Ok so today I got another set of shock collars. The new collar went nice and snug just like the fronts. The package come 2 collars and 2 orings. So the issue is the collars not the shock bodies or the orings.

You should put it next to the servo. Cuts a foot off at the finishing line.

Edit...in front of the servo you'll see an empty spot on the chassis.

Is there such a thing as putting your tiers on to tight? If so what are the negative effects of doing so.

Do you mean locking the wheel nuts down tight?

It takes some experience wrenching on various things but eventually you know how tight to screw things into plastic before it cracks or strips and how tight to screw different size screws into metal before snapping off the head or stripping it etc. But since there is plastic involved I tighten it until it grabs snugly then go another 1/4 turn or so. You could technically crank it down hard enough to crack the plastic wheel. You want it just right

Well I suppose I should check into this thread now--I bought Jason B's EB48.4 this week and it arrived this evening. Jason really hooked me up and I couldn't be happier with it--thanks Jason!

This is my first "competition level" vehicle and I'm coming most recently from a Traxxas Slash 2WD. I've only had a chance to run it up and down the road a few times, but wow is this thing amazing. I'm hoping to get to the track tomorrow evening, but if not then definitely Saturday morning. Can't wait to really see what this thing can do on a proper track.

I'm sure I'll have questions soon enough, but just wanted to pop in and say hi. Will report back some thoughts after its first track outing!

yes that is what i mean

I've experienced issues with the enclosed wheel nuts bottoming out against the edge of the hub/axle causing them to loosen. The bigger concern with enclosed wheel nuts is if they become damaged / bent on the end of the wheel nut and give a false impression that the wheel is tight when in reality it is not.

For 1/8 scale I've always been able to crank the nut down as tight as I needed without any binding. I also use a little loctite on the threads for added security, though I believe the Tekno hubs come with loctite already.

I was just wondering because iv noticed that the inside of the tire rim seems to be taking off some of the hub carrier like scraping around it. Not sure if thats normal or im just tightening the nuts down to much but to me it doesint seem like i am. Also seems like i have a bit of play in all 4 hubs now "tire wobble" i guess but then again the hubs are plastic so i guess thats normal.

Depending on the wheel type I've seen wear on the rear wheels / hub carrier too, but it is usually pretty minimal.

What bodies will fit the EB48.4? Are the EB48.3 bodies interchangeable? Any better options other than the stock Tekno body?

You can use 48.3 bodies but there is a section you'll need to cut in order to let the steering rack move freely

Running an extension on the transponder I presume?

Yes