pizzaboy192

iTrader: (2)

No hits on Google, Bing, or eBay. Is there an alternate part number?

monkeyracing

iTrader: (10)

Oops, added a digit. 9805976

ncpantherfan

iTrader: (13)

Just out of curiosity, what 21.5 motor and what is your motor timing set for indoor carpet tracks?
I was wondering if there is a large variety of motors and timing settings.

I have a kill shot rpm with timing set around 70 deg advanced.

filippimini

Have you got a link to the A parts? I can't find them.

EDIT: found it on Stella models

filippimini

For those of you using square packs, how are you holding the packs in? Anyone doing something besides tape?


I wonder is something like this would work? Or would the aluminium post obstruct the holes for the battery leads?

Ryan

Pygmy

I taped a full-size hardcase with bullet-connectors but apparently there was enough sideways movement to pull the connectors into the plastic tape holder and crack the casing of the lipo around the connectors.

monkeyracing

iTrader: (10)

You could use the aluminum posts, but you probably just want to use them on the the side away from the battery posts. but, having tried them, they're more of a nuisance (when taping a battery in) than anything else. The plastic pieces work very well. install one (opposite the posts) and cut off excess length. Seriously, tape the battery in properly and you won't have to worry about it. My battery was in my car for a long practice night and an entire weekend of racing and it didn't budge, even with some huge crashing.

Rant time! Something I've never been able to figure out about the M05 is the design of the servo area and surrounding components. The first problem is the area at the front, where the wires come out of the servo. Why isn't there a recess cut in to it? Every M05 I've had, with every servo, has required the wires be smushed and bent to fit in there. The second mistake is at the back, where that upper plate extends over the servo mount juuuust enough to require you to remove a bunch of screws to get it out of there easily. I trimmed a tiny bit off the front of the plate to gain easier access, but the front part bugs me, as there's no clean fix for it.

sosidge

Dremel. That's what I did as I didn't want the wires smushed either.

As far as the rear mount goes I haven't found it to be a problem. I leave it in place if I have to remove the servo (not often). Probably depends on the servo you use though.

Granpa

Sounds pretty close. Just monitor your temps. I usually limit my temps to 170

fresnojay

iTrader: (3)

Ok I took the V2 out on what is as close to one of my newest V1 setups as I could get. But still did not solve the issues I had saturday at the races. It did seem to deaden the car a bit but not in a beneficial way. It sorta helped the tail whip issue but it really killed my cornering in the infield while still having the nasty whip when you really cranked on it to try and get it to turn in.

I know I read that CA'ing the tires helped tame a similar issue for another. But here's the deal. I heard through the grape vine that TCS will not be running the same tire gluing circus they ran this last season due to the amount of time it chewed up. So I am hunting for some help that might point me away from that quick fix.

I have also had a fellow driver or 4 locally point me towards just running A's or M's up front. That I know is also a quick fix as I have been down that road too. The end result to those was yes the car handled well but I did not like the .3-.4 I lost per lap as a result.

Below is my setup and feel free to post options or ideas were you think they would be useful.

M05 V2 Pro: Mid Length
Body: Tamiya Mugen CRX
ESC: Justock
Motor: Revtech Killshot 21.5 Rpm
Battery: 6500 75C
Servo: Savox 1251
Shocks: 54000's, Option shock towers front and rear both in first hole past stock position. Front swing arm Shock mount is option M05 Gold lower C carrier pin position.

Front:
Ride Height: 5mm
Spring: Black/Blue
Oil: 40wt
Toe: +1*
Camber: Stock upper arm in upper chassis hole 1.5*?
Tire: Spec TCS S grip

Rear:
Ride Height: 4.5mm
Spring: Black/Yellow
Oil: 40wt
Toe: stock uprights
Camber: 1.5*
Tire: Spec TCS S grip

On the waiting list for sway bars as of now are unobtanium .

Thanks for input in advance.
Jason

P.S. For those using the M05 Gold lower C carrier mounting pin shock location. What are your shock lengths typically built to with the longer ball cup?

KA2AEV

iTrader: (1)

Thats what I run mine at and usually do okay with it
If only I could learn to drive it I'd be very happy

caltek1

iTrader: (38)

Hello freshnojay,
Not sure my setup is much help, as I run on low grip asphalt and use Ride Inch up tyresMc 38 front and Sc 32 rears, which are mounted on 2mm offset rims. Our minis have to be 1330 grams or more to be legal. So I have added weight into the front bumper and ontop of the bumper.
I use a short lipo offset to non motor side and use the hopup alloy battery retainers with tape. I have also added 10 gms of lead to the battery and 10 grams of lead between the motor screws.
I use the front and rear cf shock towers with the front shocks on the standard lower arm mount and second outer top hole. The rear shocks are mounted in the standard mini mounting position. I did not like the amount of roll in my car using the MO6 studs for bottom shock placement. I run 1.5 degree rear toe and 1 degree front toe out. I use the standard plastic front top link to the c hub and upper inner mounting hole.
Shocks 56.5mm length, 350 weight oil, 3 hole piston, zero rebound. Red fluro spring front, yellow rear. I do not use the droop screws and make my mini trf shocks as per instructions, pno 54000.
I have my rx on rear motor side and esc on rear non motor side. Ride height I need to check, but car is low but does not drag the front or rear.
Hexes I run wider front than rear. My car does not traction roll and has reasonable corner speed. I use a Top oil gear diff with 300 000 weight oil. I also use a Blitz GTI MWB body or Protoform Socal or Blitz Audi R1or Blitz Honda Jazz or Ride BRZ. Depends what I feel like running on the day.
I do not change car setup for any of the bodies just the body retaining pin holders.
On the MO5 V2 the car seems to prefer harder rear springs and softer fronts.
I also have my tx settings as neg 25 on steering expo and only 85 % steering for the end points. My setup works for me, sometimes you need to alter someones setup to suit your driving style.
There are photos of my MO5 V2 in this thread.
Goodluck.
Calvin

AngryRog

iTrader: (20)

Not much experience with the MO5v2, but the above almost seems like a reasonable setup WITH glued sidewalls.

There is at least one local Mini Mafia member that has been dialed for months now with the v2 w/o the glued sidewalls and is very very fast with it. The setup is radically different than the norm. Experiment, it can be done.

OSherman

iTrader: (3)

Those mini-mafia guys are on another planet. I have to work hard to keep up with them..

coolair

Im waiting for my V2 to arrive, used to have a M05..
Will be putting the Tamiya black can race spec in it .. but most guys at the track are having heat problems on the motors on med/ low grip carpet..

Has anyone cut out any wholes over the mootor to cool it down?