The 0 degree hubs are for the rear ARS suspension...

The 0 degree hubs are made for the rear end when running the ARS options. 4 degree blocks are definitely going to give you some more steering. You should post your setup so we can get you moving on the right track.

What did you notice going from the Flex aluminum chassis to the solid one? I am weighing picking up the solid chassis for 17.5 class running.

Does the '17 chassis plate fit on the '15? I crashed my '15 chassis and have to be replaced.

Looks like Ill be adding that at the 11th hour 🙂

Yes, but the '17 chassis has the RF suspension mounts moved slightly outwards, reducing toe in. You'll have to run a block that is 0.5 further inward than what you'd run on your '15 in order to achieve roughly the same rear toe angle.

The solid chassis numbs out the car a little bit compared to the carbon or flex and makes it much easier to drive. That's why a lot of guys are starting to run it on high grip black carpet. It just takes the edge out of the car.

The issue with adjusting the L/R balance with weights not far from the centerline is that it takes a LOT of extra weight to get to 50/50 L/R (as you load the already heavy side too...)... you want to add it as far away from the centerline as possible so you can get to 50/50 with as little weight as possible. unless you're under the limit of course

With the t4, most standard electronics (read: non lightweight lipos) will get you there "by design"

ok guys,

got kind of a newbish question. my car needs more off power steering and better rotation.
I've changed rear diff from 10k to 3k and that helped but it still needs more.

I order the FF brass to add more weight in front, right now I have 10 g weights on each side in the front .

Any obvious things I'm overlooking here?? Right now my back up car is better than this but I want to run this car.

Thanks.

~clueless in Orlando~

Some info on current setup and track conditions would certainly help.

-2 camber all around
2.5 springs in front 2.6 springs rear
shock position 2 front and rear
400 oil (from kit)
droop 6 front, droop 4.8 rear

camber washers in front 2 inside 2 outside
camber washers in rear 4 outside 0 inside

running flex chassis

brand new black crc carpet, track is very tight and technical.

2.5-2.8 front spring, more shim inside rear camber. 1.4f bar if not there. .4mm more rear droop.

If running '17, run center graphite brace.

What effect does running that prog spring up front achieve?
I'll put back the 2 mm on the rear shim and put rear droop to 5?

I am running the graphite brace with 2 screws only

More mid corner steering with prog spring, go with 4.4-4.6 rear droop.

Ok thanks!

What about roll centers on the bottom in the toe blocks?