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Old 12-31-1969, 04:00 PM
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Old 03-26-2015 | 08:24 AM
  #3721  
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Originally Posted by Kevin K
Ugggh....sounds like the Lexus all over again bodytuck-o-matic damn.
PLEASE make the new bodies true 190mm not this half 190/200mm body tucking mofo
Kevin K;

Please help me make sense of you contradictory statements. They're rather confusing.

You want narrower bodies yet at the same time you are seemingly frustrated with body tuck situtaions. ???????????????

Dale = Protoform
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Old 03-26-2015 | 08:49 AM
  #3722  
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Originally Posted by daleepp
Kevin K;

Please help me make sense of you contradictory statements. They're rather confusing.

You want narrower bodies yet at the same time you are seemingly frustrated with body tuck situtaions. ???????????????

Dale = Protoform
A true 190mm body on a 190mm car seems to tuck way less than a 200mm body on a 190mm car. A 190mm body looks better on a 190mm car than does a 200mm body on a 190mm car...this was my main point. Your PF Lexus is really nice looking but the darn thing just tucks the rear body with ease....this is a 200mm body on a 190mm car. Now from what Eric just said about the new body it looks like groundhog day all over again. My suggestion was to make the newer/next bodies true 190mm like your Mazda or LTC bodies are wide. This might all be a "moot" point as it might have more to do with the shape than it does with being 200mm wide. Hope this clears up what I was trying to get across the first time.
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Old 03-26-2015 | 09:45 AM
  #3723  
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Originally Posted by Kevin K
This might all be a "moot" point as it might have more to do with the shape than it does with being 200mm wide. Hope this clears up what I was trying to get across the first time.
This is the more important factor than width: it has more to do with the shape of these 2 bodies. Both the LFA and PFM-10 are supercars with very short rear ends. In order for these bodies to look more realistic, a few things need to happen: they need to be a wider around the rear wheel opening (to give it that supercar stance), and then narrow up very quickly behind the rear tires with the bottom of the tire actually exposed (see pic).

Whereas on a normal touring car body, this section goes pretty much straight back, leaving it out of the path of the tire and not as prone to tuck. If we made these bodies at 195mm like a TC body front and rear and flattened out the lower rear section to fix this, I'm sure we'd get called out for trying to optimize these for pure track performance instead of scale looks.

Now that being said, our next USGT body is not a supercar, so I don't foresee this being an issue. For the LFA and PFM-10 unfortunately it's something we'll have to work around with stiffeners etc.

Last edited by Matt Trimmings; 05-19-2016 at 09:29 PM.
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Old 03-26-2015 | 09:58 AM
  #3724  
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I would just like to know when GP is going to have them?

Most who have ordered them through our shop have given up now and ordered from Protoform/Proline direct.
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Old 03-26-2015 | 10:12 AM
  #3725  
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Originally Posted by EricPF
This is the more important factor than width: it has more to do with the shape of these 2 bodies. Both the LFA and PFM-10 are supercars with very short rear ends. In order for these bodies to look more realistic, a few things need to happen: they need to be a wider around the rear wheel opening (to give it that supercar stance), and then narrow up very quickly behind the rear tires with the bottom of the tire actually exposed (see pic).

Whereas on a normal touring car body, this section goes pretty much straight back, leaving it out of the path of the tire and not as prone to tuck. If we made these bodies at 195mm like a TC body front and rear and flattened out the lower rear section to fix this, I'm sure we'd get called out for trying to optimize these for pure track performance instead of scale looks.

Now that being said, our next USGT body is not a supercar, so I don't foresee this being an issue. For the LFA and PFM-10 unfortunately it's something we'll have to work around with stiffeners etc.
Yeah, it's definitely because of how it swoops right behind the rear wheels. Any touch that makes that area even just barely touch one of the wheels will cause it to be yanked right up and over the wheel.

I do love the look of the shell. Dale, you did an awesome job sir, but I agree with the guys who would have preferred it to be a true 190mm, even if that makes the tendency to body tuck even greater.
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Old 03-26-2015 | 11:49 AM
  #3726  
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I didn't body tuck after I remove a little more behind the rear wheel ...





Anyway, like my dad was saying, go faster so you won't get rear ended

One personnel tips : Try cutting the wing. I prefer the car with the wing cut at 9.5mm (side height) than the original cutting line.

Last edited by Penz316; 03-26-2015 at 12:31 PM.
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Old 03-26-2015 | 12:14 PM
  #3727  
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Originally Posted by Penz316
I didn't body tuck after I remove a little more behind the rear wheel ...





Anyway, like my dad was saying, go faster so you won't get rear ended

And yes, I prefer the car with the wing cut at 9.5mm than the original cutting line.
Your dad is funny.

I need to try that half sized lexan wing. I went with the big HPI molded one, but I think the high weight and additional drag may have hampered performance slightly. I was worried that the cut down wing wouldn't provide enough downforce, but it didn't seem to hurt you at all. Your car was dialed.
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Old 03-26-2015 | 12:41 PM
  #3728  
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Originally Posted by locked
Your dad is funny.

I need to try that half sized lexan wing. I went with the big HPI molded one, but I think the high weight and additional drag may have hampered performance slightly. I was worried that the cut down wing wouldn't provide enough downforce, but it didn't seem to hurt you at all. Your car was dialed.
I did back to back run with a bigger wing and smaller wing. The rear free up a little and I was getting better speed in the straight. I was faster with the little wing. Anyway, the rules was saying 10mm ...

The next step was trying without a wing but I didn't have the time lol

the week-end went so quickly!
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Old 03-26-2015 | 03:07 PM
  #3729  
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Alex what are the Wheel you use on the picture I found Ride tire 24025 that will be good for your track?

Thank you, Alain
P.S. it's the protoform pfm-10 body is available at your track store?
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Old 03-26-2015 | 04:08 PM
  #3730  
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This set :
http://www.teamgravityrc.com/store1/...tegory=6824082

Available at the local track (pre-mount, pre-glue). They have perform very (very) well.

Hope to see you at the track Alain !
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Old 03-26-2015 | 04:53 PM
  #3731  
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For the body, i'm pretty sure that if you call Roger at Total-RC, i will hook you up with some PF stuff
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Old 03-28-2015 | 08:51 AM
  #3732  
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We had some nice USGT cars last night at Indy RC for Friday night club racing. I think both of these are McAllister bodies. Jeremiah's Riley Daytona and Houston's MX-P Daytona. I thought they looked awesome on the track, and even better up close. Indy RC website is: www.IndyRC.Homestead.com





Last edited by Matt Trimmings; 05-19-2016 at 09:29 PM.
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Old 03-28-2015 | 10:07 AM
  #3733  
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Other than IndyHobbies who is still tooling around in his Camaro, our USGT field has turned into a McAllister showroom.

7-Riley Prototypes
1-MX-P Prototype (seen above)
1-Corvette
1-Jaguar
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Old 03-28-2015 | 03:05 PM
  #3734  
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Whats the trick in getting spec tires to grip. Ive been having issues when I finally get rear grip I loose front and vise versa? On asphalt?
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Old 03-28-2015 | 03:31 PM
  #3735  
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Originally Posted by Josh-n-ya
Whats the trick in getting spec tires to grip. Ive been having issues when I finally get rear grip I loose front and vise versa? On asphalt?
It sounds like they are overheating and getting greasy no?
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