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Old 03-16-2015 | 09:34 AM
  #31  
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When the engine is fired up the piston will get more heat. This will give some permanent grow on the piston due the working of the copper molecules. So when even the pinch is totally gone after running one tank and let it cool down you must feel a pinch again. The amount of effect on it is determed on how much the manufacturer did give it a heat treatment.

We have tested some engines on the shape of the piston after using it for several times. Engines based on an aluminium sleeve did show a tiny expansion on the exhaust side (less than a micron), with brass sleeves we have not seen a measureable expansion.
Also a tight fit in the crankcase will keep the sleeve more round
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Old 03-17-2015 | 03:35 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by rbakker
Hahhahahahaha, you smartnose..
From now on you are not allowed to use my break-in machine anymore for free..even if you pay you are not allowed anymore...heee...even if you pay double you are not allowed anymore.

You are just a old dinosaur that cant handle change too fast...lol..
Then I will not buy you any beer anymore, period!
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Old 03-17-2015 | 03:45 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by M7H
Then I will not buy you any beer anymore, period!
Hahaha Martin, just joking offcourse. If you buy me a beer maybe you get a discount..
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Old 03-17-2015 | 04:05 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by kyosho malaysia
didn't go through the heat cycle procedure,it may lost compression sooner than normal break in,maybe i'm wrong,please comments.
Why, can you explain what you mean and why it will loose compression due to you`re heat cycle theory?

Originally Posted by vandalzzz
Very interesting method.
Curious how such amount of oil along with temp affects front bearing.
Thanks, could you explain how the machine would influence the front bearing and elaborate what will happen in your opinion?

Originally Posted by lil-bump
I still think you need more rpm's to properly break-in an engine. Does the oil attack the rubber o-rings in the carb? maybe it's a non-petro based oil?
Pass you soon...
Can you explain why you think more rpm is needed and what the benefit would be? and what happens to the o-rings in oil?

Originally Posted by kyosho malaysia
it will create scratches on piston due to the residual still capture in the lubricant
Can you please tell me how you know this, the last 40 motors we have run in, the piston was just like a mirror. Could you tell me were you found your wishdom?

Originally Posted by nitrodude
I dont see the point, motors run just fine the way we have been braking them in for the last 4 decades. I dont even believe in "pre run" motors, I tried one and it didnt last, so I just went back the tried and true method.
The biggest advantage is saving time and money, hope you can understand this based on the explanations. If you still don`t get it,shoot me a PM and i will explain it a bit more if you like. In my opinion you can`t say you think the whole pre-run system is BS based on 1 engine you used. Who tells us you are competent enough to tune the engine and you are not one of those many falls idle drivers, running always to lean on the top and to rich at the bottom with a high idle? Just saying..

Originally Posted by dan_vector
Id tend to agree with you nitro dude. To me the force on the conrod is all wrong. A conrod isn't designed to take force pulling the piston down from the sleeve it's designed to be pushed down by the ignition cycle. I really don't see the point and it is bound to be a hugely expensive service! I think I'll stick to the tried and tested process of run in bench with propeller followed by on track.
Dan, did the comments of decelarating with 40k rpm come through, normally we here you a lot. You were pretty sure about your comments, do you understand that the conrod is also subjected to tension stresses? If not, shoot me a PM and i will explain you a bit more. Could you explain to me why you think the service is hugely expensive..? If you want you can send me an engine and i will break it in and send it back for free.
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Old 03-17-2015 | 04:46 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by rbakker
Hahaha Martin, just joking offcourse. If you buy me a beer maybe you get a discount..
Apology accepted!

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Old 03-17-2015 | 04:54 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by rbakker

...
What is the diameter of pistons you are designing?
...
Yeah, as you have expected our Pistons are a bit larger in size than the nitro engine pistons. I took a picture for you from one of our smaler ones...
Thank you very much for your commentary of my concerns.
And yes, my Argumentation was based on feelings, I didn't spend the time to go over it in detail.

Originally Posted by rbakker
...
It`s just a easy way to get it done.
...
Oh yes, I definitely agree on that. I have a brand new engine at home and I still use the old becouse I don't take the time for breaking in the new one.
Attached Thumbnails Break-in Dutch-piston_1.jpg   Break-in Dutch-piston_2.jpg  

Last edited by Millord; 03-17-2015 at 05:07 AM.
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Old 03-17-2015 | 05:05 AM
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Originally Posted by Millord
Yeah, as you have expected our Pistons are a bit larger in size than the nitro engine pistons. I took a Picture for you from one of our smaler ones...
Thank you very much for your commentary of my concerns.
And yes, my Argumentation was based on feelings, I didn't spend the time to go over it in detail.
Cool stuff you got there, with open questions there is always room for discussion. That how we engineers come to greater products, working together and beiing open to constructive comments.

Once been in the factory and design department of Stork engines, they also made big diesels, 620mm diameter pistons, really amazing. But only turning a couple of hundred rpm as i recall.

Engines are cool stuff..!
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Old 03-17-2015 | 05:24 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by rbakker
...
Once been in the factory and design department of Stork engines...
Yes, they are one of our competitors. They belong to Wärtsilä now.
I think they sell only medium speed engines, we are producing mostly high speed engines. I'm working in the "Big engines department" our engine has about 350l displacement. (20 Cylinder)

Sorry for OT...
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Old 03-17-2015 | 06:46 AM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by rbakker
But experience really shows more then all this discussion (saying that on a forum..lol). I would advice you al to make a small machine, it`s very easy to do and makes life easy for break-in an engine.

But i do like to defend my design on a forum...
An interesting approach, but I am curious what you need to do since the oil is incompressible, and a fixed amount in a container.

Is replacing the head button necessary or is removing just the glow plug enough?
What do you do with the crankcase plate, or is the crankcase compression not that significant?

Also, is there much particulate matter in the oil after 1 engine? is the material in suspension or does it settle with gravity(it almost seems like the run-in process is more burnishing than wearing in the surfaces?
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Old 03-17-2015 | 10:38 AM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by avs
An interesting approach, but I am curious what you need to do since the oil is incompressible, and a fixed amount in a container.

Is replacing the head button necessary or is removing just the glow plug enough?
What do you do with the crankcase plate, or is the crankcase compression not that significant?

Also, is there much particulate matter in the oil after 1 engine? is the material in suspension or does it settle with gravity(it almost seems like the run-in process is more burnishing than wearing in the surfaces?
Indeed oil is incompressible, the container is not completely filled.
Here a movie where you can see all..!

+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.


The particles will sink, the flow in the container is minimal.
After 1 engine i throw away the old oil and use new oil for the next engine and clean the container with brake cleaner, just to be sure.

Offcourse i checked the used oil and filtered it to see the amount of particles, it`s really not much...there is some on the bottom of the container, but really hard to find.
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Old 03-17-2015 | 10:47 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by avs
(it almost seems like the run-in process is more burnishing than wearing in the surfaces?
Could you try to explain to me the difference between burnishing and wearing in?
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Old 03-17-2015 | 10:56 AM
  #42  
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Of course, there are not much partikels. First, there ist not much material to remove and second, the material is removed in very very small steps. I would expect you will have a very fine powder, and no particals.
And I think the oil bath will remove the particals from the contact surfaces faster than a normal operation.
If you think about sharpening a knife on a stone, there is a lot of particals on the stone and on the knife. Now expect what happens, if you do that under water in a sink. Where do you expect more particals between blade and stone.
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Old 03-17-2015 | 12:34 PM
  #43  
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The piston is made on a lathe, if you have a fresh piston and you zoom in on the surface you will see the lines made by the toolbit on the lathe. This surface is ideal to use for the break-in



Zoom in on this pic:
http://www.euronet.nl/users/tooms/ftp/DSC_0024.jpg
you will see sthe small lines.....

With less oil and high rpm the tips of the rough surface of the piston will burn and snap off, that will create small noticeable particles. With lot of oil, a slow movement and a controled temperature the surface will be polished giving a dirt in the oil that small that it will not create scratches
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Old 03-17-2015 | 08:03 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by rbakker
Could you try to explain to me the difference between burnishing and wearing in?
burnishing is accomplished by rubbing 2 smooth surfaces, a harder surface on a softer one. there are very small amounts of plastic deformation to produce a more smooth surface, as opposed to polishing(or grinding) a surface with small particles which scratch the surface and remove material to improve the surface finish.
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Old 03-18-2015 | 01:55 AM
  #45  
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this is a good idea all in all except that we here in asia will have to pay to ship the engine to you, pay for the service, then pay for the shipping again back to asia. that could be very costly especially from here philippines to holland and back.

cant we just buy the machine instead so that we can do it here in asia?like, one per country would be more feasible enough.
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