Does anyone know which internal spacers fit inside the team prime shock? Im having an issue with shock length on the R12C3.

I've improvised and dropped an aluminium 2mm spacer inside and it seems to be ok

The CRC silicone washers/shock seals probably fit the Team Prime shock, at least as an internal bump-stop. That would give the shock a soft-stop as well instead of a more abrupt stop..

I'm surprised that you cant just trim the ball cup and/or the threaded aluminum shock end.

I think I dropped in a 2 or 3 mm spacer to fit my R12C3.

Anyone tried the Fleta 1S esc with stock motor 10.5T?

Just wondering what the majority is when it comes to using the blue aluminum cone washer with the Belleville washers? Or the old school blue washer with the caged balls in the diff? Opinions please?

I still like the one from niftech personally

What servo are you guys running in the Xray X12? I am having very bad luck with the plastic gear sets in the Futaba 9650s. Any info is appreciated

Davin

If you look online you can get brass gear sets for that servo

Do you think that is the best way to go? is there not a decent metal gear servo made?

Savox 1250mg

I use a CRC axle shim in front of the blue cone washer and 4 bevelled washers between the blue cone and the diff nut. If makes a beautifully smooth diff.

Always keep an eye on the bearing on the outside of the diff hub. If it goes bad your diff will feel gritty and notchy.

Or use a small Kimbrough saver. I've used 9650s for years and never broken one with the small servo saver. I have seen them break with other servo savers. Or, find a JR 3650. Pretty much indestructible servo. I'm not sure what their modern version is. The Savox is nice but most cars aren't drilled for it so you will need to shoe goo it down or get the McPappy case for it.

Slapmaster thrust bearing kit is my top choice, like the old blue washer setup but much better.

http://www.slapmastertools.com/thrust-bearings.php

I have the exact same truer. I used my exacto to scratch a new mark in the sliding piece and "Sharpied" over the original mark. Gives a precisely accurate cut. Then you can use a piece of masking tape the exact circumferance of the dial and divide it into the tenths of a mm like the Hudy and mark it with a super fine Sharpie.