Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
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#421
Tech Regular
I see that there are no shims for each of the 4 smaller gears in the diffs like there were on the .1. Is something different now? Didn't think that there was a change. Ready to put .3 together and I'm gonna use steel pins instead of the composite ones so do I need the shims still? Thanx
#422
#423
Tech Adept
Our very first run of EB48 kits had shims for the spider gears but then we went to the larger diameter cross pins with the milled flat spots and made the gears slightly larger so that we could omit those shims.
You will not be able to use the steel cross pins that used the shims, their diameter is too small. If you feel uneasy about the plastic cross pins and want to use metal ones I suggest the aluminum ones, PN:TKR5149A.
You will not be able to use the steel cross pins that used the shims, their diameter is too small. If you feel uneasy about the plastic cross pins and want to use metal ones I suggest the aluminum ones, PN:TKR5149A.
#427
Tech Master
Don't let that stop you, I've ran composite pins in my xray for over a year, never had one break, I am building mine with them. As far as I'm concerned, less rotating mass, the better. I weighed one last night .6g I'll take that.
#428
Tech Adept
iTrader: (1)
I ran my SCT410.3 with the plastic pins this weekend - they were fine afterward. I think they'll hold up to plenty of abuse. I plan to run them until I notice wear (if ever), and only then consider swapping to the aluminum version.
On the other hand, I did build the truck with non-lightened wheel hexes after breaking one while overtightening the set screw. Be careful with those
On the other hand, I did build the truck with non-lightened wheel hexes after breaking one while overtightening the set screw. Be careful with those
#429
Tech Legend
iTrader: (294)
I ran my SCT410.3 with the plastic pins this weekend - they were fine afterward. I think they'll hold up to plenty of abuse. I plan to run them until I notice wear (if ever), and only then consider swapping to the aluminum version.
On the other hand, I did build the truck with non-lightened wheel hexes after breaking one while overtightening the set screw. Be careful with those
On the other hand, I did build the truck with non-lightened wheel hexes after breaking one while overtightening the set screw. Be careful with those
What conditions do you run on and what setup did you use and how did the vehicle feel?
#432
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (2)
I ran my SCT410.3 with the plastic pins this weekend - they were fine afterward. I think they'll hold up to plenty of abuse. I plan to run them until I notice wear (if ever), and only then consider swapping to the aluminum version.
On the other hand, I did build the truck with non-lightened wheel hexes after breaking one while overtightening the set screw. Be careful with those
On the other hand, I did build the truck with non-lightened wheel hexes after breaking one while overtightening the set screw. Be careful with those
#433
Tech Adept
iTrader: (1)
I don't have any pics yet but a crack developed right along the set screw. I was more careful with the other three lightened hexes and none of those cracked.
My local indoor track is med size with tacky clay. I went from an SCT410 without any of the lightened bits to the SCT410.3 and started with the stock setup. During practice, I noticed the truck rotated in the turns a little faster on power than I was used to, and had a slight tendency to roll in the fast sweeper sections. I went up to a pink rear spring, lowered ride height by 1 mm front and rear, and later lengthened the rear camber link to the inner/lower hole on the tower (3-B if you go by the manual's notation). The roll center change made an immediate improvement so I stopped tweaking there before the main (TQ and 1st), but next time I'll try going up a notch in rear shock oil and maybe to a green rear spring. I left my old truck whole and loaned it out to my father-in-law, so side by side comparisons were easy to make between the trucks. I'd say the new SCT410.3 can be pushed faster through the turns for sure
My local indoor track is med size with tacky clay. I went from an SCT410 without any of the lightened bits to the SCT410.3 and started with the stock setup. During practice, I noticed the truck rotated in the turns a little faster on power than I was used to, and had a slight tendency to roll in the fast sweeper sections. I went up to a pink rear spring, lowered ride height by 1 mm front and rear, and later lengthened the rear camber link to the inner/lower hole on the tower (3-B if you go by the manual's notation). The roll center change made an immediate improvement so I stopped tweaking there before the main (TQ and 1st), but next time I'll try going up a notch in rear shock oil and maybe to a green rear spring. I left my old truck whole and loaned it out to my father-in-law, so side by side comparisons were easy to make between the trucks. I'd say the new SCT410.3 can be pushed faster through the turns for sure