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Tamiya mini cooper


Old 03-25-2015, 03:48 PM
  #23161  
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Originally Posted by monkeyracing View Post
Hey Cal, some silicone sprays can actually degrade the plastic. I think it has something to do with the solvent base. I had an M03 once, where the whole area around the gearbox faded from black to dirty white, inside and out. Took me ages to figure it out. M05 v2 cracked in the same spot. Nothing to worry about.
Jim, you say that the gears are actually binding/melding together?
Could this be because the gears may actually be out of alignment and be
In reality too close together?
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Old 03-25-2015, 04:40 PM
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The spider gears are welding themselves onto the carrier. Makes sense, in a way. Cheap pot metal gears, on a cheap pot metal carrier, spinning REALLY fast. Something's bound to give.

Before assembly I remove flashing/burrs and check tolerances, but again, cheap gears. It's not a huge problem really - more of a curiosity.
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Old 03-25-2015, 04:57 PM
  #23163  
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Hi Jim,
I have used the same silicone spray in my MO3 and MO5 cars with no issues. It has made my gearboxes very quiet and un mini like.
Regarding the chassis it has not made the car seem different, but I will run a bead of superglue over the crack. It does a flex a little, but car is still handling well. I know it does not have any loctite degradation as I do not use in that area.
The MO5 V2 is still my choice of car for events. I have changed my setup more and car seems to have improved with these changes.
Now I have the black alloy parts, I need to build a ninja stealth model car.
Glad to see you back Bob, hope you are on the mend and have missed your posts.
Regards,
Calvin
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Old 03-25-2015, 05:13 PM
  #23164  
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Originally Posted by monkeyracing View Post
The spider gears are welding themselves onto the carrier. Makes sense, in a way. Cheap pot metal gears, on a cheap pot metal carrier, spinning REALLY fast. Something's bound to give.

Before assembly I remove flashing/burrs and check tolerances, but again, cheap gears. It's not a huge problem really - more of a curiosity.
In that case yeah, agree, I wouldn't use silicone near the plastic either
I got us a medium tube of high speed bearing grease from a local car shop and I put
That in our gear boxes. It seems to be doing its job well so far

Hey just for s&its and giggles, try lubing the gear shafts big time and make sure they
Aren't too tight. Also make sure that the shafts aren't loose in their mounts, maybe the
Bouncing around is causing the binding (melding)?

Calvin what type of silicone are you using???
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Old 03-25-2015, 07:07 PM
  #23165  
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Originally Posted by patorz31 View Post
Here is what some of the guys are running up here In Edmonton.
http://www.amain.com/rc-cars/protek-...100-14/p271097

It weighs 155g. They like it for they can put weight where ever they want.
Thanks, patorz31 I will check this out!!

Originally Posted by Granpa View Post
The black can or Sport Tuned motors are Junk, junk, junk. They are unreliable, inconsistent, run hot, and need the care and tender attention of a knowledgeable motor guy. It's best to stick with a stock Tamiya #53689 Johnson silver can. There's an old thread called Silvercan Tips/Tricks, if I remember correctly, devoted to the care and feeding of a Sivercan. I posted several times there on how to clean the comm so that your motor will be running at max potential. Also, purchase some VooDoo drops which you can find on e-bay. A drop of those each run, an occasional cleaning, and your Silvercan should give well over 500+ runs.

Also, if you have an rpm checker, a silver can should give you over 12k at 5v and 18k at 7.2v.

Also try a "Stinger" or similar motors. HPI used to make a 20 turn that was decent and better than the Blackcan. They were about $20 and again, if memory serves me correctly, were available from Stormer Hobbies. They were pretty close to a good 21.5 at least in my hands.

Hope this helps.
Thanks, Granpa!! I have the black can for my truck but it doesnt have much punch for my tiny track, so I went back to the "torque tuned" motor that came with its kit.

I will check out the other thread and this Voodoo drops.
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Old 03-25-2015, 07:18 PM
  #23166  
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So I tried the short 'extra hard' white springs on the front of my M05 with yellow on the rear. I am using the super mini CVA's with single hole piston, Tamiya's blue (hardest) as for dampers.

It took away most of the unwanted roll the car had, and the stepping out of the rear is dramatically reduced during turn-in. I tried other springs on the rear (blue and red), but the yellow had the best result with this combo.

I might try even a firmer spring on the front or the gimmicky front swaybar.
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Old 03-25-2015, 09:40 PM
  #23167  
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Just got a little tough news at the Docs today. Seems as if I'm due for two more sessions of chemo. Sorta sucks cause that means it won't be till June before I can come play.

Anyhoo for sakadachi, generally softer springs in front and harder springs in back usually work best in a Mini on most tracks. Here's what you've done with the set up change you made. This has effectively reduced the front end grip enough that You've got a pretty good push which will help with the traction roll. This is fine, but a "pushy" car is slow.

What you want to do is to maintain the front end grip without having the front end dig in and cause a traction roll. Now, put yourself in the seat of your real car and you'll see that entering a corner, the car will roll, take a "set", then go around the corner once the weight has been transferred to the outside front wheel. Most, and I repeat, most, traction rolls occur when this set occurs too quickly and the tires grip enough. Most of the time, people will go to stiffer springs to stop the roll, mistakenly believing that this will cure the problem. This only makes the problem worse until you go so stiff that you lose the front end and the front end goes around the corner with very little grip.

Going to stiff springs will make the car take a set too quickly, will make the car traction roll. The proper solution is to cause a situation where the car takes a slower set so that you the weight doesn't transfer too quickly. We do that by going to a much softer spring and stepping up the shock oil weight on the front. The roll is controlled by going to a stiffer spring in back and a rear roll bar. his will keep the front end from flopping over on you. The regular Tamiya Mini springs are much too stiff and I only use the red on occasion for the rear. The spring that I use the most are the neon colored springs from the #53333 spring set. Generally a red or yellow in front and a blue in back. Heavy rear roll bar in a 05. With TRF shocks start out with 3 hole pistons, as close to zero rebound as you can get and go with 40 wt Losi or 30 wt Associated oil. Change as the situation dictates.

Also, don't overlook how important ride height and ride height rake is and how much toe out adjustments can affect your lap times. Admittedly, this was on my 03, but I've picked up as much as 0.5 sec on my lap times with a 1/4 turn adjustment on my toe out. Once I settle on the spring and shock oils, almost all my track tuning is toe out ride height and camber adjustments along with the transmitter settings. If a change is made in the shock oil and springs, again do the adjustments to suit. Also making track changes with spacers on the axes can help. These are just the obvious things, but there are tons of more subtle set up "tricks". Don't forget your transmitter in your car set up.

Hope this made sense to you and as always this is just my opinion. These basic premises have kept me fairly competitive for the last nearly 20 years. Will be 80 on my next b'day and still usually am in the bottom of the A or the top of the B at the TCS races. Getting harder tho as my reflexes slow, eyesight fails and my concentration wanes.
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Old 03-25-2015, 09:42 PM
  #23168  
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Originally Posted by caltek1 View Post
Hi Jim,
I have used the same silicone spray in my MO3 and MO5 cars with no issues.
I think it really depends on the brand and what each uses as a base. The cheap stuff I've been using for years has never caused me any grief. The one time I had that problem, I used some hideously expensive stuff off the shelf at work. It was either Wurth, or something rebranded with a Porsche part number. (Porsche does this a lot!) It was formulated to treat the rubber on window and door moldings and had many warnings about overspray. Funny!
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Old 03-26-2015, 03:54 AM
  #23169  
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KA2AEV,
I use Nulon Ezi-Glide clear silicone lubricant. Comes in a 500ml spray can and has been in my toolbox for a long time. It is an Australian brand and I really like the stuff.

Bob,
Sorry to hear you are up for more chemo, but hopefully this will be the last of it my friend. I really hope it goes into remission.
Thanks for the great info you pass on to us, you a wealth of knowledge to us all. I really wish I could come and get some of that knowledge in person.
You asked in another post what we thought of the MO5 V2 , well I really like the new chassis , so much that it is the first car I consider when racing. Yes I do have a backup MO5 V1, but it remains in my pitbag, unless I break/strip a gear in my V2.
The biggest thing I have found with the new car was the tendancy for dirt to get into the gearbox area and strip the intermediate gear, but using battery tape and blutak has resolved this issue for me. I also have now seen that the front chassis is prone to cracking, however at this stage it is not causing issues. I will monitor this though and carry a spare just in case.
The positives well the car is easier to drive, better balanced and for me is faster and more forgiving. Regarding the droop screws, I think a gimmick, as no real way to adjust properly without a specially made droop block, so I just use the standard shocks off my original MO5. (These are m chassis TRF units built per instructions, with 3 hole pistons all round and 35 weight oil, zero rebound).
I have found you do need to run front toe out on the car and I am presently running 1 degree rear hubs. I personally found the shocks in the convential position better than using the MO6 pins and use fluro springs front and rear in the same combos as you posted Bob.
I currently like mwb and have found the car to be reactive and stable on large and small tracks. I run the front a little lower than the rear for ride height and use front and rear shock towers with the rearsin the standard position and the fronts fully laid over or second outer hole depending on the track.
I do run a oil gear diff with 300 000 weight oil and like this better than heavier oil, as gives better steering and corner speed.
I use a shorty battery pack that weighs in at around 222 grms and have it offset to the non motor side for balance. We have a weight limit of 1330 gms, so I have added lead in and onto the front bumper for getting the power down.
I have found that 1.5 degrees rear camber the best for me ,any more than this and the car looses rear grip. I think this was an issue I was having before but somehow overlooked this setting and concentrated on changing rear hex width,
So my opinion is a little tainted as I really like the new chassis.
Hope my rose coloured glasses don't dazzle you and get better soon.
Take care,
Calvin.
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Old 03-26-2015, 06:58 AM
  #23170  
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Thanks Cal, I'll try and find some, all of the silicone spray I've tried on plasticsleft me with a nasty
Feeling towards it. It was never pretty results!


Sakadachi,
With all of the changes you are making, do yourself a favor and get a notebook and start documenting
The changes your doing so you can keep track of what worked for you and what didn't
Sort of takes the head scratching element out of it


And most importantly
Bob stay strong brother, those little cars will be there waiting for your return!

Mike
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Old 03-26-2015, 10:56 AM
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I agree with grandpa on the stiffer spring up front causing that push... I also tried a thicker oil & push came with the softer spring. I went too stiff in the rear & it caused "hop". I went back to the medium spring & 40wt with the roll bar but that caused "hop" again.

My parking lot has left me with this combo as it's not as smooth as many purpose built tracks. Obviously there are all the other factors mentioned from ride height to droop but each track will require changes so play around with the set-ups & make one change at a time

(35wt front, 40wt rear)
(Soft springs up front, Medium in the back)
3 hole piston all around & no anti-roll bars


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Old 03-26-2015, 12:28 PM
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Hi everyone, thank you for all the expert advise!

But to be clear again, my car is not traction rolling, nor do I have understeering issues.

I have an issue on my M05 where the rear steps-out (slides out) during turn-ins when I off-throttle. The biggest issue is that the car dives when I off-throttle causing the rear to become very light and unstable. I don't have this issue on my V2.

The remedy has been to increase spring rate on the front to prevent this dive and induce under steer while off-throttle. Also thinking about adding a front swaybar when the weight shifts left to right during the turn in. My car does NOT plow or under steer much, if at all, while I power out of the turn.

When I mentioned 'roll' I meant it as 'sway', not traction rolling.
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Old 03-26-2015, 12:37 PM
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per granpa's idea, I think I will see if I can add maybe a 1mm spacer on the rear next to give the rear wider track.

KA2AEV- excellent suggestion on jotting down notes I've already tried!

Des- Your machine looks great! On the V2 I completely agree that the softer springs belong on the front. But the M05 is completely different. There is too much sway with even the yellow springs up front with the red springs in the back for me causing the car to be unstable while approaching a fast wide right turn and snaking through a tight right turn soon after on my basement track. I tried the blue front/red rear springs approach, but the white extra hard spring front/yellow rear has been much more stable.
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Old 03-26-2015, 12:46 PM
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Originally Posted by sakadachi View Post
Hi everyone, thank you for all the expert advise!

But to be clear again, my car is not traction rolling, nor do I have understeering issues.

I have an issue on my M05 where the rear steps-out (slides out) during turn-ins when I off-throttle. The biggest issue is that the car dives when I off-throttle causing the rear to become very light and unstable. I don't have this issue on my V2.

The remedy has been to increase spring rate on the front to prevent this dive and induce under steer while off-throttle. Also thinking about adding a front swaybar when the weight shifts left to right during the turn in. My car does NOT plow or under steer much, if at all, while I power out of the turn.

When I mentioned 'roll' I meant it as 'sway', not traction rolling.
All cars will get light on the rear end when lifting off the throttle entering a corner, due to weight transfer from the rear to the front. (In real cars it's referred to as "trailing throttle oversteer".) Of course, some do it worse than others. The behavior can be reduced by lowering the center of gravity (by lowering the ride height, for instance), lengthening the wheelbase, and of course, not lifting off the throttle so abruptly on turn-in.

A brushed motor will do this more than a brushless (if no drag brake is used) because it has more internal friction.

You can also get some relief from this by using thicker front shock oil, thinner rear shock oil, or both. That will cause a little more understeer as the car starts to lean into the corner.
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Old 03-26-2015, 12:51 PM
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Ahhh I have no experience with the M-05, just the V2 & thanks it's running & looking pretty good!

What is the rear suspension set up right now sakad?

My buddy had a terrible rear end & wander but toe out up front & stock rear uprights corrected his issue for the most part
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