What would happen if I locked the center differential? I have a brand new 811be Sport and haven't run it because I can't get the center differential to stop leaking. Anyway, can I lock it? With what? Go easy on the trigger perhaps when starting from a stop?

It would lock the wheels at an even 50/50 if the gearing is the same. I read about it although it's not good for racing other than an oval or going straight. I'll be bashing.

Is the 2.0 rear end worth the upgrade? I've thought about picking it up for my sport. What's the difference between the Be, 2.0 and 2.1?

Have diff putty coming in soon...

If you plan on racing the 2.0 upgrade would be worth it. I went from a 1.0 to a 2.1 and the 2.1 is so much better! If you are just bashing then I wouldnt bother spending the money.

I am having a problem with my front shocks leaking. I just rebuilt all of the shocks with new orings, but it looks to me like the front shocks have started leaking. I am not sure what else I could try to stop them from leaking. Does anyone have any ideas?
Also, what do people use to ream the arms? I bought a Hudy 4mm arm reamer but it did not ream the whole large enough.

What? You just named almost everything that would make his problem worse. He is suffering from too much weight transfer to the rear, giving him more traction on power in the rear, hence causing the push. Lengthening the wheelbase increases the weight transfer, increasing traction, causing a n even more pronounced push. A shorter wheelbase will decrease weight transfer to the rear, reducing traction and allowing him to reduce the understeer in the front. Increasing antiquat will also help resist weight transfer to the rear on power, helping reduce traction and allow you to increase your on power steering on corner exit, on power.

I am looking to pick up a new body for my 811e and was thinking of picking up the cab forward Serpent body. I was wondering if yall liked this body or if there was another body that is good? I am coming from the standard Serpent body. Thanks!

Leadfinger has a Nice Cab forward body

Your buggy looks good! I decided to pick up the LFR body. I am excited to have it painted and test it out!

LFR body is great!

Well actually we both dont know what problem he is suffering from because we are not with him racing on his track. He did say making the wheel base longer helped which does make the rear end drive softer so thats why I gave him the advise to make the rear end softer. Do you have a 811E?

I have raced this car the last 4 years, ran it on as many conditions as possible all over the country and seen as many people drive it as possible. The trait with this particular car is the rear end is the dominate end of the car. The front end being the weaker, normally most people make the mistake of making the rear end too stiff thinking it will gain on power steering where it is usually the opposite. If you start out with the front end too soft and the rear too stiff with a track that has decent traction it will push on power. Normally how you can tell is when you are entering a turn you will see the front collapse more than other cars and the rear end stays way up in the air. This actually makes the car push off power because the front end is too soft. Then when you hit the gas since the rear end is too stiff there is no weight transfer to the rear the car pushes on power. What you need to do to get on power steering is make the rear end dump over so you have weight transfer to essentially make the car sort of want to diff out but not so much that the car actually spins out. An easy way to see what is actually needed is to take the rear swaybar off. If you accelerate out of a turn and you do a donut then you need to make the rear end softer to gain on power steering. If your car pushes worse then you need to make it stiffer. If there is no change then the rear end is too stiff as well. Another good way to see what is going on is to drop the car on the bench and see what end of the car goes further into the travel, Most likely in his case it will be the front end, What i would suggest is stiffening up the front with oil and going lighter in the rear to make it drop even. This will get you closer. When cornering you want to the car to lean as level as possible from side to side. This will give you the best entering, middle and exit steering. Obviously if you jam on the brakes the front will dive more.

(To moderator; Realised that I posted in the wrong thread the first time =) )

Hi, new here

Considering to buy me a serious 1/8 and find Serpent RTR appealing. Obviously I compare with kits that are not assembled from factory and finally I found the "S811-Be Cobra RTR 2.0", but only under Download/Manual..? Part number shown in the manual for the car is "600006" = same as "Cobra 811 Be Buggy RTR EP 1/8 4wd"..? (not 2.0)

If the pictures and exploded views are correct for the "S811-Be Cobra RTR 2.0" it comes with better shocks and maybe some more candy. However I can't find 2.0 RTR EP in any store and I can't find the product at the Serpent website except the actual manual, does 2.0 RTR EP exists?

This is the manual I refer to, ad H to the url:

ttp://serpent.com/file.php?FileID=6274

At this page, the one in top of the list under Downloads:

ttp://serpent.com/product/600006/downloads/

I've sent e-mail to Serpent and the official reseller in Sweden but no luck so far

Regards

Hi guys! First I would like to apologize for my english, because it is not my native language.. So Im sorry for mistakes.
Could someone help me with shock setup? I've owned last version Serpent Cobra BE RTR (based on the current version 2.1).
My option is 6 holes and 1,2mm, V2 springs rear and front (both purple), 425 CST shock oil front and 350 CST oil rear.. What do you thing about this setup for track? Or what do you recommend?)
I have decided to participat in a hobby racing.. I know, I dont have maybe nothing special, mayby I will be last guy on the track and looser.. But never mind Stock engine (Dragon RC engine 1650?1850Kv?) is quite weak, so I gonna change it for LRP Dynamic 8 2250Kv with 14 pinion (track is smaller and technical). What do you mean about stock ESC 120A??? Should I also change stock ESC or there's no huge different between this one and for example SKY RC TORO 150A (fully programmable) and sensored ???
Can I race in hobby category with just only RTR or almost RTR set (LRP engine and SKY RC ESC)?
Thank you very much for your advices, tips and help!

It takes some time for me here in the beginning because moderator have to check my posts but I got an answer to my question =)

The S811 Be RTR 2.0 is the 600006 = same number as the older because "it was a running change of the car".

Well well now I just have to get an answer from the reseller so I get the 2.0 and not some shelf warmer collecting dust =)

While I was waiting for an answer, I compared the exploded views between the models, at least roughly:

811 RTR - S811 RTR 2.0

Differential assemblies - Same

Transmission center - Same

Rear assembly - 15 parts difference

Front assembly - Same

Steering assembly - Same

Radio assembly - Same

Shock assembly - 6 parts difference

Final assembly - Same

I dont any experience with the RTR, but I do know a 2250 KV motor is a lot of motor for even a large track. I wouldnt recommend running it on a small track certainly. If you want to change the motor out I would look at something around the 1900kv range. For a small track the motor you have now would probably be good.