over the wrong position. Had the holes be placed another ~2mm towards the chassis centerline, there wouldn’t be this defect.

I've used Ceramic bearings in my touring cars. They require less maintenance than the steel bearings, and usually last longer. I've found the cheapie Yeah Racing ones to be good. Acer Bearings are another brand I have tried.

The only negative I can think of is cost. They are usually double the cost of a steel bearing.

Hi,

I would like to know what brushless combos are you using in small carpet tracks.
I have tried to see what are the motor rules for TCS, but I could not find anything.
I am thinking about 17.5T blinky before hand on outdoors on open tracks I have used minis with 10.5T blinky and a 9.5T.

best regards
Javier

Go to the Tamiya USA site. All the info you need is there.