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Old 12-31-1969, 04:00 PM
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Tamiya TT02 Thread

Old 12-31-1969, 04:00 PM
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Old 05-05-2017 | 10:19 AM
  #1321  
LJH
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Originally Posted by (0000000000)
Thanks for the link. I'll be looking for my Dremel tool after I get home from work today.

What pitch gears are you running?

Curious.

Cheers,
Jim
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Old 05-05-2017 | 12:05 PM
  #1322  
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48P
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Old 05-05-2017 | 01:06 PM
  #1323  
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Originally Posted by (0000000000)
48P
If I did my math correctly that would be like a 47 tooth 64P pinion.

Am I the only one who read the article as meaning that you have to make clearance for 50T 64P and larger gears?

I will be curious how much you have to remove out of the cover to make room.

Cheers,
Jim
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Old 05-08-2017 | 09:00 AM
  #1324  
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Anybody have any luck with installing a 55T 48P spur?
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Old 05-08-2017 | 10:44 AM
  #1325  
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Originally Posted by Raman
I think I may have found a solution to run diff fluid in the current TT02 diff, by using the internal parts of the TRF419 diff.. eg diff out drives, cross pin, diff gears. For the O-ring I used the Xray 5x2 o-ring which is a little meatier than the 419 ones. I also placed two shims 0,2 and 0,3 (54589 ) on top of O-ring and then placed the cross pin.

http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/produ....asp?p_id=4908

Since the diff out drives are larger, you will need to add the outdrive protectors. Since there is no gasket between the gear and casing, I used associated green slime.

The mesh on the diff once assembled appears to be spot on, but only time will tell.
So I have had quite a bit of track time with this diff conversion and I opened it up to see the results. No Leaking at the out drives as a result of the installed orings

The diff internals were holding up well nicely. I did have some build up of diff fluid in the gear box, due to the lack of gasket, but it definitely has helped in reducing the diff action, over antiwear grease

At the suggestion of a top driver, I have coated the diff case with AE black grease (supposed to do a better job than green slime) to stop the leaking.

As for the drive, I was posting some impressive lap times running 21.5 / USGT tyres.
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Old 05-09-2017 | 05:48 AM
  #1326  
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Originally Posted by Raman
So I have had quite a bit of track time with this diff conversion and I opened it up to see the results. No Leaking at the out drives as a result of the installed orings

The diff internals were holding up well nicely. I did have some build up of diff fluid in the gear box, due to the lack of gasket, but it definitely has helped in reducing the diff action, over antiwear grease

At the suggestion of a top driver, I have coated the diff case with AE black grease (supposed to do a better job than green slime) to stop the leaking.

As for the drive, I was posting some impressive lap times running 21.5 / USGT tyres.
Raman,
Good to know the mod works. With that said what are you running for diff grease? This is my first foray into playing with diffs on RC cars and it intrigues me. When I built my TT02 I used a bit of 500K fluid in the front which added a bit of resistance compared to the rear, open, diff but is still pretty "open". To be perfectly honest I am not sure home much resistance I am looking for and I guess once I get the car running I can play around to see how different amounts of "lock" affect the handling.

Cheers,
Jim
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Old 05-09-2017 | 05:55 AM
  #1327  
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I heard back from Callie Graphics who I have used to do some custom graphics on a couple scale planes I have built, BTW, in my experience she does great work. I have given her the go ahead to make a set of graphics so that I can do a tribute to Hurley Haywood's RSR car, the white with red/blue stripes and not the original yellow car.

So much for a budget built but looking forward to seeing the end result.

Cheers,
Jim
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Old 05-09-2017 | 09:45 AM
  #1328  
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Originally Posted by LJH
Raman,
Good to know the mod works. With that said what are you running for diff grease? This is my first foray into playing with diffs on RC cars and it intrigues me. When I built my TT02 I used a bit of 500K fluid in the front which added a bit of resistance compared to the rear, open, diff but is still pretty "open". To be perfectly honest I am not sure home much resistance I am looking for and I guess once I get the car running I can play around to see how different amounts of "lock" affect the handling.

Cheers,
Jim
Jim,

I'm running 2.5 million in the front which makes it close to locked. In the rear, since I am on high traction carpet, I run 10k in the back.
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Old 05-09-2017 | 09:46 AM
  #1329  
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Originally Posted by LJH
I heard back from Callie Graphics who I have used to do some custom graphics on a couple scale planes I have built, BTW, in my experience she does great work. I have given her the go ahead to make a set of graphics so that I can do a tribute to Hurley Haywood's RSR car, the white with red/blue stripes and not the original yellow car.

So much for a budget built but looking forward to seeing the end result.

Cheers,
Jim
How much does she charge for printing? Can she print white on clear vinyl?
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Old 05-09-2017 | 10:02 AM
  #1330  
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Originally Posted by Raman
How much does she charge for printing? Can she print white on clear vinyl?
For the stripes down the side and over the hood and trunk was $25 shipped. She uses colored vinyl and then layers it if the coloring is a it more complicated . when I get home tonight I will take a couple pictures of one of the planes she did, it looks pretty darn good.

Cheers,
Jim
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Old 05-16-2017 | 11:57 AM
  #1331  
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Just about done. Wish I had a second go with the trim, but I did get better the more I did. With that said I think it looks pretty good.

I still have not run it yet, waiting on a couple more parts and I am seriously thinking of getting a new radio but it is pretty much good to go.

Cheers,
Jim
Attached Thumbnails Tamiya TT02 Thread-img_3735.jpg  
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Old 05-16-2017 | 01:13 PM
  #1332  
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Originally Posted by LJH
Just about done. Wish I had a second go with the trim, but I did get better the more I did. With that said I think it looks pretty good.

I still have not run it yet, waiting on a couple more parts and I am seriously thinking of getting a new radio but it is pretty much good to go.

Cheers,
Jim
Very nice. I love the Brumos paint scheme. So iconic. I painted one similar one on an HPI Porshe body once and plan to do so again one day. This body was on my tt-01.


Last edited by microed; 05-16-2017 at 01:32 PM. Reason: Added photo
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Old 05-17-2017 | 06:12 AM
  #1333  
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Originally Posted by microed
Very nice. I love the Brumos paint scheme. So iconic. I painted one similar one on an HPI Porshe body once and plan to do so again one day. This body was on my tt-01.

Sweet......

Yea, I have always been a fan of Brumos and especially Hurley Haywood. He is by far my favorite American driver of all times.


Cheers,
Jim
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Old 05-18-2017 | 08:22 AM
  #1334  
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She runs....Last night I hooked it up using my old AM radio and got everything set up. I had bought a Spectrum S6070 servo used knowing it had a click.....but the price was right even knowing the fact that I might have to buy a new gear set. Before I ordered a new gear set I took the servo apart and some of the gears did show some wear so I rotated the gears and put it back together and BOOM....no more click :-) and no play in the gearset.


Last night I put an older, though healthy, 2S 4000mah 30C pack on the charger and before work this morning I ran her for the first time. I have not received my Yeah Racing motor mount or gear set yet so still on the stock 8.27:1 FDR and she is a bit...ummm...lacking in speed (maybe 15MPH?), hoping that dropping the FDR to 4.35 will help a lot in the speed department. With that said I ran her up and down the street for 12 minutes and the motor/ESC were pretty much ambient temperature so it is under geared for sure, I have not charged the battery to see how many Mah were used. With that said she has plenty of punch off the line and I was able to induce throttle oversteer coming out of turns but it was very controllable.

Here is what I used in my build:
-TT02 Chassis shimmed to remove the slop but the arms still flop ;-). Built to high ground clearance spec.
-Full Bearings
-Yeah Racing 2* rear hubs
-Tamiya CVA Super Mini Shocks with yellow rear springs and stock silver friction shock front springs (Thinking the fronts may be too stiff). 40wt oil with the two hole piston all around.
-Spectrum S6070 Servo
-Novak Havoc Sport 17.5T System
-Front Diff Filled with 500K grease-shimmed
-Rear Diff with some Tamiya AW grease-Shimmed
-Kimbrough 201 servo saver

I am still waiting on the Yeah Racing motor mount, Speed tuned Gear Set, 64P spur and pinion for a 4.35:1 FDR, Adjustable front tie rod set all of which should be here any day. The stock steering rack has a serious amount of play so I may switch that out. I am also thinking of ordering some different wheels so that I do not ding the Fuch's up. If I did my math correctly the the stock wheels are either a 2 or 3MM offset so the fronts are easy but being a staggered setup with wider wheels on the back (31MM) I believe I would need a 26MM wheel with a 9MM offset so that the wheels fill out the rear fenders. For tires I am thinking of using the Gravity USGT tires, which are cheap and seem to get good reviews for use on tarmac. I also have a set of wheels with the HPI rally tires mounted if I decide to get off the tarmac.

I know the TT02 is not the most technically advanced chassis but I really had fun with the build and it should serve its purpose well for me being that it is fairly durable. Parts are easy to get, and that I could build it with a higher then normal ride height for use on less then perfect surfaces. I also love how the body came out.....

Cheers,
Jim
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Old 05-20-2017 | 10:51 AM
  #1335  
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Getting my TT02R ready for TCS racing. With the plastic shocks, what weight oil would you recommend?

It is outdoor asphalt, medium traction, and high temperature.
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