hello, has anyone experimented with the aluminum idle gear in rear motor setup (i know the kit says not to use this in rear morot setup)? i have stripped the hard coated plastic one just once but still this should not be happenig...!!! defenitely unacceptable especially for a premium priced kit, not to mention what happens in the mid motor setup

I have ... All it did was destroy the topshaft . The plastic KYOUMW513 gear lasted longer . My best results have been from running the sp idler and the carbon KYOUMW504C gearbox. Also I run my gearbox bone dry otherwise dirt and debri just sticks to everything tearing it up faster. Don't ask me how it gets in their but it does .Still cant believe a kit this expensive has such a week transmission

Take the entire transmission apart and use a toothbrush to clean the dif gear, top shaft gear and any remaining idler gears that you plan to use after shredding one. The plastic bits from a roasted idler can lodge themselves in the grooves of other gears causing the gears to have too tight a mesh in certain spots, this essentially causes a bind and will continue to eat idlers up as they are the weakest gear between the dif and top shaft.

Dirt easily finds its way in a trans case from the out drives which are literally spinning and channeling small bits of dirt in to the trans case. A touch of black grease on a cleanly built trans can assure smooth gear operation in my experience and does not attract the dirt as it's going to be present with or without lubrication.

Thanks for the reply, well i better not use it as well. It is really annoying for a kit priced that high. Anyway, does the carbon gearbox offers better stiffness and protection from dust? As my last resort i am thinking of going to a precision machinist to make metal gears all the way!!!

I run my SC6 in mid motor configuration and use a Schelle Aluminum Top Shaft, 2x Kyosho Aluminum Idler Gear (KYOUMW718), and the MIP Plastic Differential Gear. Yes, the Kyosho instructions do not recommend this configuration, but I was tired of stripping the plastic Kyosho SP Ider Gear (KYOUMW513). Kyosho should have put stronger plastic idler gears in these 6 series cars instead of using parts from the previous generation of cars. That is my one beef with Kyosho and how they always do this. Anyways, I put black grease all over the gears to provide lubrication. I have had NO issues running my SC6 this way for the past 6 months. I race quite a bit and run an 8.0T motor in my truck on a high bite track. I rebuilt my differential last weekend and examined all the gears. There was no noticeable wear on the gears. Save yourself money and go full aluminum idler gears. If/when the aluminum ones wear out, you go buy two new ones. Simple as that. Personally, I don't have the patience or time to deal with this design flaw. Further to this, I also saw pics that Jared Tebo does the same idler gear setup as me.

I still carry a completely assembled spare transmission (with 2x aluminum idler gears) in case of emergencies (habit from stripping so many plastic idler gears). I would recommend my setup as long as you make sure the gears in the transmission have some sort of lubrication (black grease). Not sure how you guys are getting dirt inside your transmissions cases. My track is an indoor track so there is less dust.

Trans picks up dirt the same way shocks and every other moving part does on a car running on dirt. Dirt can be on the micro level and easily accumulate after a period in the trans case. It's very common.

Thanks for the information!

Run a thin bead of shock oil on your gear box's mating seam. When assembled the tad bit of oil really seals the gearbox. I also run a tad bit of oil or grease in my gearbox's bearing pockets before installing the bearings, thus also helps seal the gear box from micro debri.

I have been running for a good 4 or 5 months since I carefully rebuilt and lubed my gearboxes. My Mod with a 7.5 is fast and quiet, the 17.5 is super fast and silent. SP gears with care are also good.

Gonna give this a try, very good idea and it is time for me to do some maintenance on the SC6s.
Both have been great and competitive as of late.

The thread has been quiet.

Yeah mines getting a refresh. SC is making a huge comeback in my area, I'm excited.

Agreed this thread has been quiet. You will like what running a tad bite of oil/grease on the gearbox mating seam as well as the same in you gearboxes bearing pockets. I go to rebuild my ball diff and I have absolutely no dirt or debri what so ever within.

Anybody have a nice set up per low bite, bumpy, hard packed dirt conditions. Medium large track with long straits, technical, med jumps. I running mid motor config. Just rebuilding full gear box and my ball diff. I mistakenly only ordered 1 alum. idler thus wondering if I should run double white idlers or run white idler, alum? I have not had issues with idlers however this primarily runs on low bite dirt conditions.

Wondering if I should try 30 kick up.

Thank you

I missed out on club racing this week so my SC6s will benefit from a drivetrain freshen up. Buggies are next.

I have been experimenting with track width on my Mod truck and it likes a wider rear. My track was medium traction dirt with some sugar last week but it gains grip each race day. Has anyone else played around with alternate hexes and increased their rear track width? Any thoughts?

Thanks for the input my friend. I think I am going to try some wider hexes. Makes sense, in thinking I will keep my hangers in their far inner position.

Have you tried adding a little more caster via the inserts in the C hubs? I may try 2 degrees.

I am B in out back and just swapped in some avid axles so I am running their stock width hexes until I can machine the wider set to fit.

Not much has been done with the front end but the added caster may work with my setup. I am going to try it on the Mod truck the next race night and see what happens.

How are you running your hingepin block, 25 or 30?