Tekno MT410
#181
#182
Tech Addict
iTrader: (17)
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 685
From: Ramona, CA
I made a little chart for deciding on my motor, depending on tire sizes, see below. Anything over 1700kv will result in a minimum of over 50 mph no-load gearing with >150 mm diameter tires because of the minimum 14T pinion and max 44T spur. You won't be able to gear a 2200kv on 6S for under 60 mph unless you get small tires.


#184
| + https://youtu.be/oQNwBCmgAzQ" title="View this video at YouTube in a new window or tab" target="_blank">YouTube Video | |
| + https://youtu.be/Bm6sAH-iFi8" title="View this video at YouTube in a new window or tab" target="_blank">YouTube Video | |
YOUTUBE tags aren't working... oh well
#185
Tech Adept
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 109
From: Lisbon, Connecticut
| + https://youtu.be/oQNwBCmgAzQ" title="View this video at YouTube in a new window or tab" target="_blank">YouTube Video | |
| + https://youtu.be/Bm6sAH-iFi8" title="View this video at YouTube in a new window or tab" target="_blank">YouTube Video | |
YOUTUBE tags aren't working... oh well

Good to see it's up and running. You liking the ET chassis better?
#186
Tech Addict
iTrader: (17)
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 685
From: Ramona, CA
| + https://youtu.be/oQNwBCmgAzQ" title="View this video at YouTube in a new window or tab" target="_blank">YouTube Video | |
| + https://youtu.be/Bm6sAH-iFi8" title="View this video at YouTube in a new window or tab" target="_blank">YouTube Video | |
YOUTUBE tags aren't working... oh well
Mind if I ask where this is? See the golf course but looks familiar territory wise.
#187
| + https://youtu.be/oQNwBCmgAzQ" title="View this video at YouTube in a new window or tab" target="_blank">YouTube Video | |
| + https://youtu.be/Bm6sAH-iFi8" title="View this video at YouTube in a new window or tab" target="_blank">YouTube Video | |
YOUTUBE tags aren't working... oh well
Excellent! Looks great!
Have you jumped it yet?
#189
Sweet!
The body looks great too.
Mine arrived today. Going to crack the box open and see what's inside for me.
#190
@ cmbscx10: Somehow I can't attach the spreadsheet to PM, so I'll post it here. Website does not allow for .xlsx attachements, so rename extension from .txt to .xlsx and have fun
. Parameters on the left-hand-side is input, right-hand-side are the results (except for ERPM, which still needs pole pairs to be specified, never bothered to add that).
For anyone interested, feel free to use, modify and distribute; if there's any questions, let me know.
. Parameters on the left-hand-side is input, right-hand-side are the results (except for ERPM, which still needs pole pairs to be specified, never bothered to add that).For anyone interested, feel free to use, modify and distribute; if there's any questions, let me know.
#192
Tech Addict
iTrader: (14)
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 621
I got home early last night and pretty much finished up the whole thing aside from maybe a couple hours of loctiting and setting up suspension. I think it's pretty interesting how some little things are completely different to my Mugen or other race kits I've own/driven before. All in a good way.
I did, however, have a couple issues with my kit with no fault to Tekno I'm sure. The manual doesn't really mention sanding plastic parts for the shocks. I was able to get 3 out of 4 smooth as silk. For the life of me, I couldn't get the first shock I built to free up as nicely. Also, I hate threading rod ends. I usually start by hand and after 10 of them on this kit in one night, my hands hurt like a *****. I'm very impressed with the quality of the kit. Like I said, I think the way you remove the plastic shock parts from the sheets may help with smoothing out the individual shock. Machining is all very tight so I might just need to tear down the first shock and make sure there's no plastic bump somewhere creating friction.
I did, however, have a couple issues with my kit with no fault to Tekno I'm sure. The manual doesn't really mention sanding plastic parts for the shocks. I was able to get 3 out of 4 smooth as silk. For the life of me, I couldn't get the first shock I built to free up as nicely. Also, I hate threading rod ends. I usually start by hand and after 10 of them on this kit in one night, my hands hurt like a *****. I'm very impressed with the quality of the kit. Like I said, I think the way you remove the plastic shock parts from the sheets may help with smoothing out the individual shock. Machining is all very tight so I might just need to tear down the first shock and make sure there's no plastic bump somewhere creating friction.
#193
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (36)
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 829
From: D.C. metro area
I got home early last night and pretty much finished up the whole thing aside from maybe a couple hours of loctiting and setting up suspension. I think it's pretty interesting how some little things are completely different to my Mugen or other race kits I've own/driven before. All in a good way.
I did, however, have a couple issues with my kit with no fault to Tekno I'm sure. The manual doesn't really mention sanding plastic parts for the shocks. I was able to get 3 out of 4 smooth as silk. For the life of me, I couldn't get the first shock I built to free up as nicely. Also, I hate threading rod ends. I usually start by hand and after 10 of them on this kit in one night, my hands hurt like a *****. I'm very impressed with the quality of the kit. Like I said, I think the way you remove the plastic shock parts from the sheets may help with smoothing out the individual shock. Machining is all very tight so I might just need to tear down the first shock and make sure there's no plastic bump somewhere creating friction.
I did, however, have a couple issues with my kit with no fault to Tekno I'm sure. The manual doesn't really mention sanding plastic parts for the shocks. I was able to get 3 out of 4 smooth as silk. For the life of me, I couldn't get the first shock I built to free up as nicely. Also, I hate threading rod ends. I usually start by hand and after 10 of them on this kit in one night, my hands hurt like a *****. I'm very impressed with the quality of the kit. Like I said, I think the way you remove the plastic shock parts from the sheets may help with smoothing out the individual shock. Machining is all very tight so I might just need to tear down the first shock and make sure there's no plastic bump somewhere creating friction.
I also found upgrading to Delrin shock cartridges well worth it--machined parts make it a lot smoother--but I guess not really necessary for an MT.
Last edited by Stanford55; 12-03-2016 at 01:56 PM.
#194
I was going to purchase one of these and put the truggy chassis on it but I won a brand new ET48.3 in a facebook sticker sale today! I need to decide if I should order the shorter towers and shock bodies so that I can fit the body post mounts on or try to rig up some kind of body mounts that will work with the Truggy towers? I
l already have an unpainted f650 body and src belted tires but I'll probably get some badlands since the SRCs don't work that great in the grass.
Edit: looks like the shock bodies have the same part number as the ET
l already have an unpainted f650 body and src belted tires but I'll probably get some badlands since the SRCs don't work that great in the grass.
Edit: looks like the shock bodies have the same part number as the ET
#195
Tech Regular
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 273
From: Lahore, Pakistan
Correct me if i'm wrong, but a potential "Conversion Kit" for ET48 --> MT410 would consist of:
1) MT410 shock towers
2) MT410 body posts/mounts
3) Body
4) Tires
5) Thicker oils
So if I own an ET48 already, I just need to get the mt towers and body posts (given that I dont want a shorter chassis) and im good to go?
FYI: FOR PEOPLE WHO DONT WANT THE SHORTER CHASSIS***
1) MT410 shock towers
2) MT410 body posts/mounts
3) Body
4) Tires
5) Thicker oils
So if I own an ET48 already, I just need to get the mt towers and body posts (given that I dont want a shorter chassis) and im good to go?
FYI: FOR PEOPLE WHO DONT WANT THE SHORTER CHASSIS***



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