Oh, maybe someone can explain me the theroy behind the heat cycling method. There is one aspect I don't understand.

It's quite clear, why pre heating is recommended, and why the piston should be on bdc when engine stops. I think thease two are self explainig, but why only run the engine multiple times for 3min and than a complete cooling Phase instead of emptying a full tank. I don't understand what the multiple cooling phases are required for.

As mentioned in the dutch method no cooling phase planned and I don't see any negative Impacts on that, becouse I donn't understand the Need for a cooling phase.
(Ok maybe one Heat Cycle is required to reduce some internal tensions)

Do the Break-in Dutch at home..!!!

https://www.facebook.com/pages/Break...73319342753347

When heating up an piston and cooling it down the copper molecules do change the structure of the piston alloy giving also some grow when cooled down.
With every time the alloy is heated up more than before this proces is restarted again. Finally it can give more strength in the piston but so far no noticable differences are realy found when doing it al in one long break in proces.

my project for next year!!!
what do you think roelof ?

! just gonna make a simple steel pot with wool insulation around.
gears are sealed by the bearings
good or bad idea?
thanks!!!

Interesting design. You just do that to keep the motor in normal straight up position?

That gearbox on the bottom I think can be opened so the gears will get maximum lubrication.

yes to keep it at normal position!!
i think i can make two holes in the case I just opened
i read xpress system dont use the rear disc to keep connecting rod in place .(easy to build)
what do you think is necessary right, to avoid any chance to conn come out?
I dont have lathe to make the rear disc, so this way looks easy to me.
gearbox come milescraft right angle drill attachment tool
thanks!!

I know people who do not use a back plate to keep the rod on its place with a vertical position. But also with the horizontal position it is no telleng the rod will stay put,. but it works in both ways without a back plate.. I just want to be sure the rod stays put.
Most engines do not give much axial play on the rod inside the piston so the rod will stay quite well on the crank pin. But some experimental engines I had had more axial play to keep the piston light, they needed for sure the backplate.

But if you have some old worn/damaged engines you can always use the backplate with a drilled hole in the middle

Do you sell your EBIS?

Anybody know if an EBIS system is available for purchase?

Hello.
I have the ebis and I am looking for the screws that hold the coupler in between the motor and the ebis motor .
What are the exact part number if I go to a place to buy them .
Also looking for a seal .

Thank you

Just send me a PM and I will help you with any original EBIS spare part you need.

I sent you a message .
let me know if you received it .