Originally Posted by TheMuffinman

How does it make it different if you have a hard spring on the servo saver

Originally Posted by Byronf1

Hi,
What brand of differential oil do you use?? for V2....

Originally Posted by voodoo

Can i ask what the difference is if you install a tapered piston facing up or down? What are the effects and disadvantages/advantages?

Also, can anyone point me to a setup sheet for a 2.0 on a loose dusty track? Thanks!

Originally Posted by orcadigital

Yes there is a gap. I use shock shaft pliers on the cap (the ones with the pin that goes through the mounting hole) and hold the body by hand and just snug it up. I would say .5mm-.75mm gap. Never had a problem with leaking there.

The new shafts use a nut on top instead of the 2.5mm screw. It is a much better design. I have not had the nut back off before and have not used lock tight. I have had the screw back out, and the head break off. The 10th scale offroad vehicles have gone the same way and very pleased with it. Have yet to have a nut back off on any of them.

Check out Chicky's latest setups for recommended oils. I still use V1 diffs so my oils are much thinner.



I have not seen any other diffs for the Serpent. Where is it leaking exactly? I use green shock slime on the diff outdrive orings and both sides of the housing gasket and rarely get a leaking diff. I have not had a center leak ever. I am also running the thinner oils as mentioned above (3k-7k depending on the diff).

Originally Posted by tony montana

Can't remember if I asked or not, but I bought a used supposed to be a 2.0 car. How do I know for sure of its a true 2.0? It does have the shocks on the back of the rear arms. I know the diff internals are supposed to be different, but can you visually tell by taking a diff apart

Originally Posted by tony montana

Can't remember if I asked or not, but I bought a used supposed to be a 2.0 car. How do I know for sure of its a true 2.0? It does have the shocks on the back of the rear arms. I know the diff internals are supposed to be different, but can you visually tell by taking a diff apart

Originally Posted by sobiski racer

The shock shaft will have a nut on top

Originally Posted by sobiski racer

The shock shaft will have a nut on top

Originally Posted by Goomba_7

The piston will be faster in the direction that the piston taper is. So if the piston is facing up towards the shock cap, compression of the shock will happen slightly faster. If the Piston taper is facing the bottom of the shock then the rebound of the shock will happen faster.

This is what I have read on the subject. If I'm wrong someone please chim in. I have always run my tapered pistons down to increase the rebound speed. If the information I was given is correct then to me it makes sense because in my opinion you want your tire to spend as much time on the ground as possible so having it rebound faster to me means just that.

If Chicky can chim in here that would be great cause I've noticed he's been running his pistons up according to some of his setups.

Originally Posted by performula

I actually used Permatex Ultra Black with the gasket because the gasket was needed to space the casing correctly. The internal gears wouldn't rotate freely. I haven't checked the diff yet as I wanted it to sit. Hopefully it worked. Slowly getting my car ready to run its just been sitting...for years.

I'm temped to buy the RTR and let my car be for spares. Anyone think thats a dumb idea? The 811 has been out for awhile and I'd hate to have something obsolete or discontinued in months.

Originally Posted by tony montana

Can't remember if I asked or not, but I bought a used supposed to be a 2.0 car. How do I know for sure of its a true 2.0? It does have the shocks on the back of the rear arms. I know the diff internals are supposed to be different, but can you visually tell by taking a diff apart

Originally Posted by jhess

Tony thats awesome that you are running a serpent buddy. Lemme know if you need anything!