here's an electronics question:

with my recent background in crawling all my rigs have high torque servos (200-400+oz/in) and use a castle bec direct to give them maximum amperage and voltage.

i am planning to put what spares i have lying around on the Be2 to start, a Mamba Monster Max, an HPI Scream 1950kv motor and a Savox 1231SG. the Savox is rated at 444oz-in of toqrue @ 6v, and although i can set the MMM's bec to output 6v, at less than 3amps max, it won't have enough power to drive the Savox to it's full potential. i also have an extra Castle BEC in the parts box, should i install the bec (direct ofcourse)? to those that doesn't have the luxury of the RX8's high amp bec, do you install becs on your Be's?

I run the Hobbywing Xerun 150A ESC in both my ebuggy and etruggy with KO Propo RSX Power servos. The BEC on the ESC is only 3A and has never been an issue, even with the truggy.

I did run a capacitor when I used to run an LRP IX8 as full lock steering and full acceleration would sometimes cause the system to brown out. I have not has that issue with the Hobbywings.

Thanks, orcadigital. I might just try it without a BEC first as i would really like to minimize my wiring.

hey ponity what did your diff setup do when you had 5/5/3 did it give you more steering and more rear end grip

Is ballooning caused by to light center diff fluids?

My center diff is leaking. Are there any other diffs for this car? Like a Torsen? I'm thinking about just putting putty in there...maintenance free lol

i just finished building my 2.0 yesterday and was ready to hit the track but it rained all afternoon so i'm hoping to get it dirty today.

an installation note/question. using just my hands to tighten the shock cap on the shock body, does it really have this 1mm gap between the body and cap? is this sealed already? i don't want to have to use tools and overtorque something.

also i noticed my kit's shock shaft has threads on both sides, so you don't have to screw in a small bolt to lock the piston in, rather it came with M3 nuts -- which aren't good as you have to threadlock them to hold their position in the shaft -- i had some thin lock-nuts extra from my other kits and used them and they were a perfect fit. the end of the threaded shaft just sits flush on the lock nut. hope that holds.

kit also came with 12000cps and 7000cps diff oils... i don't know if that's what you guys use or do you use diff oil in WT?

Yes

Those shock shaft are v2 clean the shock shaft and use locktite. Currently i run 10000, 12000, 7000.

Yes there is a gap. I use shock shaft pliers on the cap (the ones with the pin that goes through the mounting hole) and hold the body by hand and just snug it up. I would say .5mm-.75mm gap. Never had a problem with leaking there.

The new shafts use a nut on top instead of the 2.5mm screw. It is a much better design. I have not had the nut back off before and have not used lock tight. I have had the screw back out, and the head break off. The 10th scale offroad vehicles have gone the same way and very pleased with it. Have yet to have a nut back off on any of them.

Check out Chicky's latest setups for recommended oils. I still use V1 diffs so my oils are much thinner.

I have not seen any other diffs for the Serpent. Where is it leaking exactly? I use green shock slime on the diff outdrive orings and both sides of the housing gasket and rarely get a leaking diff. I have not had a center leak ever. I am also running the thinner oils as mentioned above (3k-7k depending on the diff).

Hi, where are these shafts? I have the same problem with the screw, I already locktite it... but the nut will be better... I was looking around serpent website... but not find the shafts you say, can i use another brand ??

SER600645 is what I ordered from Serpent America and had the threaded tops. This is rear 2.0 for the Ebuggy. I am pretty sure it was a running change, but someone else may be able to fill in better. I had the screw break off, so ordered a new set (these are the ti ni coated), and when they arrived, they were the threaded nut style.

All the pictures show the old style, and the truggy spares I bought were the old. I have not purchased new front shafts as I have quite a few spares, but I did not have the 2.0 rear shafts (longer then the 1.0).

hey guys what servo saver spring you uesding on the buggy and I was thinking of trying 7/10/5 what will that do to the buggy handle wise

I have the Serpent hard servo saver spring on the ebuggy and etruggy. It makes a difference in handling. I also use KO RSX Power servos though which can handle the abuse.

For diff oil, if you are on v2 diffs, then you will need to be thicker then that. With v1, it depends on conditions but you may be a little too thick. I tried 10 in the middle and never got the feeling I wanted (I have v1 diffs) and have ended up 5/5/3 or 7/5/3. When I had 10 in the middle, it caused the buggy to be unstable, and the rear end wanted to come around on power too quickly, never felt planted.

How does it make it different if you have a hard spring on the servo saver