The AE FActory Team B44.2 Thread
10-06-2014 | 07:39 AM
#8116
Tech Regular
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 261
From: London UK
I race once a week, and rebuild when the ball diff gets a bit notchy say about every 2-3 months or so. Build it fairly tight, break it is properly and you should be fine.
10-06-2014 | 07:53 AM
#8117
Tech Regular
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 261
From: London UK
The B44 I ordered was supposed to be a B44.1 so I asked for a refund even though I new the listing said no refunds. The guy offered me $20 to go towards parts so that I can use the B44.2 chassis and said he was told that's what it was. I know, not my problem. He has 100% feedback and answered all my pre-sale questions right away so I want to give him the benefit of the doubt. But at the same time I want more than $20! So I have some choices to choose from (in no particular order):
A: Sell the B44 complete chassis with spare parts. Sell the B44.2 bare chassis with a few spare parts. Then buy what I want.
B: Sell the B44. Keep the 44.2 chassis and buy all the parts I need to complete it.
C: Take as much off the B44 chassis as I can and move it over to the 44.2 chassis then sell what I can't use.
A seems a little risky since I may not make enough to buy what I want. B seems like it may be too much trouble to find and buy all the parts I need. And C would get me a running car sooner. Either way, I feel like I should try to get as much from this guy as I can. I know it's a little heavy for a Monday. Sorry about that!
A: Sell the B44 complete chassis with spare parts. Sell the B44.2 bare chassis with a few spare parts. Then buy what I want.
B: Sell the B44. Keep the 44.2 chassis and buy all the parts I need to complete it.
C: Take as much off the B44 chassis as I can and move it over to the 44.2 chassis then sell what I can't use.
A seems a little risky since I may not make enough to buy what I want. B seems like it may be too much trouble to find and buy all the parts I need. And C would get me a running car sooner. Either way, I feel like I should try to get as much from this guy as I can. I know it's a little heavy for a Monday. Sorry about that!
If you are just messing about, take the money offered, sell the B44.2 bits and drive the B44, still a good car to learn and bash with.
If you get the bug and want to upgrade, sell the B44 as a rolling chassis and buy a full spec B44.2 second hand.
10-06-2014 | 11:30 AM
#8118
Tech Rookie
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 14
From: Indiana
A fair bit of work and expense getting it to B44.2 spec and there will be a ton of good one's for sale with the new B44.3 available in the next week or so.
If you are just messing about, take the money offered, sell the B44.2 bits and drive the B44, still a good car to learn and bash with.
If you get the bug and want to upgrade, sell the B44 as a rolling chassis and buy a full spec B44.2 second hand.
If you are just messing about, take the money offered, sell the B44.2 bits and drive the B44, still a good car to learn and bash with.
If you get the bug and want to upgrade, sell the B44 as a rolling chassis and buy a full spec B44.2 second hand.
I am probably going to sell everything and then look for either a 44.1 or a 44.2 in good shape. So you could say I have the bug now. Ha.
Thanks for all the great advice!
10-09-2014 | 11:36 PM
#8120
Tech Fanatic
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 854
From: N. Cali
Hey guys, I just finished building my 44.2. Just need to get my electronics in there now and I'm good to go. However, as I am playing around with the car - turning the rear tires, I've noticed that the rear CVAs want to pull my rear tires up as I'm turning them. Not sure how to describe it but it doesn't want to turn if the tires are drooped down at an angle. So if I turn the rear tires, the entire arm and tire will rise to parallel with the ground and it the turn goes thru. My fronts aren't like this. Did I do something wrong with the CVA assembly?
Thanks.
Thanks.
10-10-2014 | 07:36 AM
#8122
Tech Fanatic
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 854
From: N. Cali
I would think that the car ought to be able to turn freely even with the shocks at full travel (i.e., what happens if the car is jumping in teh air) - with out them CVAs binding? Please help?
G
10-10-2014 | 07:57 AM
#8123
10-10-2014 | 08:06 AM
#8124
Umm, i don't think I have my rear shocks set too tight. Yes my rear CVA's are binding in the cup (at full droop ||/--\||) and in order to unbind itself, lifts my rear arms/tires up.
I would think that the car ought to be able to turn freely even with the shocks at full travel (i.e., what happens if the car is jumping in teh air) - with out them CVAs binding? Please help?
G
I would think that the car ought to be able to turn freely even with the shocks at full travel (i.e., what happens if the car is jumping in teh air) - with out them CVAs binding? Please help?
G
10-10-2014 | 08:13 AM
#8125
Tech Fanatic
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 854
From: N. Cali
Make sure you have 1 to 2 limiters in the rear and that your stroke is 27mm and make sure you have 3 axle shims between the axle and the inside of the hub and check your diff shimming and if you are running it with saddles make sure there is 6 shims on the right and 3 on the left. other than that I am stumped as well.
I don't recall the instruction covering shock limiters? Where do they go...
G
10-10-2014 | 08:25 AM
#8126
That is most likely the issue. Little plastic washers that go inside the shocks under the piston.
10-10-2014 | 08:34 AM
#8127
Tech Fanatic
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 854
From: N. Cali
I measured my shock shaft travel, it's at 27mm (from the bottom shock cap to say the top of the spring cup). I do have one nylon spacer (.030 - 4187) under the piston. Visually, the CVA's at full droop sits at around 1 mm from the edge of the cup so it's not like it's about the pop out. But for some reason, when I run the tires, the CVA's wanna bind in teh cup (on both sides) and thus lifting my arms up to unbind itself. Weird, I've never had this type of problems before with my previous cars - granted I've been out of the hobby for a LONG time.
G
10-10-2014 | 08:44 AM
#8128
Do you have the stock setup shock mount locations? If not, that can vary the amount of spacers needed.
I can't remember if the manual says 1 or 2 in the rear but I think its 2.
If that's the case, you are pulling the shocks apart to add the 2nd spacer.
Those shocks are made for the stadium truck and sct too so they are a little too long for the buggy without proper travel restriction.
I can't remember if the manual says 1 or 2 in the rear but I think its 2.
If that's the case, you are pulling the shocks apart to add the 2nd spacer.
Those shocks are made for the stadium truck and sct too so they are a little too long for the buggy without proper travel restriction.
10-10-2014 | 09:03 AM
#8130
Tech Fanatic
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 854
From: N. Cali
Do you have the stock setup shock mount locations? If not, that can vary the amount of spacers needed.
I can't remember if the manual says 1 or 2 in the rear but I think its 2.
If that's the case, you are pulling the shocks apart to add the 2nd spacer.
Those shocks are made for the stadium truck and sct too so they are a little too long for the buggy without proper travel restriction.
I can't remember if the manual says 1 or 2 in the rear but I think its 2.
If that's the case, you are pulling the shocks apart to add the 2nd spacer.
Those shocks are made for the stadium truck and sct too so they are a little too long for the buggy without proper travel restriction.
So now I just have to figure out what I did wrong with the CVAs. Not sure how I can mess up on it because the assembly is not that complex....
G
Last edited by loosenut; 10-10-2014 at 09:17 AM.