Your M-chassis Big Bore shocks will work fine if you replace the stock shafts (26mm or 28mm depending) with 30mm shafts.

I think you can also choose to use the longer lower shock-ends (BallCup) option instead of the longer shaft. (this is what I'm going to try first, as this is what I used on my M05)

unfortunately I don't have partnumbers handy, just familiar with the parts I've used. all the shock parts-trees come with both the short and long lower shock-ends so you may have those laying around and/or in your current kit...

With the long shafts, use the short ball cups. The long shock ends will limit the stroke too much, IMHO.

Thanks for the info.

so, are all the shock bodies the same length, with the shock shafts different lengths between mini and short shocks?

I can not find a detailed description on body and shaft lengths to compare.

If anyone knows where to find that info, or already has it handy that would be nice.

if body lengths are different, I might just order a new set and keep what I have on my M-05v2.

There are 3 lengths of piston rods now? Shoot, I thought they were either 26 or 28. I put some 28mm ones into my big bore dampers. Seems to look okay, arms drop below level when droop screws are backed out, but I haven't even had tires on the thing yet.

28mm shafts in BB's do look about right, but would be fully extended at RH, then the shock piston is at the very bottom of the shock body, not optimum.
I haven't tried the TC shock bodies, which are a few mm longer than the mini bodies, and should work with the 28mm shafts. Please report back if you experiment...

so is the M07 that much of a improvement? is it noticeable? since i'm really curios about just the driving/handling characteristics over the M05 from the video's it looks for planted that i have seen.

I did some more reading and it looks like the M-07 is using standard length touring car length shocks?

What I find funny is many of the new tc cars are going to mini shocks to lower the cg, which will really mix up and confuse people.

I have a 417, and an evo-6, 5400 mini shocks and the mini big bores at home.
I guess I can take one of each apart and measure the shafts and bodies if that would help anyone.

ever mind. Found an answer.

removed

Is that the kit settings for rear toe? Looks like a LOT of toe in.

run a NIMH battery. the extra weight sticks the m05 down nice and good. you might not have as much grunt as a lipo but at least you keep it shiney side up for the whole race

Or stick with a LiPo and throw some stick-on weight on the car.

There is an optical illusion there because the camera is close to the car. But there is more toe-in available on the M-07. Kit build is for 3.2 degrees.

On the topic of shocks, it is a bit odd that Tamiya have decided to base it around an "in-between" shock length that can only be made by combining parts or adding spacers. I have both types available so if (when ) I get an M-07 I will be able to play around to get the best setup.

On the topic of speed, we had two M-07s at our last club meeting. Small carpet track. One racer seemed to make a big step forward compared to his M-05, the other seemed to be a little bit back from where he was previously but he did have some issues with his motor. Both were built entirely as per kit. My M-05 couldn't match the cornerspeed of the M-07s but it was a layout that needed a lot of braking and I am not very good at that.

Actually in the options page (p.27) of the manual it states the kit uses touring car length dampers, and if using mini length dampers they should be matched with 28mm long piston rods.



I guess I'm one that assumed it uses M-Chassis Dampers. When I was shopping for my FF03 I accidentally bought a set of M-Chassis aluminum dampers, and today when I picked up my M07 kit I bought a set of 42102 TRF Special Dampers intending to use them on the FF03. I guess I'll just extend the rods on the mini dampers