295LikesTamiya mini cooper
12-11-2014 | 10:52 AM
I have the Porsche body and an M05, wheelbase is not an issue. I believe there would be no issue w/ the M03 ...my ONLY concern would be the front shocks towers being too tall on the M03?? ...for the HPI Cup Racer (which that Porsche body was made for) the front shocks are in a "lay-down" format to accommodate the lower front end of the Porsche body.
I can verify for you tonight ...going to a friend's house who has an M03 ..will bring my Porsche body and will give more details on fitment.
I can verify for you tonight ...going to a friend's house who has an M03 ..will bring my Porsche body and will give more details on fitment.
don't put the HPI Lancia Stratos on whatever you do! LOL so tight on the nose.
Bought a Cup Racer just for that sweet body!
12-11-2014 | 11:29 AM
When building the Tamiya 54000 dampers for an M06, how many O-rings or mm of spacers do you put inside the shock under the piston to limit down travel? Also, how many on the outside to limit up travel?
I know you need to use the longer piston rod for the rears, but the different instructions (M06 pro vs. M06R vs. 54000) seem to vary on travel limiters...
I know you need to use the longer piston rod for the rears, but the different instructions (M06 pro vs. M06R vs. 54000) seem to vary on travel limiters...
12-11-2014 | 12:31 PM
When building the Tamiya 54000 dampers for an M06, how many O-rings or mm of spacers do you put inside the shock under the piston to limit down travel? Also, how many on the outside to limit up travel?
I know you need to use the longer piston rod for the rears, but the different instructions (M06 pro vs. M06R vs. 54000) seem to vary on travel limiters...
I know you need to use the longer piston rod for the rears, but the different instructions (M06 pro vs. M06R vs. 54000) seem to vary on travel limiters...
Id recommend using hard washers or spacers, not the o-rings.
12-11-2014 | 01:09 PM
Okay problem!
In my main drivers M05 I had installed a Ball diff awhile ago that was working
great
However
During a recent race right at the hotlaps for the Main, he broke the Dogbone plastic piece that holds the Dogbone in the knuckle for the Ball Diff, basically destroying
the notched part on the ball diff.
Heres the problem, I don't remember which Ball Diff can go into the 05 without
Drilling out the chassis (which I didn't do)
Anyone have any suggestions for a replacement?
I think it may have been the TA03? or something like that!
Mike
In my main drivers M05 I had installed a Ball diff awhile ago that was working
great
However
During a recent race right at the hotlaps for the Main, he broke the Dogbone plastic piece that holds the Dogbone in the knuckle for the Ball Diff, basically destroying
the notched part on the ball diff.
Heres the problem, I don't remember which Ball Diff can go into the 05 without
Drilling out the chassis (which I didn't do)
Anyone have any suggestions for a replacement?
I think it may have been the TA03? or something like that!
Mike
12-11-2014 | 01:57 PM
Jordan I build my front and rear shock, make sure the shock is at full extension, and measure full outside to outside of the ball cups. Then put it on the chassis. Set your ride heights. Now decide whether you want 0/1/2/3mm of droop. I usually run 1mm droop. I then adjust my ride height again to be 1mm higher to simulate the droop height. I re measure the shock outside to outside, and that difference is what I need to install under the piston. Because you will require difference amounts of spacers front to back, its always a good idea to mark them with a sharpy. You only need to do this with ONE front and ONE rear shock.
Id recommend using hard washers or spacers, not the o-rings.
Id recommend using hard washers or spacers, not the o-rings.
12-11-2014 | 02:16 PM
Okay problem!
In my main drivers M05 I had installed a Ball diff awhile ago that was working
great
However
During a recent race right at the hotlaps for the Main, he broke the Dogbone plastic piece that holds the Dogbone in the knuckle for the Ball Diff, basically destroying
the notched part on the ball diff.
Heres the problem, I don't remember which Ball Diff can go into the 05 without
Drilling out the chassis (which I didn't do)
Anyone have any suggestions for a replacement?
I think it may have been the TA03? or something like that!
Mike
In my main drivers M05 I had installed a Ball diff awhile ago that was working
great
However
During a recent race right at the hotlaps for the Main, he broke the Dogbone plastic piece that holds the Dogbone in the knuckle for the Ball Diff, basically destroying
the notched part on the ball diff.
Heres the problem, I don't remember which Ball Diff can go into the 05 without
Drilling out the chassis (which I didn't do)
Anyone have any suggestions for a replacement?
I think it may have been the TA03? or something like that!
Mike
12-11-2014 | 03:55 PM
Thanks for the info
Im kicking myself for forgetting which one we put in there
Now hopefully Tamiya will get off their butts and release the 15' schedule for
the TCS and I can have this fixed before then!
Thanks again
12-12-2014 | 03:14 AM
Tech Regular
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 253
From: Newtownforbes, Ireland
On our carpet I use the Spice123 molded insert with the M-Grip or S-Grip tyre.
If i need more rear end grip I'll use the Kawada TUM41S insert.
I glue the sidewalls of the front tyres only.
Hope this helps.
If i need more rear end grip I'll use the Kawada TUM41S insert.
I glue the sidewalls of the front tyres only.
Hope this helps.
12-12-2014 | 06:24 AM
In the USVTA forum, rcpaintinpete posted up this little contraption this morning, a rev limiter from GForce:
http://www.redrc.net/2014/12/gforce-...d-controllers/
If it works, would a lot of clubs take to this device? Would TCS?
http://www.redrc.net/2014/12/gforce-...d-controllers/
Coming soon from GForce is the Rev Limiter module to limit the maximum RPM of electric brushless motors. Looped between the motor, controller and receiver the device limits the maximum RPM of sensored brushless motors in four steps between 10,000 and 17,000 RPM. Micro switches and status LEDs help to check the setting, making the module ideal to equalise the performance of brushless motors for entry level and stock racing classes. The 2S LiPo-compatible Rev Limiter comes in a lightweight case, it measures 22x15x10mm and comes pre-wired with universal connectors and including a sensor wire.
If it works, would a lot of clubs take to this device? Would TCS?
12-12-2014 | 09:23 AM
Ahh aint that the honest truth of ALL spec racing. You have to get used to the noise from the complainer camp lol. They will complain no matter what. You change the rules for them, they find the next excuse. Sad really. Best to just go with a formula that works, stick to it, keep costs as low as feasible and pretend to listen to the complainers.