How to solder correctly (a not so brief lesson)
#452
#453
Just getting back to rc and tried soldering before reading this. I probably made enuff bb's to fill Ralphies Red Ryder Carbine-Action Two-Hundred-Shot Range Model Air Rifle. Haha.
So I went to Frys and got rosin flux, tinner/cleaner and 63/37 wire. Made it so much easier. A little more practice and Ill be ok. Thanks for this.
So I went to Frys and got rosin flux, tinner/cleaner and 63/37 wire. Made it so much easier. A little more practice and Ill be ok. Thanks for this.
#454
Just getting back to rc and tried soldering before reading this. I probably made enuff bb's to fill Ralphies Red Ryder Carbine-Action Two-Hundred-Shot Range Model Air Rifle. Haha.
So I went to Frys and got rosin flux, tinner/cleaner and 63/37 wire. Made it so much easier. A little more practice and Ill be ok. Thanks for this.
So I went to Frys and got rosin flux, tinner/cleaner and 63/37 wire. Made it so much easier. A little more practice and Ill be ok. Thanks for this.
#455
Tech Apprentice
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 97
hello
does solder go bad eventually if i switch between motors and unsolder motor nr1 and solder on motor nr2 frequently..?
removing old solder from the solder tabs on the motor is easy enough..
thinking more about the solder on the esc wires.. i cant cut the wires much because the wires are at a optimal distance.
i am using 63/37 solder and flux.
does solder go bad eventually if i switch between motors and unsolder motor nr1 and solder on motor nr2 frequently..?
removing old solder from the solder tabs on the motor is easy enough..
thinking more about the solder on the esc wires.. i cant cut the wires much because the wires are at a optimal distance.
i am using 63/37 solder and flux.
#456
hello
does solder go bad eventually if i switch between motors and unsolder motor nr1 and solder on motor nr2 frequently..?
removing old solder from the solder tabs on the motor is easy enough..
thinking more about the solder on the esc wires.. i cant cut the wires much because the wires are at a optimal distance.
i am using 63/37 solder and flux.
does solder go bad eventually if i switch between motors and unsolder motor nr1 and solder on motor nr2 frequently..?
removing old solder from the solder tabs on the motor is easy enough..
thinking more about the solder on the esc wires.. i cant cut the wires much because the wires are at a optimal distance.
i am using 63/37 solder and flux.
Solder itself does not go bad from use. As solder ages, it can tarnish and lose conductivity, but a little flux, and rework of the connection fixes that.
The biggest problem with constant reworking of a solder connection (like repeated motor swaps between chassis) can cause component damage. You can degrade the motor or ESC from repeated high heat exposure.
So be careful when soldering not to let heat spread far.
Or try to route wires in a way that allows you to remove the motor and ESC without needing to disconnect the wires.
#457
Tech Apprentice
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 97
Solder itself does not go bad from use. As solder ages, it can tarnish and lose conductivity, but a little flux, and rework of the connection fixes that.
The biggest problem with constant reworking of a solder connection (like repeated motor swaps between chassis) can cause component damage. You can degrade the motor or ESC from repeated high heat exposure.
So be careful when soldering not to let heat spread far.
Or try to route wires in a way that allows you to remove the motor and ESC without needing to disconnect the wires.
The biggest problem with constant reworking of a solder connection (like repeated motor swaps between chassis) can cause component damage. You can degrade the motor or ESC from repeated high heat exposure.
So be careful when soldering not to let heat spread far.
Or try to route wires in a way that allows you to remove the motor and ESC without needing to disconnect the wires.

I bought some 3.5mm orca motor bullets for that exact reason but i think motor bullets give more resistance maybe?
I use hakko 888d 70w (with 5mm tip) and i can remove the connection pretty fast so i dont think there is much heat that goes to the motor...I also always let things cool off before i desolder the next wire. The esc is safe as i hold the wires with my fingers when i remove the wires from the motor..not hot enough to burn my fingers..
Great solder iron!
#458
Thank you for info
I bought some 3.5mm orca motor bullets for that exact reason but i think motor bullets give more resistance maybe?
I use hakko 888d 70w (with 5mm tip) and i can remove the connection pretty fast so i dont think there is much heat that goes to the motor...I also always let things cool off before i desolder the next wire. The esc is safe as i hold the wires with my fingers when i remove the wires from the motor..not hot enough to burn my fingers..
Great solder iron!

I bought some 3.5mm orca motor bullets for that exact reason but i think motor bullets give more resistance maybe?
I use hakko 888d 70w (with 5mm tip) and i can remove the connection pretty fast so i dont think there is much heat that goes to the motor...I also always let things cool off before i desolder the next wire. The esc is safe as i hold the wires with my fingers when i remove the wires from the motor..not hot enough to burn my fingers..
Great solder iron!

While a connector can add a little resistance over bare wire... Solder does as well.
When people complain that these small changes in resistance are what cost them the race, it is just something to scapegoat. People that say they will never use connectors, it's all perception and that desire to try for that extra little edge.
So use a good quality connector and you will be fine.
#459
What a difference the irons make. I was struggling big time with a cheap $5 department store iron. I decided to spend a little more ($60) and got a cheap station off eBay. I can actually solder effectively now. Changed over all my battery, ESC and charge leads today. Something I would have never attempted before.
#460
What a difference the irons make. I was struggling big time with a cheap $5 department store iron. I decided to spend a little more ($60) and got a cheap station off eBay. I can actually solder effectively now. Changed over all my battery, ESC and charge leads today. Something I would have never attempted before.
#461
Tech Adept
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 170
From: Switzerland
Hello Marine, I want to thank you for your very educative script. I never really solder before and after one season of e-buggy, I realized I can't live without doing it.
Before I start to solder around I went checking for instructions on the internet, I found your post, i bought the equipment, I followed the instructions and I practiced on scrap wires.
First thing: yes, using flux made my life easier. I'm a total newbie but the help of flux is unquestionable. Tinning 10awg wires is faster and nicer with flux.
I want to share my first solder job. I changed motor on my xray and I took the occasion to change wires too.
The stock wires removal from the HW 150A esc was I nightmare. I totally broke the 6 sec rule. I broke it again to fit the new wires on the post. Dunno why I went for huge 10awg cables again... Came out a bit ugly but looks sound and it works.
Connection on the motor went smooth instead. I would like your opinion:

Thank you again Marine!
Before I start to solder around I went checking for instructions on the internet, I found your post, i bought the equipment, I followed the instructions and I practiced on scrap wires.
First thing: yes, using flux made my life easier. I'm a total newbie but the help of flux is unquestionable. Tinning 10awg wires is faster and nicer with flux.
I want to share my first solder job. I changed motor on my xray and I took the occasion to change wires too.
The stock wires removal from the HW 150A esc was I nightmare. I totally broke the 6 sec rule. I broke it again to fit the new wires on the post. Dunno why I went for huge 10awg cables again... Came out a bit ugly but looks sound and it works.
Connection on the motor went smooth instead. I would like your opinion:

Thank you again Marine!
#462
Hello Marine, I want to thank you for your very educative script. I never really solder before and after one season of e-buggy, I realized I can't live without doing it.
Before I start to solder around I went checking for instructions on the internet, I found your post, i bought the equipment, I followed the instructions and I practiced on scrap wires.
First thing: yes, using flux made my life easier. I'm a total newbie but the help of flux is unquestionable. Tinning 10awg wires is faster and nicer with flux.
I want to share my first solder job. I changed motor on my xray and I took the occasion to change wires too.
The stock wires removal from the HW 150A esc was I nightmare. I totally broke the 6 sec rule. I broke it again to fit the new wires on the post. Dunno why I went for huge 10awg cables again... Came out a bit ugly but looks sound and it works.
Connection on the motor went smooth instead. I would like your opinion:
Thank you again Marine!
Before I start to solder around I went checking for instructions on the internet, I found your post, i bought the equipment, I followed the instructions and I practiced on scrap wires.
First thing: yes, using flux made my life easier. I'm a total newbie but the help of flux is unquestionable. Tinning 10awg wires is faster and nicer with flux.
I want to share my first solder job. I changed motor on my xray and I took the occasion to change wires too.
The stock wires removal from the HW 150A esc was I nightmare. I totally broke the 6 sec rule. I broke it again to fit the new wires on the post. Dunno why I went for huge 10awg cables again... Came out a bit ugly but looks sound and it works.
Connection on the motor went smooth instead. I would like your opinion:
Thank you again Marine!
But it doesn't look bad for a first go. Its not perfect. but you will get better in time.
It looks better than many people's solder even after they have been doing it awhile.
#463
Tech Adept
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 170
From: Switzerland
Its always hard to tell with a picture. More so when using oversized wires... Or wires that are very close to the same width as the solder pads.
But it doesn't look bad for a first go. Its not perfect. but you will get better in time.
It looks better than many people's solder even after they have been doing it awhile.
But it doesn't look bad for a first go. Its not perfect. but you will get better in time.
It looks better than many people's solder even after they have been doing it awhile.
Should have used more solder on the tabs?
#464
No it doesn't look like it needs more.
But as I said, it can be hard to tell from a picture... So long as you have a noticeable even flow of solder between the wire and tab, you should be good.
#465
Tech Rookie
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 1
@marine6680, thanks for sharing such a useful information with us. It will help me to learn the soldering in a better way.
I want to know how i could solder the SMD? What precautions should i use to solder SMDs?
And also tell the heat and wattage required to solder SMDs.
I want to know how i could solder the SMD? What precautions should i use to solder SMDs?
And also tell the heat and wattage required to solder SMDs.



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