A trick that I've done in the past for ECS shafts is to add a sleeve of heat shrink around the coupler between the two shafts along with loctite on the screw. Even if the screw lets go the heat shrink keeps the pins in.

Never had an issue with the newest version of Xray shafts but I suppose there's always a possibility. I had a knack for tossing the spring clips on the brands I tried.

I've never had a screw come undone from a metal part or a driveshaft, even racing on asphalt where there are a lot of bumps and vibrations. I have however snapped the heads off a couple of titanium screws. The conclusion here is that I do things up bastard tight and they don't come undone. Screws cost very little compared to lost runs and broken DCJs.

I'd suggest just doing everything up tighter. To the point where you physically can't turn the wrench any more. (obviously don't do that in plastic parts...).

If you do need some DCJs, the Radtec ones are decent; I ran these until Xray started including theirs with the kits. They don't wear at all and I've never broken one.

Are 4 degree front hubs the norm these days? Looking to compete with the faster 13.5 boosted class outdoors and pretty much all setup sheets are running 4 degrees.

is there any give at the back which needs to be compensated for given the 'additional' steering up front?

4 degree blocks have been standard issue for a long time. What are you wanting your car to do that it isn't on your current setup?

is there even a solid alum chassis for the 17 model? I can't understand why you need flex on a carpet car especially if it's high grip

Yes there is should be xray part 301143, T4 2017 2mm solid alum chassis

Amain has them:

https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-t4...301143/p584617

https://www.shapeways.com/marketplace/tech/maker-diy/?tag=xray+t4+2017

Has anyone tried this.

They are in stock on my site. I'll have some with me at the birds as well.

EA

Nope - TM-style. not a bad idea if you ask me... have you?

Are you running the solid chassis at the Birds? Has anyone ran the solid chassis on crc blk high grip?

Does anyone add weight and where at to there chassis running in 21.5 vta class

adding weight will depend entirely on your specific setup IE batteries used, electronics / motor selected.

If you do need to add additional weight or "ballast" to the car, its first important to know how balanced your car already is from right to left. The Hudy pins are a cheap & quick way of measuring this. If your car is heavier on the battery side or the motor side, you'll want to add weight to the opposite side to help balance it out.



The most common places to add weight to either side of the car are next to the layshaft mounts in the rear, or under the steering links in the front. It is generally accepted that its better to add weight to the front, and work your way back as needed. Always mount your weights as low as possible, meaning on the chassis, as opposed to on top of batteries, servos, etc.



If your car is balanced between the right & left side without any extra weights, but you still need to add weight to make the minimum, its best to add the weights to the center of the chassis. Pro-Spec makes an 8g brass weight that fits perfectly underneath the center carbon link brace.

At the recent Stock Wars race at 360 raceway NY, most of the top drivers in TC were running the solid chassis. The track has the newest CRC Black Carpet with a full subfloor.

I also run the solid chassis at my local track, which also uses the CRC Black Carpet.

Need more entry and exit steering. I am currently running stock 0 degree hubs. thought 4 degree hubs might improve on that.