Which way is the right way for mounting the center diff? The upper pic is from ET48.3 manual, below is from EB48.3 manual.



I mounted it like the manual says and don't think will find a pinion that will fit.
Should I turn it around?

Yes, you need to flip the diff and install as shown in the buggy manual.

That's a misprint, turn it around. The only reason to have it backwards like that is for Traktion Drive or Electri-Clutch slipper systems.

Thanks, everything clear now.

Gearing advice, please. I'm running a Hobbywing 1800 kv motor with the new HW XR8 ESC on 4S power. Punch is set at 5, timing at 1 (no advance timing). No turbo set. With an 18 tooth pinion it drives fast and responsive, but really hot, like 210 degrees when it comes off the track. 17 tooth is still pretty warm - 180ish but looks and feels slow so I don't want to go to a 16.

Bad motor maybe? How is everyone here gearing their trucks? Thanks for any help.

I know people have run the HobbyWing motors successfully in a lot of things (especially in short course), but the few people I knew in person that ran them in 8th scale back in Cali always complained they ran a lot hotter than others. That being said, folks like Ryan Lutz run 16 or 17 on 2000kv truggy motors, so your 16/17 should be about right, assuming you're on the truggy length HW motor. You should be able to turn punch down to 4 or 3 and get a little cooler, which may not even be noticed in performance based on how much torque truggy motors put out. Less wheel spin is cooler.

As with all heat issues, check for binding in the drive train too. The easiest way to do this is to just take off the pinion and roll the vehicle. If it rolls freely, at least the most common cases are good. Also check for things like notched outdrives or worn CVDs which may only bind up on suspension compression or full lock steering.

I run a Tekin RX8 ESC and Tekin 1900kv buggy motor. I use a 14t pinion which is what Tekno recommends for the 1900kv motor.

Thanks JustPoet and YouWish. I haven't found any binding or extra friction in the drive train, so maybe I'm just expecting too much out of this motor. I'll take the punch down a bit and go back to a 17 and see what happens.

I was at our local track yesterday (which shouldn't even be possible in December!) and was practicing with a few other truggies (a Losi, Durango and Associated). My Tekno was killing them on the turns and jumps, but they were absolutely eating my lunch on the straight until I went to the 18 pinion. I didn't ask them about their gearing 'cause it would have been apples and oranges. Who knows. Maybe they were running stupid-hot too.

Hello everyone!

We have decided to make a series of videos that will help everyone get the most out of their Tekno RC cars. One of the most frequent questions we have received is regarding the turnbuckles and what is the easiest method to build them. Here is a short video that will help you with that!

+ YouTube Video

so now that i ordered my truggy, im gona to run the latest Tekin setup esc/motor combo best made for truggies. my last concern is this 2S/4S/5S stuff. i want the best but also want whats affordable. can some please tell me or link me whats the best battery and charger? something simple as in a plug and play. i was looking at the Protek Rc batteries. sorry for the noob questions, im coming from nitro

Lots of choices...

I run this battery... http://www.smc-racing.net/index.php?...product_id=256

and charge it with this... http://www.amainhobbies.com/rc-cars-...k-8510/p260576

If you intend to race at large events, 4s is the way to go, as that is the ROAR legal way to do it, and probably the most common.

If you don't care, as most races don't, then 5s or 6s are options. They can run a little longer and a little more efficiently, but in truggy any extra torque and power isn't useful for racing as a typical 4s system is already overpowered.

Here's my suggestions for a 4s and 6s setup from Tekin as you mentioned being your brand of choice (which I also like). ProTek is a good brand of battery, but other options that perform well too are more affordable (such as SMC). You can get dirt cheap batteries too, but they don't work as well or hold up as long.

4s:
RX8 Gen2 and T8 Gen2 2000kv motor combo
SMC 4s 6700 Extended Length battery (suggested)
SMC 4s 5200 battery (super budget friendly)

6s:
RX8 Gen2 and T8 Gen2 1350kv motor combo
SMC 6s 4300 battery

Any decent charger will charge up to 6s. It is beyond that (used mainly by rc flight folks) where you need to make sure the specific charger can do it. I've used these Turnigy Reaktor chargers with good success from 2s-4s commonly, and a couple times on 6s to charge other people's packs. They are OEMd by Junsi, the folks who make the iChargers that many love. Those require a DC power supply, but if you want just 1 contained unit that plugs into the wall, this charger is the same thing with a built in power supply. I've also used the ThunderPower TP820 for a significant time and thought it worked well too. One of the common things that all of those chargers share is the ability to see the battery cell's IR measurements. That may not mean much to you right now (which is fine), but it becomes an easy way for you to look at a pack and know how healthy it is over time, or if 1 cell is starting to go bad, etc before something bad happens as a result.

Feel free to PM me with additional questions if you'd like. I'm more than happy to answer, but don't want to clutter this thread with a full charger discussion.

Hello all. Just wondering which chassis braces everyone is using. I'm currently using all 3, but is it safe to remove the middle brace to get a little more flex? I've removed the middle brace on my EB48.3 and like the feel, but is the Truggy chassis too long to remove the middle brace? Thanks for thoughts.

It is recommended to run all 3 braces on the truggy due to more weight and more length to affect flex. Not doing so will certainly give more flex, but may put other things like your electronics and drive train in danger due to that extra flex if you do something like lawn dart or case the top of a jump landing.

Hi there,

during the past days I have serviced the truggy, did some fine-tuning on the suspension, cleaned everything. Lately i have ripped another plastic spur gear (nr. 3), so I am thinking about the steel spur gears, cos' that's annoying.
After a little tuning and tweaking the truck was running great today. so far, I am quite happy with the car. Overall-quality is good.
What I dont't like is that the hinge pins have kinda poor quality and got bent a couple of times. For a truggy for that much money not ok. I have ordered some 4mm spring steel to make some reliable hinge pins.
I have heard about a couple of broken shock towers, something may not happen in this price range. I have damaged & bent my front shock tower, and fixed it with some 2 component glue and CFK (Uhu Endfest 300, my favourite glue).
Further I have bent a shock rod, might have been bad luck; on the other hand, I can't remember that I had such problems with my hobao.

Another problem might be the tkrbb05114 bearings in the differentials; for my thaste, they are too small, the ones from the rear diff have already been worn out causing some epxensive noise... I am thinking to get ceramic bearings there.

Next investment will be some tapered pistons from competitions suspension. In my last truggy (LRP/ZCar) I had some and was very happy with them.
I have put the tapered side to the top, like that the suspension literally sponged up the bumpy track, still quite stable.

At the moment I am running a x802l tenshock, which got quite hot, more or less. Then I have read to add one or two theeth, and yes, today the motor was definately cooler (21t pinion, 5s, 1750kv tenshock).

I have to check the weight, but it seems that the truggy is pretty light, which is also responsible for the good handling on the track.
florian