Go Back  R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road
Tamiya TT02 Thread >

Tamiya TT02 Thread

Community
Wiki Posts
Search
Old 12-31-1969, 04:00 PM
R/C Tech Forums Expert How-Tos and Guides
Last edit by:
Print Wikipost
Like Tree1387Likes

Tamiya TT02 Thread

Old 12-31-1969, 04:00 PM
R/C Tech Forums Expert How-Tos and Guides
Last edit by:
Print Wikipost
Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 05-24-2016 | 08:31 PM
  #916  
rcmadkiwi's Avatar
Tech Adept
iTrader: (3)
 
Joined: May 2016
Posts: 207
From: Reality
Default

All I can say about the tt-01d is don't waste your money on all of the aluminium & carbon fibre upgrades. I got one off a guy who spent a small fortune who was gutted to find it didn't hold its value. Also had the XB Coppermix Silvia & didn't notice much difference once balanced with added weights. I had no idea how rubbish this model was until I got something much better but are glad I learnt with the Tamiya first.
rcmadkiwi is offline  
Old 05-24-2016 | 08:36 PM
  #917  
surensm's Avatar
Tech Rookie
 
Joined: May 2016
Posts: 14
Default

Originally Posted by rcmadkiwi
All I can say about the tt-01d is don't waste your money on all of the aluminium & carbon fibre upgrades. I got one off a guy who spent a small fortune who was gutted to find it didn't hold its value. Also had the XB Coppermix Silvia & didn't notice much difference once balanced with added weights. I had no idea how rubbish this model was until I got something much better but are glad I learnt with the Tamiya first.
I haven't had anything break, so I don't see a need for aluminum and cf bits. How bad must I hit a curb for something to break to render a sturdier part? I'm assuming the stock torque motor won't allow the car to go fast enough to do such damage, so this must be for cars with upgraded motors?
surensm is offline  
Old 05-24-2016 | 11:30 PM
  #918  
rcmadkiwi's Avatar
Tech Adept
iTrader: (3)
 
Joined: May 2016
Posts: 207
From: Reality
Default

Originally Posted by surensm
I haven't had anything break, so I don't see a need for aluminum and cf bits. How bad must I hit a curb for something to break to render a sturdier part? I'm assuming the stock torque motor won't allow the car to go fast enough to do such damage, so this must be for cars with upgraded motors?
Can't say I crashed the brushed car (sport tuned motor) into anything hard enough the foam bumper couldn't cope with. It took a bit of playing with gearing to do the same with a brushless combo. Thankfully it went into the plastic car first as alloy doesn't bend & CF is rather brittle on hard impact. The wife had a Mugen Seiki MBX6 Eco which was an awesome buggy but didn't do well crashing. You're right to stick with the plastic for obvious reason when well versed in common sense like surensm. Save the money for a decent brushless combo & lipo/balance charger that isn't cheap/nasty Chineese rubbish. I started off with that too, thought it was alright - until I invested in something else wisely.
rcmadkiwi is offline  
Old 05-25-2016 | 04:18 AM
  #919  
warwick's Avatar
Tech Rookie
 
Joined: May 2016
Posts: 11
From: south auckland
Default

My tt02 hpi mustang body and a mixture of Jaz rider and yeah racing suspension parts

Tamiya TT02 Thread-edited_1452547591437.jpg

Last edited by warwick; 05-25-2016 at 04:56 AM.
warwick is offline  
Old 05-25-2016 | 04:23 AM
  #920  
warwick's Avatar
Tech Rookie
 
Joined: May 2016
Posts: 11
From: south auckland
Default

I found it was easy to break the bottom of the front upright when I went brushless.the extension through the lower arm can catch on things.
warwick is offline  
Old 05-25-2016 | 11:21 AM
  #921  
Tech Adept
 
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 108
Default

Let us not forget that this is the tt-02, not the tt-01 thread. Don't want to confuse any newbies that might think some of the tt-01 complaints in here are about the tt-02.
microed is offline  
Old 05-25-2016 | 12:39 PM
  #922  
warwick's Avatar
Tech Rookie
 
Joined: May 2016
Posts: 11
From: south auckland
Default

can some one help me? has any one have any idea what the ball bearing is for with the Jazrider brake disc hubs?

Tamiya TT02 Thread-b_1_10_brake_disc-wm.jpg
warwick is offline  
Old 05-25-2016 | 01:05 PM
  #923  
JD Skyline's Avatar
Tech Adept
 
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 158
From: Tamiya County
Default

Originally Posted by wtcc
Surprisingly neutral. With the box tires you get understeer on corner entry and a little on power oversteer. But nothing uncontrollable. With standard racing tires the car is on rails, but the fun in a group of racers is much greater with the box tires.
You also can run the car much flatter than a T4 for example. So it looks even more realistic.
Thanx for the feedback. Really appreciate it. Need a new body for my TT clubracer....
Was thinking about the GTR or the concept NSX.
You know how the NSX handles?
JD Skyline is offline  
Old 05-25-2016 | 04:16 PM
  #924  
rcmadkiwi's Avatar
Tech Adept
iTrader: (3)
 
Joined: May 2016
Posts: 207
From: Reality
Default

Originally Posted by microed
Let us not forget that this is the tt-02, not the tt-01 thread. Don't want to confuse any newbies that might think some of the tt-01 complaints in here are about the tt-02.
Yeah sorry about that, however the comments about the alloy & carbon fibre are just as valid with the new chassis & I'd quite happily have a Tamiya drifter if it was that or nothing. I was just lucky that a friend was getting rid of something better & could afford it at the time. There's plenty of expensive top quality racing chassis on the market so there's always going to be something much better than a tt-01/tt-02 - just to put it correctly into perspective.
rcmadkiwi is offline  
Old 05-25-2016 | 10:36 PM
  #925  
wtcc's Avatar
Tech Elite
iTrader: (2)
 
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 2,033
From: Germany
Default

@JD Skyline:
I haven't driven the NSX body yet.
My guess is that the Super GT bodies (GT500 class) come out pretty equal in terms of balance and performance. The Lexus RC-F looked pretty much the same in close racing.

About the breaking issues:
The TT-02 is my first plastic car. And so far it appears to be pretty bulletproof. We had some hard crashes when parking-lot-racing and the car took it without damage. In comparison to my T4'15; I wouldn't be sure that the Xray is tougher...
wtcc is offline  
Old 05-31-2016 | 09:56 AM
  #926  
JD Skyline's Avatar
Tech Adept
 
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 158
From: Tamiya County
Default

Originally Posted by wtcc
@JD Skyline:
I haven't driven the NSX body yet.
My guess is that the Super GT bodies (GT500 class) come out pretty equal in terms of balance and performance. The Lexus RC-F looked pretty much the same in close racing.

About the breaking issues:
The TT-02 is my first plastic car. And so far it appears to be pretty bulletproof. We had some hard crashes when parking-lot-racing and the car took it without damage. In comparison to my T4'15; I wouldn't be sure that the Xray is tougher...
Thanx again for your reply. I definitely will go for the Nissan ahum...the SKYLINE haha...will use it for the Tamiya cup...and club competition.
JD Skyline is offline  
Old 05-31-2016 | 01:42 PM
  #927  
eR1c's Avatar
Tech Elite
iTrader: (2)
 
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 2,479
Default

All I can say about the tt-01d is don't waste your money on all of the aluminium & carbon fibre upgrades. I got one off a guy who spent a small fortune who was gutted to find it didn't hold its value. Also had the XB Coppermix Silvia & didn't notice much difference once balanced with added weights. I had no idea how rubbish this model was until I got something much better but are glad I learnt with the Tamiya first.
I have the TT02, but...
I haven't bought any upgrades for my TT02, -other than what I think based on experience w/ other Tamiya kits would be most needed. Aluminum steering upgrade, aluminum motor mount and CV joints for the front axles. Otherwise keeping it stock (but my stock kit came w/ a lot of aluminum and fiber towers, etc... ) -so I think i've spent about $140 total including the kit and will have a pretty nice drive-able basher that shoulld handle quite well. By the way I only purchase upgrades for performance not bling ...
TheOtherBill likes this.

Last edited by eR1c; 05-31-2016 at 03:26 PM.
eR1c is offline  
Old 05-31-2016 | 05:20 PM
  #928  
rcmadkiwi's Avatar
Tech Adept
iTrader: (3)
 
Joined: May 2016
Posts: 207
From: Reality
Default

Originally Posted by eR1c
I only purchase upgrades for performance not bling ...
There's nothing better than wiping the smirk off someone's face who has just assumed theirs is better than yours. Especially when I'm running an older chassis to this years.
rcmadkiwi is offline  
Old 06-01-2016 | 03:31 PM
  #929  
Tech Initiate
 
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 34
From: New England
Default

Hey folks. So I finally have my 02 pretty well sorted out, and with the 17.5 justock and low FDR (thanks again for help there) it's running really nice as a fun time basher.

I went and ordered HPI D compound X tires, and they're great - but - I ordered 0 offset wheels, and evidently the kit wheels are more like 2mm offset (i think).

Lesson learned with my wallet, AGAIN.

I'm going to convert the body to a VTA style, and wheels/tires. I know the VTA bodies are generally 200mm, so once I again I'm worried about buying the wrong stuff. Sorry to ask for another favor, but does anyone know the actual part numbers for a set of HPI wheels and tires that would work offset wise, and be legal for VTA class?

I know they come in different finishes and such, but if someone could provide an example I'm sure I can use it to sort out the choices. I don't want to blow another $40 bucks on the wrong thing.

Thanks again everyone!
steve_pss is offline  
Old 06-01-2016 | 08:18 PM
  #930  
rcmadkiwi's Avatar
Tech Adept
iTrader: (3)
 
Joined: May 2016
Posts: 207
From: Reality
Default

Originally Posted by steve_pss
Hey folks. So I finally have my 02 pretty well sorted out, and with the 17.5 justock and low FDR (thanks again for help there) it's running really nice as a fun time basher.

I went and ordered HPI D compound X tires, and they're great - but - I ordered 0 offset wheels, and evidently the kit wheels are more like 2mm offset (i think).

Lesson learned with my wallet, AGAIN.

I'm going to convert the body to a VTA style, and wheels/tires. I know the VTA bodies are generally 200mm, so once I again I'm worried about buying the wrong stuff. Sorry to ask for another favor, but does anyone know the actual part numbers for a set of HPI wheels and tires that would work offset wise, and be legal for VTA class?

I know they come in different finishes and such, but if someone could provide an example I'm sure I can use it to sort out the choices. I don't want to blow another $40 bucks on the wrong thing.

Thanks again everyone!
If you decide they're not the right fit for your car Tamiya Super Driftech tires are worth trying but any made with ABS are going to be pretty good. If you're running brushless & want something different rubber slicks are a lot of fun. They just don't last as long.
rcmadkiwi is offline  


Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2026 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.