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Old 08-12-2014 | 05:26 AM
  #13126  
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Originally Posted by Madjake
What's the difference between the lrc brace ad the lrc inserts. I have the inserts do I need both
I believe both lower your roll center by the same amount but the brace allows you to change your rear toe while the pills do not.
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Old 08-12-2014 | 05:58 AM
  #13127  
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Originally Posted by Cain
anyone else here try 6 hole x 1.5mm pistons ?

tried these on my SCT410 this past weekend and it was the best the vehicle has ever felt. want to give the EB48 a try with these, assuming same principles apply.
I did some extensive testing with the 6x1.5s last week. The key to them is to increase the shaft speed. You can achieve this by adding a progressive stroke to the shock by laying the shocks over. To get the full benefit of the package, I suggest using the outer upper hole on the arm and hole 2 or in on the tower.

Originally Posted by Madjake
What's the difference between the lrc brace ad the lrc inserts. I have the inserts do I need both
Personally I liked the LRC brace better based on feel alone. As for numbers iscream was correct using the brace maintains the ability to adjust your toe while running the pins in a LRC position. Also the LRC brace is only +1 degree of toe over stock .1 spec. Where the stock .2 brace is +1.5.
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Old 08-12-2014 | 07:14 AM
  #13128  
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Originally Posted by cpt_RedBeard
I did some extensive testing with the 6x1.5s last week. The key to them is to increase the shaft speed. You can achieve this by adding a progressive stroke to the shock by laying the shocks over. To get the full benefit of the package, I suggest using the outer upper hole on the arm and hole 2 or in on the tower.
Thanks. the suspension action definitely was improved and I didn't have the worry of the nose down condition except on one spot that I think a stiffer spring my remedy. (was using Tekno greens, going yellows).

What spring package do you recommend with the 6 x 1.5s for the eb48?

Thinking of going in 3rd position from outer on the tower front and rear too.

Oh, one other question, when you run the V1 style A-arms, how much of a mm difference do you need to account for on droop when you use the outer hole versus the new style a-arm outer holes?

measuring I thought it was about 3mm difference or so.
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Old 08-12-2014 | 08:42 AM
  #13129  
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Originally Posted by Cain
Thanks. the suspension action definitely was improved and I didn't have the worry of the nose down condition except on one spot that I think a stiffer spring my remedy. (was using Tekno greens, going yellows).

What spring package do you recommend with the 6 x 1.5s for the eb48?

Thinking of going in 3rd position from outer on the tower front and rear too.

Oh, one other question, when you run the V1 style A-arms, how much of a mm difference do you need to account for on droop when you use the outer hole versus the new style a-arm outer holes?

measuring I thought it was about 3mm difference or so.
We were running pink up front and red in the rear still.

The positions sound good all around.

As for the droop, I measured the droop using the middle hole in the arm instead of using the bolt for consistency.
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Old 08-12-2014 | 08:48 AM
  #13130  
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Good idea on the droop measurement!

In general what do you recommend as a rear droop setting to start with? I am doing 122mm with the V1 rears but measured at the bolt and outer a-arm position. basically what I thought was 119mm with new a-arms rear spot. But your idea makes better seense.
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Old 08-12-2014 | 09:06 AM
  #13131  
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Has anyone figured out how to keep the inner hinge pins from getting build up on them and by build up I mean crusted to the point the arms stop moving properly if you let it go too long? I have to clean these every couple races and by clean I mean break out the dremel tool and polish them to get the hardened crud off :P

I guess if you don't run on a treated track or where they water much you may not see the same build up but I'm guessing it's something in how the a-arms are manufactured as I've been racing on this track for years and never had this happen w/ any other make. Not complaining, as I'm more consistent and faster w/ eb48.2 than any other model.. just looking for some feedback on this.. I was debating small washers on each end or some grease or something to help keep some out of the space. BTW if your buggy is acting up a little I suggest checking them out. You don't need to take off the diff's to pull off the alum holder and pull the pins (which I do appreciate cleaning these so much lol)
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Old 08-12-2014 | 09:16 AM
  #13132  
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Originally Posted by 8ight-e
Has anyone figured out how to keep the inner hinge pins from getting build up on them and by build up I mean crusted to the point the arms stop moving properly if you let it go too long? I have to clean these every couple races and by clean I mean break out the dremel tool and polish them to get the hardened crud off :P

I guess if you don't run on a treated track or where they water much you may not see the same build up but I'm guessing it's something in how the a-arms are manufactured as I've been racing on this track for years and never had this happen w/ any other make. Not complaining, as I'm more consistent and faster w/ eb48.2 than any other model.. just looking for some feedback on this.. I was debating small washers on each end or some grease or something to help keep some out of the space. BTW if your buggy is acting up a little I suggest checking them out. You don't need to take off the diff's to pull off the alum holder and pull the pins (which I do appreciate cleaning these so much lol)
I found a Teflon dry lube or a light smear of grease helpes, but fine clay dust always works its way in there. I usually clean that area more than any other on the car.
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Old 08-12-2014 | 10:36 AM
  #13133  
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Is there any other shock boots that fit and last longer? the stock one's are kinda carp.
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Old 08-12-2014 | 10:51 AM
  #13134  
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Originally Posted by 8ight-e
Has anyone figured out how to keep the inner hinge pins from getting build up on them and by build up I mean crusted to the point the arms stop moving properly if you let it go too long? I have to clean these every couple races and by clean I mean break out the dremel tool and polish them to get the hardened crud off :P

I guess if you don't run on a treated track or where they water much you may not see the same build up but I'm guessing it's something in how the a-arms are manufactured as I've been racing on this track for years and never had this happen w/ any other make. Not complaining, as I'm more consistent and faster w/ eb48.2 than any other model.. just looking for some feedback on this.. I was debating small washers on each end or some grease or something to help keep some out of the space. BTW if your buggy is acting up a little I suggest checking them out. You don't need to take off the diff's to pull off the alum holder and pull the pins (which I do appreciate cleaning these so much lol)
Advantage Racing Products has a nice hinge pin lube that works very well and cuts down on the amount of time you would have to clean the pins and re-lube them! Check it out:
http://www.advantageracingproducts.c...?idproduct=223
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Old 08-12-2014 | 10:57 AM
  #13135  
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Any body try the csi red pistons?
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Old 08-12-2014 | 11:06 AM
  #13136  
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Originally Posted by ebay007
Is there any other shock boots that fit and last longer? the stock one's are kinda carp.
If you cut about 5mm off the end of each boot and simply let it rest above the spring perch they will last far longer. More dirt will get inside, but it will prevent tearing.
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Old 08-12-2014 | 11:14 AM
  #13137  
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Originally Posted by 8ight-e
Has anyone figured out how to keep the inner hinge pins from getting build up on them and by build up I mean crusted to the point the arms stop moving properly if you let it go too long? I have to clean these every couple races and by clean I mean break out the dremel tool and polish them to get the hardened crud off :P

I guess if you don't run on a treated track or where they water much you may not see the same build up but I'm guessing it's something in how the a-arms are manufactured as I've been racing on this track for years and never had this happen w/ any other make. Not complaining, as I'm more consistent and faster w/ eb48.2 than any other model.. just looking for some feedback on this.. I was debating small washers on each end or some grease or something to help keep some out of the space. BTW if your buggy is acting up a little I suggest checking them out. You don't need to take off the diff's to pull off the alum holder and pull the pins (which I do appreciate cleaning these so much lol)
are you cleaning the inside of the arm out when you are polishing the inner hinge pins? If you aren't pick up some disposable masquera brushes and clean the arms as well if you don't have a arm reamer.
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Old 08-12-2014 | 11:42 AM
  #13138  
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I just ordered a 4mm Integy arm reamer off eBay yesterday. Got tired of borrowing.
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Old 08-12-2014 | 11:49 AM
  #13139  
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Originally Posted by Cain
Yeah, I think some of it may be guys once they got the 10 minute designation kind of sourced their lipos to the length.

Back in the day there wasn't tons of options that didn't act like a big pig hanging on the vehicle. Usually have find a sweet spot with battery weight which to me seems to be in the 5000mah-ish range that I am liking but in the past before stuff really got going for RC I have used the 6000mah packs from PolyRC.
So would you guys say that 5000mah such as the two SMC offer have been the sweet spot for weight? I just built my eb48, and have been more used to the eb48SL geometry and weight.
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Old 08-12-2014 | 11:52 AM
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I think 500g give or take is the sweet spot. 570g seems a bit heavy.
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