I think skills might have something to do with it but when you spend some time on it the TT02 is a competent chassis that brand snobs sneer at until they get dusted by one. Run mine in 17.5 blinky and it'll keep up with the 13.5 boys if I concentrate. Would still like to read your article though.

I do and I like them as they have proper threaded holes which tend to make them a little more suited to being regularly removed vs tapped screw holes.
Plus some have a small heat sink benefit.

Would the alloy not be better at coping with a very hot motor vs plastic?

Cheers,
Crouch

Do you mean the servo mounts or motor mount?

As for the alu motor mount i haven't used an alu motor mount cause it isn't needed.
It's better to use the plastic one with the plate that goes between motor mount and motor.
I wouldn't recommend the alu one without using the plate that goes between it.
When the alu motor mount is used and it gets to hot the heat will be past on to the plastic tub and could melt with more slop on the motor mount and this could distroy the gears.

As for the alu servo mounts i can recommend to use the RM-01 type servo mounts, they will bring the servo 3mm more forward and gives more space between motor and servo.
Can only be used with using a trunbuckle from servo to steering.

Hope this helps

has anyone opted for after market wheel hexes over the stock plastic wheel hexes? I find sometimes having to readjust the wheel hexes (after seeing wheel wobble from spinning it) as maybe the pin doesn't slot in well.. I don't think its due to a wheel imbalance as I've had times where there was minimal wobble from free spinning it.

Hey DJ,

I started with the stock brake-disc hexes, but found on the uni's I was using (the shorter broadtech / eagle ones) that the wheels would eventually fall off (wasn't enough thread coming through the lock nut).
I switched to some broadtech / eagle TT01 brake disc ones which seemed to be just a fraction thinner.
With my alloy rear knuckles there was some binding so I then switched to some TT02B hexes which seem to be working well.

Personally I don't like clamping hexes but that's only because I stripped a screw in one a while back.

Cheers,
Crouch

Hi Guys

Here is a guide to give the TT02 camber without those terrible thick aluminium arms

You can do it with all Tamiya Parts or buy a special little widget thingy

http://www.thercracer.com/2014/07/th...ar-camber.html

I've been reading your modifications and it suddenly came to my mind that the part you've especially made can be mad out of a tamiya part.
You could use the rocker nut from an IFS suspension with part nr 19808126.
The width of the damper stay is 7,3mm and the nut is 8,3mm, you could use a dremel to cut off 1mm or you could use some 0.5x5mm spacers.
One difference is that the rocker nut has got some thread in it, but it can be used for doing this modification.

I've also saw some time ago that there was a guy who fillped the A2 part and then you are able to use the upper camber mount from a TT01.
I haven't tried that cause i don't have the needed parts.

Excellent thinking Qatmix! Love this chassis for its tinker value!

I've been meaning to post up pics of my TT02 with the eagle plastic drift kit as both the front and rear use similar thinking for camber adjustment.

Will try and do it in the next few days.

Cheers,
Crouch

Here is my solution with the earlier mentioned rocker nut.
I did however used the longer ball connectors as the turnbuckle will have pore thread in them and it's a bit stronger.
I've also cut the A2 part holder to save some more weight.
My weight saving was up to 7gr.
Total weight of the car now is 1175gr, race ready.
Here are some pictures.

How much gain have you got from this mod? They look like ride street tires ..

Addicted2b - Looks cool Like the adaptation there, wait till you try it on the track, it really helps keep the rear in check

DJchow - As above, it helps keep your rear end more stable when cornering at speed.

Camo - I would love to see the pics of that, I am tempted to fit the 418 arms on my TT02 as I know how to do it, but it might stop it being anything like a TT02

Those tires are standard tamiya 26mm radial tires.

@Qatmix,

I will be testing the car within a few hours on a large outdoor track.
The car was already good but i do look forward to see how it handles with this mod.
Thx for the great idea.

I've been testing the car with the modifications and the rear traction did improve but i've also noticed that the rear hub has a lot more play and under acceleration the rear wobbles also a lot more then before.
I will look into it and i think i need to add an extra shim plate between the rear hub and suspension arm.
Overal i think it did improve the cars best lap at the track, my fastest time today was 1.5 seconds faster then the fastest guy last saterday with the same car, same motor and same FDR of 5.09.

Cool! I love seeing how far I can push this chassis

I have shimmed the lower hub in the arms, I get no wobble. I forgot to mention that.

Hi all,

I've been meaning to post up some pics and a mini build of my TT-02 drift conversion, using the Eagle Racing plastic drift kit.
However time is elusive so I thought i'd at least drop a handful of pics in with a few comments.

Although a 'drift' kit, i'm sure it could suit on-road use as well so hopefully you will find it interesting at least.

As Qatmix said though, i'm not sure if it still counts as a TT-02!?!? :-)

The Eagle Racing kit part number is TT02-14-PL and can be found on Broadtech here: http://www.broadtech.hk/eagleshop/sh...?id=TT02-14-PL
You can also get the same in alloy if that's your preference.

The kit is incredibly well spec'd with uni's, front and rear knuckles, front C-hubs, lower supension arms, ball bearings, locking wheel nuts, spacers, turnbuckles, mounting hardware, adjustable this and that's, etc. Even with EMS postage I think for what you get it's very well priced.
The obvious departures from the stock TT-02 core design elements are the use of C hubs and having turnbuckles for the upper suspension arms.



Here's some pics of the build.
Note the similarities to what Qatmix showed us earlier.
Also note that the A2 part that holds the stock upper suspension arm is not actually needed (I think I fitted it before I figured that out).







Only shot of the rear currently sorry...




These next shots also show the version 1 Eagle Alloy steering system.
You can't achieve the shown max steering angle without it binding in place - I have some high angle steering arms fitted since this pic.




My overall impressions of this kit are quite good - Fiddly (especially with the instructions in a different language!) but seems to be good quality, great value, lots of adjustability for wheelbase, and all the wheel angles you could want.

Sadly though I haven't done much testing - Not many places to drift in my local area.

If you have any specific questions on this kit please feel free to ask and i'll do my best to answer.

Cheers,
Crouch