I have my front block at 30 degrees with another 2 in the caster inserts.

Turns out my orphan was set up with the 4' inserts and haven't really touched the spectacular setup I inherited for a reason. It worked. You got me thinking and what I found was bumpsteer changed with the caster adjustments and it wasn't changed at the steering block. Mine had the stock 2mm spacer under the outer steering link ballstud. I went to 4mm and found an improvement. I took a tenth off fast lap and was able to relax a bit and get deeper into the throttle. It felt less on edge at the edge.

My plan is to practice some Saturday when I go to setup for a big Sunday event. I need a bit more wheel time, 15 minutes was great but I need to run a few packs through to get a good feel for the changes. The track I race had a redo almost 2 months ago and it has really shaped up and taken on some rubber.

Nice! Yes with 30 degree kick up and the 4 degree caster inserts adding am extra 2mm to your bunpsteer should help big time. I really like how the truck runs with the 30 degree kick up and added caster. Really tames the steering down and the CR flys through bumps and jumps perfect. My backend is nice and planted as well.

Good luck at your big race my friend.

I wanted to see if anyone has a mid motor sc6 setup for Arizona outdoor hardpack. The surface quickly dries leaving half the track with a slightly dusty bumpy groove and the other half is semi swept dirt over hardpack. 6000mah stick and a 10.5 turn. I was going to try medium open cell inserts with something like a panther raptor for some extra traction. It's coming Wednesday setup mid motor with dirt webs but I should have some subcultures the same day. That night is practice/race night so I'm pretty excited since I've only ever bashed with a rc8t. Seems like I'm building a unicorn but I'd like to try. Thank you.

Hey guys I'm fairly new to the forum got back into the hobby after many many years, I've ran a few 17.5 stock buggy races thus far with a Losi 22 3.0(I know yuk lol) but wanted to get into short course the (right way) and I picked up an sc6 off the for sale forums here. I am going to be running the truck in 17.5 stock again and was wondering if it was wise to eliminate the slipper assembly on this truck as I did on the Losi. I've been reading this thread and I am seeing people having problems with idler gears etc. I was thinking of purchasing the exotek slipper eliminator. Before I spend the money What do you guys think? Thanks in advance!

If you are going to run 17.5, you could go either way as it is all about feel when it comes to slipper/no slipper. I would recommend the Exotek Direct Spur Mount and trying it to see if you like how the car feels. Some people prefer a little bit of slip and some don't. I have the Exotek Direct Spur Mount on my Yokomo YZ-2 DT and like the feel.

I would also recommend getting the Exotek Alloy Differential Nut as the equivalent Kyosho part is inferior. I would also recommend to stay away from the popular MIP "Pucks" System for the SC6 as MIP has completely dropped support for Kyosho cars.

I have a mod motor in my SC6 so my advice on idler gears might be different from people who run a stock motor due to the power differences. In my experience, if you are going to use either a 3 gear or 4 gear transmission, I would use the Kyosho Aluminum Idler Gear (UMW718) throughout the transmission and forget using the Kyosho SP Idler Gear (UMW513). As long as you have the gears greased inside the transmission, the metal on metal contact between the top shaft and idler gear(s) is not an issue. I rebuilt my differential this week and after cleaning all the grease from the internals of the transmission, there was no noticeable wear on any of the components. I have not stripped an idler gear in months since converting to all aluminum idler gears and the DNFs have stopped.

Thank you very much, I think I am going to need all the luck I can get. Tech duties fall to me so I will be super busy but I will race the SC6s and maybe the 17.5 buggy depending on how many racers show up.

Jumping has been a dead on, last race night my only bad landings were from wild experimentation or pure driver error. My preference is for loads of steering and we have it. It runs so smooth, quiet and composed with a little chassis slap from a light spring setup. One of the fast guys was Marshaling a fast corner and came to me after the race and said I came up and said so. The front end was better for me, the 17.5 truck is next. When I got it I think I copied the setup from my Mod truck. It's time to check and tune, practice tomorrow.


You have a PM.

So on the gears better to use the rb6 aluminum idle gears ????

In my experience, using aluminum idler gears (UMW718) throughout the transmission of your choice (3 or 4 gear), works the best. No more stripped gears and DNFs. Just make sure to put some grease on the gears.

+1 on the aluminum idlers. I just added another thus I have 2 in my 4 gear mid motor mod config. Added some Eureka pro lube to the all 4 gears and it's really smooth and really really quiet.

Part number for grease ??? And where can I buy it ?

Amain has Eureka Pro Lube. Honestly you don't want to wait on an order you could black grease or graphite grease,

Hey guys I'm getting a Sc6 and want some feedback on wether the truck has better rear grip in mid motor configuration or rear. I know it has a lot to do with set up, slipper,tires ect... I'm running a 8.5T and a regular 7.4 lipo pack on a outdoor packed clay track with light dust outside the groove.

Want to send it my way as well? Looking to try something new.

I have only run mine a couple times out doors, rear motor. Seems to have more steering than my SC5M.