looks good !

Anyone else ever tighten their enclosed wheel nuts to the point where the wheel nut bottoms out on the end of the wheel hub? This can inadvertently cause the wheel nut to loosen and over tightening the wheel nut could cause a wheel to come off during a race. I'm going to file off a bit of material from the end of the threaded hubs to see if it helps, but was curious if others have done anything similar to this?

That's interesting, I am running those on my .4 without issue. First I've heard of it actually.

Getting back to setup discussion my kit arrives today. Race at a indoor clay track that's damp clay med/high grip and bumpy.

Kit diff oils? Or are people finding a better setup?

I think the issue develops as the wheel material around the 17mm hex/wheel nut wears out slightly from use. I lost a wheel mid race and this is the only thing that makes sense as to why it came off, wheel tightness was triple checked before it hit the track.

Painted body Tekno EB48.4 - https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0iJ0DiRHJFFnyP

As anyone had an issue with there back adjusting shock collars being really loose? It seems the O rings that go inside are smaller then the front ones no idea why. There extremely loose.

Did you use the wrong ones in the shock cap?

nice ! impressive radio !

Getting through the build... so far, so good... great fit/finish.

This is my first 1/8 scale, so not quite sure what the go-to wheels are. I see EVO by Avid, and various "83mm" wheels that advertise more forward traction. I'm going to be racing on med- to high bite clay. What's the best wheel choice?

I have the same issue.. fronts are fine.

On setup sheets it only shows front chassis brace as being checked..Only using one chassis bracke seems a bit risky?

Yea idk whats up with that....

Mine too...wondered the same thing when I was building it. My .3 had a couple that were tight too.