ATG - thanks for the tips! i may get a set of 30-32 deg tires... just to compensate when the weather gets warmer.. Im still a casual racer so nothing serious (using a JDM body as the shell).

Keen to hear on your AW grease at the front... right now I will need to just try to push my car further through turns.

One problem I have I think is the front left suspension ball is a lot looser than the front right, and I think it's causing the left wheel to have more play.. and not helping with full throttling on the straight (but also my servo isn't centering 100% too ha!).

Maybe I'll fork out some loose change again for the low friction step screws...

Also what is everyone using as their universal drive shafts?

I'm currently running one side a jazrider universal and one side YR universal (had one from each set bust on me, either didn't threadlock grub screw,Jaz - busted on me after several laps possibly due to the excess droop and having too tall of a ride height). The YR shaft has now been threadlocked. Jazriders were sealed so you're not unable disassemble them.

Currently running a 9T motor for an indoor track. I know there are some brands that offer universals with a thinner shaft but you'd need to couple it with a smaller drive cup. Would the only advantage of these would be its lighter weight but then at the same time not be as strong, having a narrower shaft?

Has anyone used the Tamiya universals?
#53792 http://www.tamiyausa.com/items/radio...assembly-53792

The YeahRacing shaft is of the same design which I'd think be ok as long as I loctite the grub screw?

GPM also make a set but of a different design..

http://www.asiatees.com/display?Tami...id=61349&pid=1

I've been using the tamiya universals for years now and never had any problem, i never use threadlock on the grubscrew and it holds perfectly.

Anyone running an aluminium servo mount? Is it worth it?

Nope, not really, although the blue does look pretty!

As a side note, my raced prepped TT02 managed to win the A-final today against Xrays, Hot bodies etc

3 seconds clear gap!

The full write up for the car will done soon.

I think skills might have something to do with it but when you spend some time on it the TT02 is a competent chassis that brand snobs sneer at until they get dusted by one. Run mine in 17.5 blinky and it'll keep up with the 13.5 boys if I concentrate. Would still like to read your article though.

I do and I like them as they have proper threaded holes which tend to make them a little more suited to being regularly removed vs tapped screw holes.
Plus some have a small heat sink benefit.

Would the alloy not be better at coping with a very hot motor vs plastic?

Cheers,
Crouch

Do you mean the servo mounts or motor mount?

As for the alu motor mount i haven't used an alu motor mount cause it isn't needed.
It's better to use the plastic one with the plate that goes between motor mount and motor.
I wouldn't recommend the alu one without using the plate that goes between it.
When the alu motor mount is used and it gets to hot the heat will be past on to the plastic tub and could melt with more slop on the motor mount and this could distroy the gears.

As for the alu servo mounts i can recommend to use the RM-01 type servo mounts, they will bring the servo 3mm more forward and gives more space between motor and servo.
Can only be used with using a trunbuckle from servo to steering.

Hope this helps

has anyone opted for after market wheel hexes over the stock plastic wheel hexes? I find sometimes having to readjust the wheel hexes (after seeing wheel wobble from spinning it) as maybe the pin doesn't slot in well.. I don't think its due to a wheel imbalance as I've had times where there was minimal wobble from free spinning it.

Hey DJ,

I started with the stock brake-disc hexes, but found on the uni's I was using (the shorter broadtech / eagle ones) that the wheels would eventually fall off (wasn't enough thread coming through the lock nut).
I switched to some broadtech / eagle TT01 brake disc ones which seemed to be just a fraction thinner.
With my alloy rear knuckles there was some binding so I then switched to some TT02B hexes which seem to be working well.

Personally I don't like clamping hexes but that's only because I stripped a screw in one a while back.

Cheers,
Crouch

Hi Guys

Here is a guide to give the TT02 camber without those terrible thick aluminium arms

You can do it with all Tamiya Parts or buy a special little widget thingy

http://www.thercracer.com/2014/07/th...ar-camber.html

I've been reading your modifications and it suddenly came to my mind that the part you've especially made can be mad out of a tamiya part.
You could use the rocker nut from an IFS suspension with part nr 19808126.
The width of the damper stay is 7,3mm and the nut is 8,3mm, you could use a dremel to cut off 1mm or you could use some 0.5x5mm spacers.
One difference is that the rocker nut has got some thread in it, but it can be used for doing this modification.

I've also saw some time ago that there was a guy who fillped the A2 part and then you are able to use the upper camber mount from a TT01.
I haven't tried that cause i don't have the needed parts.

Excellent thinking Qatmix! Love this chassis for its tinker value!

I've been meaning to post up pics of my TT02 with the eagle plastic drift kit as both the front and rear use similar thinking for camber adjustment.

Will try and do it in the next few days.

Cheers,
Crouch

Here is my solution with the earlier mentioned rocker nut.
I did however used the longer ball connectors as the turnbuckle will have pore thread in them and it's a bit stronger.
I've also cut the A2 part holder to save some more weight.
My weight saving was up to 7gr.
Total weight of the car now is 1175gr, race ready.
Here are some pictures.

How much gain have you got from this mod? They look like ride street tires ..