Tamiya mini cooper
Anyone interesting in seeing any updates on this
...also, what is that tool set you have in the back ground of the photo? I like how it has what looks like a case and cut outs for each tool. More info on that please.
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Buying from a local store,
I live near San Francisco, CA. You'd think w/ a million people we'd have at least 1 decent hobby store. Sadly the closest stores are at least an hour plus drive away w/o traffic. ...2 hours w/ traffic. Hard to get time away from wife/kids/work to always get to a store. Our best store is primarily a doll house store w/ a corner dedicated to RC stuff ...mostly Traxxas and RTR stuff. All very generic. So I order 99% of my parts. I try to order from USA stores primarily ...AMain Hobbies and TQRRacing are my fav's lately.
Okay Back to the Ball Diffs
I did an autopsy on both of the troubled Ball Diffs whiles I was waiting on the storms arrival
this evening , which never came in my district, so all was quiet
I took apart the two Ball Diffs in question and tried to retighten (lock) them up
Which I couldn't get them to my desired torqueness (Is that even a word?)
Anyway,
It seems that the plastic hoogienoogie that holds the airplane nut in the axel
cracked (hairline!) on both. Which explains why they got so loose all of a sudden.
So now my question to the net is
Is there a metal replacement for this hoogienoogie, or do I have to go back with the
damn plastic and hope that no further hairlines develop???
I did an autopsy on both of the troubled Ball Diffs whiles I was waiting on the storms arrival
this evening , which never came in my district, so all was quiet
I took apart the two Ball Diffs in question and tried to retighten (lock) them up
Which I couldn't get them to my desired torqueness (Is that even a word?)
Anyway,
It seems that the plastic hoogienoogie that holds the airplane nut in the axel
cracked (hairline!) on both. Which explains why they got so loose all of a sudden.
So now my question to the net is
Is there a metal replacement for this hoogienoogie, or do I have to go back with the
damn plastic and hope that no further hairlines develop???
I though you were using the TA03 ball diff? If so, which part are you referring as the hoogienoogie?
Because I've built those before and they did not have the diff nut holder in the axle.
Or are you talking about the M05 ball diff?
Have you considered just locking the diff using the bevel diff and maybe a lock for the rear CC01 diff? I think if you trim them you can make it fit.
Because I've built those before and they did not have the diff nut holder in the axle.Or are you talking about the M05 ball diff?
Have you considered just locking the diff using the bevel diff and maybe a lock for the rear CC01 diff? I think if you trim them you can make it fit.
Okay its not a problem of making them fit
If you read my post there is a plastic piece that holds the airplane nut in place while you
tighten up the diff
Thats the piece that developed the hairline fractures preventing me from locking them up
If you read my post there is a plastic piece that holds the airplane nut in place while you
tighten up the diff
Thats the piece that developed the hairline fractures preventing me from locking them up
Tech Elite

Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 2,367
The reason most of us went to the TA03 ball diff or an aftermarket gear diff is so we could run a tighter diff. You don't need to get new diffs cause the M05 diff with a 416 crew works really well. You can't just crank down on that sucker and need to run it loose. Unless you're running on a tight carpet track, you'll be okay.
My friend Laguna Bozo does well with one of those diff, but he's greasy smooth with his driving technique. Unless you're looking for the last tenth or so, just clean it up, check the thrust bearing and really clean that, and reassemble with a 416 diff screw. It doe start running "rough" much quicker than the other diffs, but it should give you good service.
I got the impression you were using a TA03 diff, so sorry if i misled you
I've not seen a metal nut holder thingie though. I know which part you are referring to. I think if you need a super stiff diff, the TA03 or the MantaRay diff would be more your style, but at that point you're not making much diff action anyway. How about you just lock it and get it over with?
Sorry I should have been more specific
Yes its the diff for the M05 (Golddusts car) that we've been having problems with
I really did not Lock it down in the true sense, but got it tight according to his style
The TA03 diff hasn't given us any troubles at all!
Yes its the diff for the M05 (Golddusts car) that we've been having problems with
I really did not Lock it down in the true sense, but got it tight according to his style
The TA03 diff hasn't given us any troubles at all!
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 10,638
From: Long Island, NY
I was using the Tamiya ball diff. Ran the car for years without issue. When it stripped everyone was like "oh yea those strip all the time." I definitely don't race enough.
KA2AEV thanks for the info.
KA2AEV thanks for the info.
)... and good luck finding one. They went discontinued something like 10 years ago.http://www.tamiyausa.com/items/tools...et-(red)-49292
Correct. Some additions, and one replaced with a blue handled tool (...
)... and good luck finding one. They went discontinued something like 10 years ago.
http://www.tamiyausa.com/items/tools...et-(red)-49292
)... and good luck finding one. They went discontinued something like 10 years ago.http://www.tamiyausa.com/items/tools...et-(red)-49292

Anyway nice set you have there. I recently ordered a few MIP hex wrench driver bits (for my electric driver) because people were raving about MIP. Will see how good they REALLY are especially vs Wiha's I've been using the last few decades.
I also have a few TRF hex wrenches with handles as well. Those have been good. I am a nut for tools, given that my other hobby is modding real cars.



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