I think the fronts are 10mm hex

So wanna re wire my B44.2. Can anyone post some picks on how they wired theirs? Thanks

http://www.petitrc.com/setup/associa.../bigpics/3.jpg

I have mine wired up pretty much just like this only with an Orion speedo. It has always worked well for me! Just make sure you wire it with a bit of slack so you can get your center slipper in and out easier for spur changes etc.

For people who hate pulling off ball cups (like me) just punch a hole through the ball cup like Lunsford has theirs stock so you can access it without prying the thing off.

From the petitrc -site you can many pictures of wiring setups for this (and bunch of other) cars. I'm not allowed to post direct links, but go to petitrc com => Setup sheet => B44.2 => Electronic setup

ran my b44.2 with the schelle chassis and shorty conversion last night for the 1st time,its been a while since i ran mod 4whl and man is this car nimble now,track was a little chopped out and the b44.2 would get tossed around compared to my buddies 22.4 which is an awesome car,i think a little more time it will be more dialed,diffently a good upgrade

Same here car was quicker and faster around corners. It also jumped better and landed better.

Jason

I asked this in the schelle forum but I can not get any help will someone please help me here:

Quote:
Originally Posted by dbowen
Hi I installed the b44.2 shorty conversion and I am having a problem with the cva bone on the right rear bottoming out to where I can barely compress the shock I did not have this issue before bc I ground down the bone and ran 27mm rear stroke no I am at 27.5 8 shims on the right diff and one on the left and I still am bottoming out can someone please help! Thanks
Can someone please help here I have got it to where it is somewhat drive able but it still isnt right. I am at 28mm rear shock stroke (which I really dont want), standard diff shimming of 6 on the right and 3 on the left to keep from tearing up ring gears, I took out 1 axle shim on the right rear and I also ground down my dog bone almost completely.

I have the conversion and everything is shimmed per the AE manual and having no issues so there is something majorly wrong here even before the conversion. Should not have to grind down the bone. Is the T-nut and screw fully seated? Check to make sure the diff rings are fully seated as well. Seems the diff is too wide or something is making too wide. Start with disassembling the diff and work your way out to the hubs. Take pics and post if you can.

I had no issues before the conversion is what I was saying I only ground down my dog bone bc I saw it on someone's setup sheet which I believe was Kurt's to get even more clearance. I have disassembled the car so many times it's not even funny and tried almost everything and still can't figure it out. So you just took your diffs and flipped them right same shims and everything? So your 6 shims on the left and 3 on the right?

Correct. I cannot for the life of me think what is wrong with yours.... Please post detailed pics of everything installed.

Ok thanks for you're help buddy I will try and get some pics posted. Also are you running 3 axles shims on the inside of the hub?

Yes.

Ok I finally figured out what was wrong with my car after it nearly drove me crazy. Associated gave me two different dog bones in the kit one is slightly longer than the other (which I am assuming is a b4 dog bone). I know this is true bc I haven't changed my dog bones since I bought it new and built it.

I have the Avid chassis and the Schelle chassis and shorty conversion. I have yet to run it as I bought it from a member of this thread. It is currently built with the stock chassis so is it recommended to run it as is (stock) or use the Schelle chassis and shorty conversion? This is My first foray with a 1/10 scale buggy as I'm coming from an 1/8 scale RC8.2e FT.