Tekno RC EB48 Thread
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Posts: 625
From: Atlanta, Ga
Personally I liked the LRC brace better based on feel alone. As for numbers iscream was correct using the brace maintains the ability to adjust your toe while running the pins in a LRC position. Also the LRC brace is only +1 degree of toe over stock .1 spec. Where the stock .2 brace is +1.5.
I did some extensive testing with the 6x1.5s last week. The key to them is to increase the shaft speed. You can achieve this by adding a progressive stroke to the shock by laying the shocks over. To get the full benefit of the package, I suggest using the outer upper hole on the arm and hole 2 or in on the tower.
What spring package do you recommend with the 6 x 1.5s for the eb48?
Thinking of going in 3rd position from outer on the tower front and rear too.
Oh, one other question, when you run the V1 style A-arms, how much of a mm difference do you need to account for on droop when you use the outer hole versus the new style a-arm outer holes?
measuring I thought it was about 3mm difference or so.
Thanks. the suspension action definitely was improved and I didn't have the worry of the nose down condition except on one spot that I think a stiffer spring my remedy. (was using Tekno greens, going yellows).
What spring package do you recommend with the 6 x 1.5s for the eb48?
Thinking of going in 3rd position from outer on the tower front and rear too.
Oh, one other question, when you run the V1 style A-arms, how much of a mm difference do you need to account for on droop when you use the outer hole versus the new style a-arm outer holes?
measuring I thought it was about 3mm difference or so.
What spring package do you recommend with the 6 x 1.5s for the eb48?
Thinking of going in 3rd position from outer on the tower front and rear too.
Oh, one other question, when you run the V1 style A-arms, how much of a mm difference do you need to account for on droop when you use the outer hole versus the new style a-arm outer holes?
measuring I thought it was about 3mm difference or so.
The positions sound good all around.
As for the droop, I measured the droop using the middle hole in the arm instead of using the bolt for consistency.
Good idea on the droop measurement!
In general what do you recommend as a rear droop setting to start with? I am doing 122mm with the V1 rears but measured at the bolt and outer a-arm position. basically what I thought was 119mm with new a-arms rear spot. But your idea makes better seense.
In general what do you recommend as a rear droop setting to start with? I am doing 122mm with the V1 rears but measured at the bolt and outer a-arm position. basically what I thought was 119mm with new a-arms rear spot. But your idea makes better seense.
Has anyone figured out how to keep the inner hinge pins from getting build up on them and by build up I mean crusted to the point the arms stop moving properly if you let it go too long? I have to clean these every couple races and by clean I mean break out the dremel tool and polish them to get the hardened crud off :P
I guess if you don't run on a treated track or where they water much you may not see the same build up but I'm guessing it's something in how the a-arms are manufactured as I've been racing on this track for years and never had this happen w/ any other make. Not complaining, as I'm more consistent and faster w/ eb48.2 than any other model.. just looking for some feedback on this.. I was debating small washers on each end or some grease or something to help keep some out of the space. BTW if your buggy is acting up a little I suggest checking them out. You don't need to take off the diff's to pull off the alum holder and pull the pins (which I do appreciate cleaning these so much lol)
I guess if you don't run on a treated track or where they water much you may not see the same build up but I'm guessing it's something in how the a-arms are manufactured as I've been racing on this track for years and never had this happen w/ any other make. Not complaining, as I'm more consistent and faster w/ eb48.2 than any other model.. just looking for some feedback on this.. I was debating small washers on each end or some grease or something to help keep some out of the space. BTW if your buggy is acting up a little I suggest checking them out. You don't need to take off the diff's to pull off the alum holder and pull the pins (which I do appreciate cleaning these so much lol)
Has anyone figured out how to keep the inner hinge pins from getting build up on them and by build up I mean crusted to the point the arms stop moving properly if you let it go too long? I have to clean these every couple races and by clean I mean break out the dremel tool and polish them to get the hardened crud off :P
I guess if you don't run on a treated track or where they water much you may not see the same build up but I'm guessing it's something in how the a-arms are manufactured as I've been racing on this track for years and never had this happen w/ any other make. Not complaining, as I'm more consistent and faster w/ eb48.2 than any other model.. just looking for some feedback on this.. I was debating small washers on each end or some grease or something to help keep some out of the space. BTW if your buggy is acting up a little I suggest checking them out. You don't need to take off the diff's to pull off the alum holder and pull the pins (which I do appreciate cleaning these so much lol)
I guess if you don't run on a treated track or where they water much you may not see the same build up but I'm guessing it's something in how the a-arms are manufactured as I've been racing on this track for years and never had this happen w/ any other make. Not complaining, as I'm more consistent and faster w/ eb48.2 than any other model.. just looking for some feedback on this.. I was debating small washers on each end or some grease or something to help keep some out of the space. BTW if your buggy is acting up a little I suggest checking them out. You don't need to take off the diff's to pull off the alum holder and pull the pins (which I do appreciate cleaning these so much lol)
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Has anyone figured out how to keep the inner hinge pins from getting build up on them and by build up I mean crusted to the point the arms stop moving properly if you let it go too long? I have to clean these every couple races and by clean I mean break out the dremel tool and polish them to get the hardened crud off :P
I guess if you don't run on a treated track or where they water much you may not see the same build up but I'm guessing it's something in how the a-arms are manufactured as I've been racing on this track for years and never had this happen w/ any other make. Not complaining, as I'm more consistent and faster w/ eb48.2 than any other model.. just looking for some feedback on this.. I was debating small washers on each end or some grease or something to help keep some out of the space. BTW if your buggy is acting up a little I suggest checking them out. You don't need to take off the diff's to pull off the alum holder and pull the pins (which I do appreciate cleaning these so much lol)
I guess if you don't run on a treated track or where they water much you may not see the same build up but I'm guessing it's something in how the a-arms are manufactured as I've been racing on this track for years and never had this happen w/ any other make. Not complaining, as I'm more consistent and faster w/ eb48.2 than any other model.. just looking for some feedback on this.. I was debating small washers on each end or some grease or something to help keep some out of the space. BTW if your buggy is acting up a little I suggest checking them out. You don't need to take off the diff's to pull off the alum holder and pull the pins (which I do appreciate cleaning these so much lol)
http://www.advantageracingproducts.c...?idproduct=223
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 3,595
From: Covington, La.
Has anyone figured out how to keep the inner hinge pins from getting build up on them and by build up I mean crusted to the point the arms stop moving properly if you let it go too long? I have to clean these every couple races and by clean I mean break out the dremel tool and polish them to get the hardened crud off :P
I guess if you don't run on a treated track or where they water much you may not see the same build up but I'm guessing it's something in how the a-arms are manufactured as I've been racing on this track for years and never had this happen w/ any other make. Not complaining, as I'm more consistent and faster w/ eb48.2 than any other model.. just looking for some feedback on this.. I was debating small washers on each end or some grease or something to help keep some out of the space. BTW if your buggy is acting up a little I suggest checking them out. You don't need to take off the diff's to pull off the alum holder and pull the pins (which I do appreciate cleaning these so much lol)
I guess if you don't run on a treated track or where they water much you may not see the same build up but I'm guessing it's something in how the a-arms are manufactured as I've been racing on this track for years and never had this happen w/ any other make. Not complaining, as I'm more consistent and faster w/ eb48.2 than any other model.. just looking for some feedback on this.. I was debating small washers on each end or some grease or something to help keep some out of the space. BTW if your buggy is acting up a little I suggest checking them out. You don't need to take off the diff's to pull off the alum holder and pull the pins (which I do appreciate cleaning these so much lol)
Yeah, I think some of it may be guys once they got the 10 minute designation kind of sourced their lipos to the length.
Back in the day there wasn't tons of options that didn't act like a big pig hanging on the vehicle. Usually have find a sweet spot with battery weight which to me seems to be in the 5000mah-ish range that I am liking but in the past before stuff really got going for RC I have used the 6000mah packs from PolyRC.
Back in the day there wasn't tons of options that didn't act like a big pig hanging on the vehicle. Usually have find a sweet spot with battery weight which to me seems to be in the 5000mah-ish range that I am liking but in the past before stuff really got going for RC I have used the 6000mah packs from PolyRC.



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