We run e-scale indoors on a high grip track in the winter as well. In fact, we run slicks because our traction is so high. Here are a few set-up tips you can try before having to throw money at springs and/or sway bars.

1. Lower ride height. When we go indoors on high grip, our ride heights tend to be 5-7mm lower than outdoors.

2. Reduce the droop front and rear. Again, high grip wants less droop to keep the car flatter on/off throttle.

3. In the absence of a having heavier springs handy, I will stand the rear shocks up more to make the rear a little stiffer and rotate more freely.

4. Add more anti-squat. On high grip tracks, you don't need the rear of the car to squat and make more traction. You're goal is to free the car up and allow it to rotate to avoid traction rolling.

5. We typically run heavier springs and sway bars. You have to experiment here, but for me I tend to run 1 - 2 sizes stiffer front and rear for both springs and sway bars.

Tires are a huge debate when we go indoors on high bite. Some people (like myself) want the tire with the most grip and then I'll use set-up on the car to tune out the extra grip I don't need. Other people will just go to a hard compound tire or different pin (if you're running pin) to generate a little less grip. If I were you and traction rolling, I'd be happy with the tires and start tuning the grip out of the car.

Lastly and probably most import is that my driving style changes quite a bit from outdoor to indoors. When I go indoors, I have to tell myself to slow down and be more precise. I try to drive smoother and tighter and resist the urge to grab a fist full of throttle to power through turns like I might do outdoors. Racing on high grip requires more control and finesse to be faster. For us when we go indoors there is no truer saying than slower is faster.

I use Panther Rattlers or Hb Beans. And stiff springs I think yellow front and purple rear.

A couple quick questions for your setup help.
1) is the indoor high grip: damp clay, dry hard pack, carpet, or something else?
2) how comfortable are you with the rear end loose vs being locked down but having to not traction roll?

We haven't gotten to The Factory to test just yet, but tested at Sparks Park this past saturday which I would say is a close in surface type. We started with here setup wise and went one step stiffer on the spring rate (Green / Blue). That should be a good ball park for The Factory. Also for tires we usually run clay or SS AKA wishbones or MC or M4 Proline Ions, but I haven't been to the factory since last winter.

Has anyone else had problems bending the rod ends on the rear shocks. I replaced them once and noticed they are bent like a hockey stick again. I'm pretty sure that it is from a big triple at one of the tracks that I run on where the landing is not quite right. Just seems like the second set bent pretty quickly.

I was running soft AKA handlebars. seemed to let the rear end slide a little but didn't quite have the forward traction that I was looking for.
I feel like I was trying to hard to keep up with the fast guys hitting the corners too fast and pushing through them, instead of just trying to get around the track smoothly.

I am a total noob at running indoor and honestly am a middle of the pack b-main driver.
don't care, i have fun!
My goal for when I go back here in a couple of weeks is to sort out my traction rolling issue. whether it be the car setup or my driving.

Anyone have a good setup for Thornhill?

When you traction roll...is it when you first turn into the corner, when you are in the middle of the corner, or as you pull the trigger to finish and exit the corner?
Do you have a setup sheet of how you have it set up right now? (Sorry if it was already stated someplace further back, it has been hectic for me lately.)

I dont race at thronhill but I will be doing a lot of testing this weekend at fear farm and I would say they are similar. I will try to post a setup this after this weekend.

I have not yet ran my Tekno cars at Thornhill yet, but I will be there for the RC Pro Series race, so if you need help, come see me.

In high bite you want to lower your rear roll center on the tower by raising the camber link in the rear. I find alot of the time, traction rolling happens from the rear. 15 degree hubs up front should also help. Bump up spring rate and oil from stock or go to the outside shock hole on the arms. I reduce anti squat to zero degrees. I add a little at a time untill i have good entry steering without being violent. Anti squat can really help or hurt you. More increases steering going into the corner as it quickly unloads the rear weight to the nose off power. Then on power, resists squat. This will plant the rear on power as the shocks do not absorb the weight that transfers to the rear. The weight simply drives the tires to the ground with more force and increases traction. On high bite, i normally end up between 0-1 degree of anti sqaut.

Do u happen to have a good setup for ss raceway?

I actually just raced there on sunday. Took 3rd in a crazy tough field. My car was really good. I will put together a setup sheet this week and post it here. Its a tough track with all the beams but its really a fun layout. Took 2nd in truggy. Almost won but my battery dumped in the last corner. They ran me with the nitro truggies. I just missed making it a straight 15 minutes. I knew i should not have done hot laps.lol

Forgot to mention, droop is HUGE adjustment in high bite.I reduce it front and rear but literally only have about 5-6mm of uptravel up front. It keeps weight from transfering back. Big adjustment right there.

Awesome, look forward to seeing your setup,I just can't seem to get it right for that track