dont know what your rules are... but i think we are finally realizing that the 'silvercans' and 'blackcans' (sealed brushed motors) have finally come to a crossroads as far as racing goes... the performance and stress that todays cars and batteries are trying to achieve are just not friendly to such motors. put a 21.5 brushless motor in there and you will rarely 'need' a fan (i can only speak for asphalt racing) but i would imagine one fan pointing at the endbell should be more than enough cooling effort..

Get him/her in this thread pronto !

i would like to pick this individuals brain as well.

Also, a voluntary un-official tech tear down is in order. I have all sorts of questions that will never be answered as well. lol

typically you only hear that request when someone is assumed to be 'not fully playing by the rules'... interesting. is this person 'that' fast?.

No rules violations intended. Only setup secrets implied...

Hi and Thanks to Sosidge for the tipps on my carpet setup!
Gluing the sidewalls was the key, and finally I stay with yellow springs front and blue rear on my M05 Pro V2.

Another thing, that I canīt stop thinking about is some knuckle weights for the car. As I own an M06 with the R weights, that I really am convinced of: Did anyone here a similar test for an FWD Mini? I am curious to give 7-11gr. knuckle weights on each front axle knuckle, instead of adding weight to the bumper.
This should add some traction on the front tires without making the front end too heavy.
Has anyone ever tried this so far? Open for your thoughts and input,

Br,
Matthias

So since this thread is pretty general about M-chassis, are there any setup differences for the M05-Pro-V2 vs the "normal" m05's ?
I've read posts stating the Pro V2 likes harder springs in the rear than in the front, so I'm wondering - what's the difference between the Pro V2 and the 'normal' M05 that would cause this change ?
(I'm assuming the 'normal' one would have stiffer front suspension?)

I don't understand why setup would be much different. Mine is pretty much the same, but achieved by different means. EG: I used to build my dampers to a specific length, but that job is now being handled by the droop screws. Still using red front/blue rear springs, same ride height, etc. The only real change is having the weight more centered in the car has made it easier to get right. My driving still sucks, but that's another story.

Figured out the thing with the rear servo mount. The picture I used yesterday was one of Tamiya's and they used a full height servo, where I'm using a low profile, so the mounting is different.

Glad I could help.

As fast as the front weights go, it is an interesting idea. No harm in trying if you can find a reliable way of attaching the ballast.

i would imagine thats like asking for ones first born... if this car indeed is really as fast as you claim.


i need to see this thing go.

Car can be seen most Saturdays at the track. Most recently on vid as well. lol

is it noticeably faster on straights? -that could be more telling.
There are guys that are fast, but its usually a combination of dialed in car and driver skill (keeping the straightest line and getting through corners quickly). If the car is visibly faster on straights, then i'd assume a faster motor or something w/ the gearing.

Fast meaning his car is setup properly to run on unglued sidewalls. Try it and see how much is involved to go fast on them. Straight line speed and getting around the track fast are a bit different. End.