Nortran,
How tight are you running the diff in the rear?

I take it that the ball diff is "drop in"?

Thanks.

Cheers,
Jim

Jim, yeah the ball diff is a drop in replacement, if you are running a Type S. If you are running a standard TT02 or R, there will need to be some other mods. You will need new outdrives (the collar that goes into the diff has teeth instead of the flattened ones). With the new outdrive cups come new smaller dogbones (actual metal ones instead of those giant plastic ones) and new axles.

I run mine pretty tight.....I learned how to setup diffs on short course trucks running in clay, so I probably set mine a little tighter than most TC guys. I usually crank it all the way down and then make tiny adjustments until I can spin the back tire and make one revolution

The diff mod I have done works well.. you just need to fill it back up every few runs.

I managed to install sway bars on my car, works only on be type S. its not ideal and the affect on the rear is minimal but front is working.

I will hold off posting it, since Qatmix seems to have come up with a real solution.

I'm also noticing that after a few runs the screws that hold the suspension holders are backing out. I put a drop of CA in those holes and reinstalled the screws, should hold for time being.

I will probably need a new tub chassis soon.. now that the stiffer ones are available, will get one of those

what are you specs on that tt02-s? are you running it carpet or asphalt? I was just running the 419x for outdoor usgt and I finished 3rd overall. I have a brand new tt02 at home that I can try for usgt.

I run on Grey Carpet.

Ride height 5
Droop - 1,5 over ride height in front and 2,5 in rear
Camber - 1,5º all around
Front toe - 1,0º toe out
Dampers TRF419 big bores
Shocks Muchmore 400 wt
Springs Muchmore X springs Red front (firm) Pink rear (medium) - I also tested the old HPI Pink in front and silver in rear.. was about the same.

Diff - Front epoxied / locked, Rear 10k (using my diff mod in this post

R/C Tech Forums - View Single Post - Tamiya TT02 Thread

Motor fantom FR-1 21.5
ESC HW Just Stock
Gearing 78/51
Tyres USGT Spec
Body: Killerbody Lexus RC F

After I changed the tires, I got enough grip and able to unleash more power from my 10.5T motor....it's fun for the first few packs until I break my front knuckle
For replacement, I bought the Alu. one but then I realized I lost "A8" part....
So I need to order A part (51527) eventually.

However I am thinking can I just use a washer/shim to replace A8, is it possible? Do anyone know the size? Thanks.

Hi all, I just picked up a TT02 with the MB GT3 body and got it all put together. I still need to cut and paint the shell but have taken it out for a few drives. Being my first Tamiya kit car, I was pleasantly surprised by how easy and fun it was to put together. I did order some shims to remove some slack tho. also, surprised how fun the torque tuned motor is out the box.

I'm not a tuner by any means but the car in stock for has plenty understeer. What a some quick wins to help combat it?

Besides shimming out some slop, I have a 17.5T coming as well in hopes of better braking with the stock esc thru brushless mode. I'm thinking about the aluminum steering component as well.

Do you guys typically run a servo saver or ditch it for an arm? I'm running a Savox 2271 so it should be strong and quick.

Always good to see more people with TT02
I am using Hi-Torque Servo Saver (51000) that come with the steering upgrade set...the kit saver is pretty lame, you can just throw it away like my friend.
If you treasure your servo and would like to race then get a better one, otherwise you can still use the kit one for fun.

I've ditched a servo saver in both of my on-road cars and never looked back With a good servo, plastics in the steering assembly will break first.

I'd like to think the Savox should hold up with no saver so I'll go that route.

Adding a the locked diff in the rear will push the car into more over steer or help kick the rear out into a drift?

I believe that is the idea behind the locked diff, though I have never tried drifting my cars. At least not on purpose lol.

Unless you are planning on building an actual drift car I would not lock the rear.....it will make the car very unruly as well as lead to more wear in the outdrives.

I have my rear fairly open (Just using AW grease) and with a 17.5T motor it is very easy to induce throttle on oversteer.

Cheers,
Jim

Sorry, got my terminology backwards. Experiencing more understeer where the car is pushing thru a turn. I have to release throttle, tap brakes, and power on the turn sharper.

So...Monday during "Prime Day" I got a deal on a IR Thermometer and it just showed up. I took 10 minutes and ran the car with the 5.02:1 FDR. My finger is pretty darn accurate when I was guessing 130-140*F....After 10 minutes I was at 131*. After work I will swap out the pinion to get me to 4.33:1 and see where I am temp wise.....it looks like I am safe to eeekkk a couple more MPH out of her.

Cheers,
Jim

One of the cheapest and best tools in the box is the IR thermometer.

What gearing on the 17.5T are you at now and looking to go to?